Batteries not charging??

[BryanValRox]

Yes, at the bottom of the phone app. I will get one with the system on solar, but I would have to pull the RV somewhere and hook up to get 50amp.

Dewey, the DC LOAD you are referencing is a feature of the controller that powers “A DEVICE” directly from the Solar Controller. It is switchable on and off via the actual controller as well from within the Phone app. Via the BT1 module. I noticed in one of your previous pictures of the controller that the display was showing the feature was activated and being powered.
So, if you look at the connections of your controller you should see the Two Solar Terminals, Two Battery Terminals and the Two Load terminals. So if you have wires attached to the Load terminals, something is being powered directly from the Solar Controller. It could be anything within the output rating of the circuit. On our coach, the load terminals are not used. Not saying anything is wrong with that, just explaining the feature.

Attached is the user’s manual link for your controller .

https://www.renogy.com/content/RNG-CTRL-RVR40/RVR203040-Manual.pdf

 

[BryanValRox]

Here is the screen shots on the Renogy app that I took at different days. Is that helpful?

Take a look at picture 4, your app shows 37 plus amps being outputted by the controller , so that doesn’t allow for much margin on a 40 amp fuse directly at the battery that all amperage has to flow thru.

 

[Dewey]

Dewey, approximately where are you located, it would sure be easier to just come and look if your anywhere close bye.

I am in Saluda, NC, about 30 miles from Asheville. It's a small town, no stop lights but a flashing caution light on each end of town. I have Googled for RV Solar Tech near me, but nothing really comes specific to solar.

 

[Dewey]

Take a look at picture 4, your app shows 37 plus amps being outputted by the controller , so that doesn’t allow for much margin on a 40 amp fuse directly at the battery that all amperage has to flow thru.

You know, I just noticed that when I was posting the pictures and I thought about that. But I have also read that 6-gauge wiring should be matched with a 40amp fuse. I also read that you could safely go up 20% so I put a 50amp fuse in. I thought I had resolved the issue, but it happened again this past weekend. So, do you think the controller is allowing too many amps to flow to the battery? If so, is that be something I can change in the controller settings?

 

[BryanValRox]

You know, I just noticed that when I was posting the pictures and I thought about that. But I have also read that 6-gauge wiring should be matched with a 40amp fuse. I also read that you could safely go up 20% so I put a 50amp fuse in. I thought I had resolved the issue, but it happened again this past weekend. So, do you think the controller is allowing too many amps to flow to the battery? If so, is that be something I can change in the controller settings?

No the issue is that you have 3 large gauge wires hooked to the 40 amp fuse. Hypothetically, if you had 3, 6 gauge wires each pulling 40 amps all landed on the same fuse you would need at least a a 120 amp fuse.

I am convinced your fuse is under sized, so a heavier fuse or reconfiguration would fix your issue. You need to fully understand the load on each circuit before any modifications are made.
You issue is NOT Solar specific, it is just a basic circuit capacity issue IMHO.

 

[Dewey]

No the issue is that you have 3 large gauge wires hooked to the 40 amp fuse. Hypothetically, if you had 3, 6 gauge wires each pulling 40 amps all landed on the same fuse you would need at least a a 120 amp fuse.

I am convinced your fuse is under sized, so a heavier fuse or reconfiguration would fix your issue. You need to fully understand the load on each circuit before any modifications are made.
You issue is NOT Solar specific, it is just a basic circuit capacity issue IMHO.fy

I ordered an amp meter to measure the currents, so hopefully I can identify the current coming from each individual wire. Still, I will have pull the RV somewhere to connect to 50amp service because that's when it occurs. I also ordered 3 individual 40amp resettable inline fuses. So, I could put one on each of the 3 big wire/cables and bypass the battery fuse. I really like Amazon. lol

 

[reactancexl]

after skimming over the thread, couple of comments. No need to worry about ruining your battery as being it is lithium it is protected by the BMS(Battery Monitoring Sytem) which is internal to the battery. To check if your output in amps you can use a clamp on ammeter (DC) to measure it. You may have to find someone who has one or you could buy one off of Amazon. thx

 

[rayep]

I see an Issue with the battery monitor however this is not the root casue of the issue. the battery monitor shows 12 Ah and 12% that would mean it is still set up for the 100Ah battery that was originally installed and not the new 280 Ah Battery. I will check my Battery termanail fuse when i get a chance to compare sizes. I agree that that size sounds low. I have the 2022 36v11.

Following up on my Fuse. I have 6 wires coming off the + positive post and there is no fuse on the post. All in all I have 180 Amps of fuse protection coming of of the battery post.

Wire 1- goes to a 3-50 amp resettable breakers in parallel. Breaker 1 feeds the leveling system, breaker 2 powers the slide motors and some other things like the fridge ETC..., Breaker 3 goes to the battery cutoff switch? and has some other items coming of it as well.

Wire 2 has a 30 amp in inline fuse and is marked Soler controller. Renogy 60 amp solar controller.

Wire 3 - Big black on goes to my generator for starting it

Wire 4 Unknown 8 gauge wire

Wire 5 small 12 gauge wire Unknown Could be coming form the converter panel to charg battery on shore power.

Wire 6 small 18 Guage goes to the wireless transmitter for battery monitoring.
Wire

 

[Dewey]

after skimming over the thread, couple of comments. No need to worry about ruining your battery as being it is lithium it is protected by the BMS(Battery Monitoring Sytem) which is internal to the battery. To check if your output in amps you can use a clamp on ammeter (DC) to measure it. You may have to find someone who has one or you could buy one off of Amazon. thx

 

[Dewey]

That is very interesting. I just assumed that Alliance builds the solar with the battery fuse, but I have never had a chance to look at any others. I have only had the Valor a couple of months. Do you have the "solar plus" package or just the regular solar? I ask because my Renogy controller is only 40amps. I read the "solar plus" has a 60amp controller, and you do have more 6- & 8-gauge wires coming from the battery although I do not have a generator. I am convinced after listening to BryanValRox that the fuse is undersized. I am definitely starting to understand more about the solar system, and I appreciate all the help. I ordered inline fuses and will probable just remove the battery fuse now that you say that yours does not have one. I will update here on the outcome when I put in the inline fuses.

 

[rayep]

That is very interesting. I just assumed that Alliance builds the solar with the battery fuse, but I have never had a chance to look at any others. I have only had the Valor a couple of months. Do you have the "solar plus" package or just the regular solar? I ask because my Renogy controller is only 40amps. I read the "solar plus" has a 60amp controller, and you do have more 6- & 8-gauge wires coming from the battery although I do not have a generator. I am convinced after listening to BryanValRox that the fuse is undersized. I am definitely starting to understand more about the solar system, and I appreciate all the help. I ordered inline fuses and will probable just remove the battery fuse now that you say that yours does not have one. I will update here on the outcome when I put in the inline fuses.

I have 2-320Watt soloar panels on the roof, the 60 Amp Renogy controler and a 100Ah battery. When not in use i have it parked at my hosue and plugged into a 50 Amp circuit.

 

[7426TRISS]

I am only 2 hours from you. From what I read into this, their is definitely a problem with something pulling to many amps/ not fused correctly. I can come to you tomorrow or Sunday. Let me know what works for you?

 

[BryanValRox]

I am only 2 hours from you. From what I read into this, their is definitely a problem with something pulling to many amps/ not fused correctly. I can come to you tomorrow or Sunday. Let me know what works for you?

7426TRISS,
What a generous offer!!!!!!!
Thanks for offering to help out locally(or at least semi locally)

 

[Oregon_Camper]

This man is a ROCK STAR!! I sure hope this works out and the problem is resolved. I see a few cold beers needed once this is done.

 

[Dewey]

I am only 2 hours from you. From what I read into this, their is definitely a problem with something pulling to many amps/ not fused correctly. I can come to you tomorrow or Sunday. Let me know what works for you?

Wow, that is an awesome offer, and I really appreciate it. But I do think if I bypass the battery fuse and put individual fuses on the 3 main wires that are connected it, then connect directly to the battery post that will solve the issue. The other thing is, I don't have access to 50amp service where I am, and that is when it occurs. Let me make that change, and I have a 5-day camping trip with the RV in mid-June. If the issue is not resolved I can possibly pull the trailer to you, and have you trouble shoot it. Does that sound reasonable to you?

 

[Dewey]

7426TRISS,
What a generous offer!!!!!!!
Thanks for offering to help out locally(or at least semi locally)

That is awesome for sure. But I think you are right about too much current feeding into the single 40-50amp fuse. If I make the change that I mentioned, and it does not resolve the problem then I will make a trip to him and work on it.

 

[Dewey]

I have 2-320Watt soloar panels on the roof, the 60 Amp Renogy controler and a 100Ah battery. When not in use i have it parked at my hosue and plugged into a 50 Amp circuit.

That is what I have except mine is a 40amp controller. Which, is what they put in a 37V13 at Alliance.

 

[BryanValRox]

That is very interesting. I just assumed that Alliance builds the solar with the battery fuse, but I have never had a chance to look at any others. I have only had the Valor a couple of months. Do you have the "solar plus" package or just the regular solar? I ask because my Renogy controller is only 40amps. I read the "solar plus" has a 60amp controller, and you do have more 6- & 8-gauge wires coming from the battery although I do not have a generator. I am convinced after listening to BryanValRox that the fuse is undersized. I am definitely starting to understand more about the solar system, and I appreciate all the help. I ordered inline fuses and will probable just remove the battery fuse now that you say that yours does not have one. I will update here on the outcome when I put in the inline fuses.

Hey Dewey, just wondering if you have resolved your problem?