Batteries not charging??

[Saltmarsh14]

New valor with solar plus package. Is It normal for the battery display inside the rig to continue to decrease in life% and volts while plugged into 50 amp service. It does seem to charge some from solar by day(parked under trees ) Not sure what to expect out of this rig. ( rvone in Albany was zero help at demo). The photo is of the display currently plugged into shore power.

 

[Saltmarsh14]

New valor with solar plus package. Is It normal for the battery display inside the rig to continue to decrease in life% and volts while plugged into 50 amp service. It does seem to charge some from solar by day(parked under trees ) Not sure what to expect out of this rig. ( rvone in Albany was zero help at demo). The photo is of the display currently plugged into shore power.

Next day

 

[dwcfish]

I had a similar problem when we picked up our rig. I discovered that at some point someone had connected the batteries backwards and blown the fuses that protect for this in the panel. The solar would go ahead and charge. When I tested the output of the converter it was charging but not getting to the batteries. This is how I discovered the blown fuses - 3 -. So you might look at the fuses.

 

[Saltmarsh14]

I had a similar problem when we picked up our rig. I discovered that at some point someone had connected the batteries backwards and blown the fuses that protect for this in the panel. The solar would go ahead and charge. When I tested the output of the converter it was charging but not getting to the batteries. This is how I discovered the blown fuses - 3 -. So you might look at the fuses.

Thanks . I’ll have a look. I reset it at the converter, and it charged back up in no time . But then does the same thing.

 

[drsullins32]

I had a similar problem when we picked up our rig. I discovered that at some point someone had connected the batteries backwards and blown the fuses that protect for this in the panel. The solar would go ahead and charge. When I tested the output of the converter it was charging but not getting to the batteries. This is how I discovered the blown fuses - 3 -. So you might look at the fuses.

This is currently happening with my Alliance Valor with the Solar package.
Where are the blown fuses located??

 

[drsullins32]

New valor with solar plus package. Is It normal for the battery display inside the rig to continue to decrease in life% and volts while plugged into 50 amp service. It does seem to charge some from solar by day(parked under trees ) Not sure what to expect out of this rig. ( rvone in Albany was zero help at demo). The photo is of the display currently plugged into shore power.

Hey there, we're you able to resolve your charging issue?
Was the issue caused by blown fuses?
If so, where are the fuses located and what amperage and type of fuses are they?
I'm experiencing the same issue with my 2022 Alliance Valor with the Solar package.

Thanks
- Sully

 

[Dewey]

I just saw this and I am having a similar issue. The 2022 Valor will sit for a weeks on solar and all words well. But, when I hook up to 50amp power it roasts the 40amp battery post fuse. I put in a 50amp battery post fuse and worked for a couple of trips but this weekend it blew the 50amp fuse. I don't feel comfortable putting a 60amp fuse. I am looking for a solution or assistance.

 

[BryanValRox]

I just saw this and I am having a similar issue. The 2022 Valor will sit for a weeks on solar and all words well. But, when I hook up to 50amp power it roasts the 40amp battery post fuse. I put in a 50amp battery post fuse and worked for a couple of trips but this weekend it blew the 50amp fuse. I don't feel comfortable putting a 60amp fuse. I am looking for a solution or assistance.

Any chance you could supply some more specifics? Have you observed a specific pattern? What is on? What is off? What are the components involved in your solar system? What circuit is the fuse you reference above protecting?

 

[Dewey]

Any chance you could supply some more specifics? Have you observed a specific pattern? What is on? What is off? What are the components involved in your solar system? What circuit is the fuse you reference above protecting?

Sure, I bought the RV in mid-April. It was sitting with just solar and all was good, just the frig was running. I hooked it up to 50amp briefly a couple of times to use the AC, and no issues. Then I came back and the battery was drained, monitor beeping. I am new to solar and tried to trouble shoot the problem but ended up calling Alliance. The guy said that he thinks I have a bad battery which is a Renogy 100Ah, so I bought the Li Time 280Ah battery. I put it in and that did not run my 12 volt system, nothing worked in the RV unless I plugged it in. Then in identified that the 40 amp buss fuse attached to the + battery post was burnt. Replaced that and everything worked as it should. With in a couple of days while setting up things inside the RV, I plugged into 50amp again. Then the next time I come back to the RV it is the same thing, nothing working and the 40amp fuse is burnt. I replaced it with a 50amp and on a camping trip it burnt the 50amp. I don't know if hooking up to 50amp is the problem or running the ACs is the issue but that is where the fuse is getting burnt. Just to note, the fuse does not burn through immediately. It turns gray probably due to the heat, and does conduct electricity across, but not enough to run the frig or anything else. The lights blink and the frig goes off and on in a cycle. Then eventually it will burn completely and then no 12 volt in the RV.

 

[Socal-Paul]

It sounds like you only have a problem after plugging into a 50 amp service. Do you have a charger that could be putting more amps than the fuse can handle into the battery? I would think a fuse on the +battery terminal would blow with voltage/amps flowing in either direction.

 

[Dewey]

It sounds like you only have a problem after plugging into a 50 amp service. Do you have a charger that could be putting more amps than the fuse can handle into the battery? I would think a fuse on the +battery terminal would blow with voltage/amps flowing in either direction.

It could be that the converter is charging the battery and the solar is charging at the same time. I would think that the Rover controller should limit that. I don't think it is battery output but battery charging that is causing the fuse to burn. I am not sure how to resolve that.

 

[BryanValRox]

Sure, I bought the RV in mid-April. It was sitting with just solar and all was good, just the frig was running. I hooked it up to 50amp briefly a couple of times to use the AC, and no issues. Then I came back and the battery was drained, monitor beeping. I am new to solar and tried to trouble shoot the problem but ended up calling Alliance. The guy said that he thinks I have a bad battery which is a Renogy 100Ah, so I bought the Li Time 280Ah battery. I put it in and that did not run my 12 volt system, nothing worked in the RV unless I plugged it in. Then in identified that the 40 amp buss fuse attached to the + battery post was burnt. Replaced that and everything worked as it should. With in a couple of days while setting up things inside the RV, I plugged into 50amp again. Then the next time I come back to the RV it is the same thing, nothing working and the 40amp fuse is burnt. I replaced it with a 50amp and on a camping trip it burnt the 50amp. I don't know if hooking up to 50amp is the problem or running the ACs is the issue but that is where the fuse is getting burnt. Just to note, the fuse does not burn through immediately. It turns gray probably due to the heat, and does conduct electricity across, but not enough to run the frig or anything else. The lights blink and the frig goes off and on in a cycle. Then eventually it will burn completely and then no 12 volt in the RV.

Sorry, more questions 😂
Do you have super solar?
Do you have an inverter?
Do you have a battery shunt/battery monitor?
Where does the cable coming off the blown fuse go?

If you have a battery monitor have you observed this display and documented you amperage?

I have to wonder about the rating? If this fuse feeds everything ( ie like buss bars) could it be under rated and your slide and leveling jack operation be affecting its reliability.

It is important to understand the entire circuit, pictures of your electrical system might be helpful as well.
Just trying to help, sorry for the 100 questions, but I hesitate to comment with any specifics without a better understanding of you system.

 

[JeffS]

That LiTime battery's recommended charge current is 56A but can take much more. Your converter could support the higher amperage, so I'd check the specs on it to see if it's higher than the fuse rating. Regardless, the fuse should be sized for the wiring, so it might be a more involved fix.

 

[Dewey]

Sorry, more questions 😂
Do you have super solar?
Do you have an inverter?
Do you have a battery shunt/battery monitor?
Where does the cable coming off the blown fuse go?

If you have a battery monitor have you observed this display and documented you amperage?

I have to wonder about the rating? If this fuse feeds everything ( ie like buss bars) could it be under rated and your slide and leveling jack operation be affecting its reliability.

It is important to understand the entire circuit, pictures of your electrical system might be helpful as well.
Just trying to help, sorry for the 100 questions, but I hesitate to comment with any specifics without a better understanding of you system.

Just the regular solar that comes on a 2022 Valor 37V13.

2- 320 Watt Solar Panels
40 Amp Charge Controller
100 Amp Hour Lithium Iron Phosphate Battery
Battery Monitor System
3,000-watt solar inverter
battery shunt with monitor
I have not really monitored the amperage because I don't know what it should be. Don't worry about asking questions, happy to supply answers. Everything that is 12v comes off the + battery post where the fuse is that keeps blowing. I added a picture. I have several screenshots of the battery monitor app but none while connecter to 50amp.

 

[Dewey]

That LiTime battery's recommended charge current is 56A but can take much more. Your converter could support the higher amperage, so I'd check the specs on it to see if it's higher than the fuse rating. Regardless, the fuse should be sized for the wiring, so it might be a more involved fix.

This problem started with the Renogy 100Ah battery. Alliance told me that he thought the battery was bad, so I bought the Li Time 280Ah and the problem continues. I had the Renogy battery tested, and it is good. I will keep it for my trolling motor.

 

[BryanValRox]

Just the regular solar that comes on a 2022 Valor 37V13.

2- 320 Watt Solar Panels
40 Amp Charge Controller
100 Amp Hour Lithium Iron Phosphate Battery
Battery Monitor System
3,000-watt solar inverter
battery shunt with monitor
I have not really monitored the amperage because I don't know what it should be. Don't worry about asking questions, happy to supply answers. Everything that is 12v comes off the + battery post where the fuse is that keeps blowing. I added a picture. I have several screenshots of the battery monitor app but none while connecter to 50amp.

Ok, here we go, more questions!
There are at least 3 wires connected to the fuse that I can see in the picture.
Can you confirm 3 is correct?
Can you trace each of those three wires and find where the other end is connected?

At the end of the day, some combination of load or charge rate is passing thru the fuse over time and causing it to blow.

It would be wise to reach out to Alliance Service and see if this is an original set up or not and what the recommended fuse size is for that location.

From 10,000 feet I would think that one of those wires would feed your leveling system and slide outs. Or a buss that in turns feeds your system. The leveling system alone requires a minimum of a 50 amp fuse. The installation instructions state 50-100, many are installing 80’s for colder weather use. To your comment that it doesn’t blow instantly is telling you it is high amp events over time and cycles.

Given that your system is basically trying to run everything (except the other wire in the picture) thru the fuse indicates to me (IMHO) that your fuse is likely undersized for your circuit design.

Once you trace each wire and understand what it is powering, you should use an amp meter to under stand what is being asked of each circuit.
After understanding that, and if this is an original design or not, next steps can determined.

Remember that fuses are really designed and speced to protect the wire/cable , so I find it a bit strange that all three cables appear to be running thru a single 50 fuse.

 

[Oregon_Camper]

Yikes...that 12v fuse is most likely way under fused for those 3 cables coming off of it. I would start all over and use a Victron Lynx Distribution. This will allow you to fuse EACH source with its own independent fuse vs one for everything.

 

[Todd F]

Yikes...that 12v fuse is most likely way under fused for those 3 cables coming off of it. I would start all over and use a Victron Lynx Distribution. This will allow you to fuse EACH source with its own independent fuse vs one for everything.

Ha!! What garbage advice from a moderator no less. Not everyone is a Victron fan boy! This person reached out to the forums in hope that they could come up with a viable solution to their problem. It's a NEW Valor that isn't working correctly. Let's hope that someone on here has some knowledge that they can find useful in troubleshooting their problem and get them fixed up without having to go back to the dealer.

Tearing the system out that was installed by the manufacturer and starting over is just plain worthless advice!

 

[Dewey]

Ok, here we go, more questions!
There are at least 3 wires connected to the fuse that I can see in the picture.
Can you confirm 3 is correct?
Can you trace each of those three wires and find where the other end is connected?

At the end of the day, some combination of load or charge rate is passing thru the fuse over time and causing it to blow.

It would be wise to reach out to Alliance Service and see if this is an original set up or not and what the recommended fuse size is for that location.

From 10,000 feet I would think that one of those wires would feed your leveling system and slide outs. Or a buss that in turns feeds your system. The leveling system alone requires a minimum of a 50 amp fuse. The installation instructions state 50-100, many are installing 80’s for colder weather use. To your comment that it doesn’t blow instantly is telling you it is high amp events over time and cycles.

Given that your system is basically trying to run everything (except the other wire in the picture) thru the fuse indicates to me (IMHO) that your fuse is likely undersized for your circuit design.

Once you trace each wire and understand what it is powering, you should use an amp meter to under stand what is being asked of each circuit.
After understanding that, and if this is an original design or not, next steps can determined.

Remember that fuses are really designed and speced to protect the wire/cable , so I find it a bit strange that all three cables appear to be running thru a single 50 fuse.

You are correct, there is 3 bigger gauge red wire/cables plus an 18guage red wire that probably goes to a monitor. One of the heavy gauge red goes to a buss bar that had separate 15 and 20amp fuses. I have looked in several places and, the Renogy 40amp controllers installed by Alliance have a 40amp battery fuse, and the Renogy 60amp systems have a 60amp fuse. I saw that is a couple of places but not from Alliance directly.
I will trace the wires but, it will be hard to identify where the spike or boost is coming from because I will be using the camper and thinking everything is ok. Then next thing I know the 12v system is not working. My system is all 12v except for the 3 AC's and the microwave I believe. So, if I am not plugged into shore power, I cannot operate anything

 

[Dewey]

It sounds like you only have a problem after plugging into a 50 amp service. Do you have a charger that could be putting more amps than the fuse can handle into the battery? I would think a fuse on the +battery terminal would blow with voltage/amps flowing in either direction.

Well, I think that it is possible that the inverter is sending too many amps, but not sure how to test for that. The issue does happen when I plug into 50amp power, but not right away.