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Batteries not charging??

Lantley

Well-known member
Is it happening when converter and solar are both sending current to the battery?
As a test can you unplug the converter or turn off the breaker (A/C power to converter) and see if the fuse still blows?
 

Dewey

Active member
Hey there, we're you able to resolve your charging issue?
Was the issue caused by blown fuses?
If so, where are the fuses located and what amperage and type of fuses are they?
I'm experiencing the same issue with my 2022 Alliance Valor with the Solar package.

Thanks
- Sully
I have not resolved the issue, but I will keep you posted.
 

Oregon_Camper

Forum Admin
Staff member
Ha!! What garbage advice from a moderator no less. Not everyone is a Victron fan boy! This person reached out to the forums in hope that they could come up with a viable solution to their problem. It's a NEW Valor that isn't working correctly. Let's hope that someone on here has some knowledge that they can find useful in troubleshooting their problem and get them fixed up without having to go back to the dealer.

Tearing the system out that was installed by the manufacturer and starting over is just plain worthless advice!
Glad you have such a positive way to provide feedback. The RV is a 2022 (not new), the fuse was blown and replaced. It isn’t clear if the replacement came from Alliance or not...or if it was the same. The Li Time 280Ah battery has a max 200A continuous charge/discharge...well beyond a 40 amp (shared) fuse. Yea, I am a Victron fan boy and have a lot of background on solar setups. I even started a Facebook group (now with over 64k members) to continue my interest in this technology, but you’re right, I don’t know what I’m talking about.

What are your credentials in this field?
 

Dewey

Active member
Is it happening when converter and solar are both sending current to the battery?
As a test can you unplug the converter or turn off the breaker (A/C power to converter) and see if the fuse still blows?
It does not blow the fuse, it evidently heats the wire that you see in the picture of the fuse, and it will turn gray but continues to have some current across the wire. Eventually, it will stop conducting, and everything 12v stops working. I hope that I have explained it, so it is understandable. When it happened this past weekend, I measured 14.4v across the fuse, but when I went to lower the front jacks to get off the truck it said "Battery Low" and would not lower the jacks.
 

Oregon_Camper

Forum Admin
Staff member
It does not blow the fuse, it evidently heats the wire that you see in the picture of the fuse, and it will turn gray but continues to have some current across the wire. Eventually, it will stop conducting, and everything 12v stops working. I hope that I have explained it, so it is understandable. When it happened this past weekend, I measured 14.4v across the fuse, but when I went to lower the front jacks to get off the truck it said "Battery Low" and would not lower the jacks.
Can you zoom out a bit on your photo's and show us the entire setup? Maybe 2-3 images? Love to see where those 3 wires head off to, coming off the 40 amp fuse.

The area where I have the red arrow pointing, is a 12v busbar with (most likley) self resetting fuses. My 340RL used to stop all the time when operating the leveling system. I finally replaced the fuse for the leveling system, with a 80 amp fuse and I have never had an issue since. I can't remember if mine said "low battery" or if it just stopped and I had to wait ~30 seconds for the fuse to self reset. It now looks like the 2nd image shown below

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Dewey

Active member
Can you zoom out a bit on your photo's and show us the entire setup? Maybe 2-3 images? Love to see where those 3 wires head off to, coming off the 40 amp fuse.

The area where I have the red arrow pointing, is a 12v busbar with (most likley) self resetting fuses. My 340RL used to stop all the time when operating the leveling system. I finally replaced the fuse for the leveling system, with a 80 amp fuse and I have never had an issue since. I can't remember if mine said "low battery" or if it just stopped and I had to wait ~30 seconds for the fuse to self reset. It now looks like the 2nd image shown below

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I got pictures. I was surprised that what I thought was the solar fuse, turned out to be connected to the hydraulic fuse. The 2 big red wires coming off the battery are 6 gauge, and the smaller one is 8 gauge going to the Renogy solar controller. It is working great for 4 days just on solar. This occurs when I connect to 50amp, but not right away. Might happen in 1 or 2 days.
 

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BryanValRox

Well-known member
I got pictures. I was surprised that what I thought was the solar fuse, turned out to be connected to the hydraulic fuse. The 2 big red wires coming off the battery are 6 gauge, and the smaller one is 8 gauge going to the Renogy solar controller. It is working great for 4 days just on solar. This occurs when I connect to 50amp, but not right away. Might happen in 1 or 2 days.
Ok,IMHO, you need to reconfigure the battery connection. Using simple math based on your buss bar ratings, it would appear that your battery fuse is way underside.
Based on your comments of “ It only happens when hooked to shore power” if appears that converter charging could be factoring in to your issue.

Would you be able to provide a picture of your battery monitor screen under normal use conditions? And another one while plugged in?

As a test, you could lift one of the fuse wires and relocate it directly to the battery terminal and retest, to prove the theory.

Of course this would only be temporary to help prove the theory.

In many cases(not my recommendation ), the buss feed wires are short runs and actually are not fuse protected from the factory.

You might consider fusing the wires individually.

But , with super solar, and inverter etc, trying to run everything thru a 40/50 amp fuse at the battery is going to continue to cause your grief.
Look up your inverter installation instruction on line and see what fuse rating they recommend in the 12 v supply, I think you will be surprised.

You might engage a RV Tech well versed in electrical systems to help you make changes if your aren’t comfortable working with electricity.

Fuses are intended to protect the wiring, so keep that in mind.
 

Dewey

Active member
Ok,IMHO, you need to reconfigure the battery connection. Using simple math based on your buss bar ratings, it would appear that your battery fuse is way underside.
Based on your comments of “ It only happens when hooked to shore power” if appears that converter charging could be factoring in to your issue.

Would you be able to provide a picture of your battery monitor screen under normal use conditions? And another one while plugged in?

As a test, you could lift one of the fuse wires and relocate it directly to the battery terminal and retest, to prove the theory.

Of course this would only be temporary to help prove the theory.

In many cases(not my recommendation ), the buss feed wires are short runs and actually are not fuse protected from the factory.
How would romoving
You might consider fusing the wires individually.

But , with super solar, and inverter etc, trying to run everything thru a 40/50 amp fuse at the battery is going to continue to cause your grief.
Look up your inverter installation instruction on line and see what fuse rating they recommend in the 12 v supply, I think you will be surprised.

You might engage a RV Tech well versed in electrical systems to help you make changes if your aren’t comfortable working with electricity.

Fuses are intended to protect the wiring, so keep that in mind.
I can get the controller screen with just solar as it sits now, but I don' have access to 50amp close to me. So, removing the box fuse and put individual fuses on each of the + wires/cables (6G & 8G) that are coming from the + post. That would be better?
 

BryanValRox

Well-known member
I can get the controller screen with just solar as it sits now, but I don' have access to 50amp close to me. So, removing the box fuse and put individual fuses on each of the + wires/cables (6G & 8G) that are coming from the + post. That would be better?
The picture would be great.
Individually fusing each circuit is an option and it could help you narrow down where the problem lies if your issue continues.
It would be important to understand the load on each circuit before selecting a fuse rating. This is where an amp meter is helpful to measure the load on each cable.

You battery monitor will tell you the collective load on the entire system. The picture would help folks here further understand your loads and offer assistance.
 

BryanValRox

Well-known member
Here is a link to the video I took scrolling through the Renogy settings while on solar, not connected to 50amp. I think that is what you are asking for.

Hey Dewey, thanks for the effort!
That picture is actually of the Solar Controller and is showing the current Charge voltage going to your battery.

I was actually looking for a picture of the Battery Monitor, previously you indicated that you had a display and a shunt installed in your system.

The shunt tells the display how much amperage is passing thru it .

I am trying to get a feel of how much amperage is flowing thru your system.
 

Dewey

Active member
Here is the screen shots on the Renogy app that I took at different days. Is that helpful?
 

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Dewey

Active member
I have this one, but I am pretty sure it was when the fuse was blown, and the battery was drained. It probably doesn't help you much. I can go to the RV and take a picture. I thought the Renogy app would give you more info that just what the monitor shows. I really think that "DC Load" is a reflection of the monitor in the coach, but I could be wrong for sure.
 

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BryanValRox

Well-known member
I have this one, but I am pretty sure it was when the fuse was blown, and the battery was drained. It probably doesn't help you much. I can go to the RV and take a picture. I thought the Renogy app would give you more info that just what the monitor shows. I really think that "DC Load" is a reflection of the monitor in the coach, but I could be wrong for sure.
Dewey, thanks but that isn't helpful.
A clear picture just like that one, but when the system is operating normally on solar only and another picture just like that when it is plugged in to 50 amp would be extremely helpful.

What exactly to you mean by “DC Load” is a reflection of the monitor in the coach? Are you talking about something on the phone app?
 

rayep

Active member
I have this one, but I am pretty sure it was when the fuse was blown, and the battery was drained. It probably doesn't help you much. I can go to the RV and take a picture. I thought the Renogy app would give you more info that just what the monitor shows. I really think that "DC Load" is a reflection of the monitor in the coach, but I could be wrong for sure.
I see an Issue with the battery monitor however this is not the root casue of the issue. the battery monitor shows 12 Ah and 12% that would mean it is still set up for the 100Ah battery that was originally installed and not the new 280 Ah Battery. I will check my Battery termanail fuse when i get a chance to compare sizes. I agree that that size sounds low. I have the 2022 36v11.
 

Dewey

Active member
Dewey, thanks but that isn't helpful.
A clear picture just like that one, but when the system is operating normally on solar only and another picture just like that when it is plugged in to 50 amp would be extremely helpful.

What exactly to you mean by “DC Load” is a reflection of the monitor in the coach? Are you talking about something on the phone app?
Yes, at the bottom of the phone app. I will get one with the system on solar, but I would have to pull the RV somewhere and hook up to get 50amp.
 

Dewey

Active member
I see an Issue with the battery monitor however this is not the root casue of the issue. the battery monitor shows 12 Ah and 12% that would mean it is still set up for the 100Ah battery that was originally installed and not the new 280 Ah Battery. I will check my Battery termanail fuse when i get a chance to compare sizes. I agree that that size sounds low. I have the 2022 36v11.
Yes, that was a picture of the monitor before I replaced it with the 280Ah battery. Let me know what size fuse you have because I think the equipment is the same.
 
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