Burnt Solar Wires / Wire Nuts - Solar Plus

[Shelly S]

So my solar plus package had stopped charging my batteries quite awhile back like June. I contacted Alliance and I have a Jim helping me not sure which Jim😃. Anyway weather permitting, life’s busy items blah blah I finally am able to pull the roof entrance to see what is what. I have already checked the panel output voltages,fuses etc. all the low hanging fruit as they say. So what I have found is pictured in these photos. I have been texting with Jim but have not got a response yet today. He may be off I don’t know BUT he always gets back to me, no complaint there. I just thought these photos would be good to share for others and to drive home the importance of not using wire nuts in this type of application. I feel we are very fortunate we did not have a fire. The wires are melted as far back as I can reach through the roof.

 

[Shelly S]

View attachment 1340View attachment 1341View attachment 1342View attachment 1343View attachment 1344View attachment 1345View attachment 1346View attachment 1347View attachment 1348View attachment 1341So my solar plus package had stopped charging my batteries quite awhile back like June. I contacted Alliance and I have a Jim helping me not sure which Jim😃. Anyway weather permitting, life’s busy items blah blah I finally am able to pull the roof entrance to see what is what. I have already checked the panel output voltages,fuses etc. all the low hanging fruit as they say. So what I have found is pictured in these photos. I have been texting with Jim but have not got a response yet today. He may be off I don’t know BUT he always gets back to me, no complaint there. I just thought these photos would be good to share for others and to drive home the importance of not using wire nuts in this type of application. I feel we are very fortunate we did not have a fire. The wires are melted as far back as I can reach through the roof.View attachment 1340View attachment 1342View attachment 1343View attachment 1343View attachment 1344View attachment 1345View attachment 1346View attachment 1347View attachment 1348

Sorry not sure why I have pictures twice.

 

[TJJ]

Wow is all I can say!Did the factory really use wire nuts?That is a huge mistake.Did you blow fuses? Glad you all are safe.Could have burned your trailer up .

 

[Shelly S]

The fuses did not blow

 

[Shelly S]

The fuses did not blow

And yes the factory used wire nuts.

 

[LuckyDog23]

My response to this was a long string of NSFW words (or anyone else LOL). I am so glad you aren’t injured pr worse! Keep us in the loop? Best of luck. 🙏🏻🤞🏻

 

[bhidalgo]

Yeah they do. Thankfully y’all are ok.
Pics from my 310FL a few months ago. While trying to find cable routing from roof - which I still have not found. I ended up using the wires to add a breaker to isolate panels.

 

[Shelly S]

Yeah they do. Thankfully y’all are ok.
Pics from my 310FL a few months ago. While trying to find cable routing from roof - which I still have not found. I ended up using the wires to add a breaker to isolate panels. View attachment 1353

Wire nuts are great for lots of applications but IMO not for a camper rolling down the road. Where mine was a butt splice would have been a much better option.

Where yours are located looks like they miss-judged the wire length. Definitely should not see wire nuts there either.

 

[TJJ]

Now I’m worried about the solar prewire in my 32rls.The cable up on the roof gland is 10 awg but transitions to 8 awg in the front compartment.I sure hope the didn’t use wire nuts for the splices!I guess I will be pulling wires.

 

[Shelly S]

Now I’m worried about the solar prewire in my 32rls.The cable up on the roof gland is 10 awg but transitions to 8 awg in the front compartment.I sure hope the didn’t use wire nuts for the splices!I guess I will be pulling wires.

you could remove the 6 screws and lap sealant on the roof gland and see if it is wire nuts. If it is you would be able to go to butt splices if you like ( I use marine ones that are crimp and soder). They make a water tight seal wherever you use them.
The wire on the roof is only about 18” long you could replace that 10gauge piece easy enough.

 

[Jim Beletti]

Hi @Shelly S - Sorry to see this happen to you. The Jim you're working with by text must be Jim Bonacci back in Elkhart. He's the solar guru at Alliance for sure.

Jim will give you good guidance here.

 

[Shelly S]

Hi @Shelly S - Sorry to see this happen to you. The Jim you're working with by text must be Jim Bonacci back in Elkhart. He's the solar guru at Alliance for sure.

Jim will give you good guidance here.

Thanks Jim. I sent an email as well to service, referenced the case number Jim gave me. They sent me a new case number to reference in the auto reply. Waiting to receive a call or email from them. I really need to get this into service in Elkhart asap. We are supposed to be in our winter location beginning Nov1. Wish me luck!

 

[Jim Beletti]

Thanks Jim. I sent an email as well to service, referenced the case number Jim gave me. They sent me a new case number to reference in the auto reply. Waiting to receive a call or email from them. I really need to get this into service in Elkhart asap. We are supposed to be in our winter location beginning Nov1. Wish me luck!

Factory Service would be ideal but it's my belief this can be taken care of by a competent service provider. Wishing you all the best on this.

 

[Shelly S]

Thanks Jim. I sent an email as well to service, referenced the case number Jim gave me. They sent me a new case number to reference in the auto reply. Waiting to receive a call or email from them. I really need to get this into service in Elkhart asap. We are supposed to be in our winter location beginning Nov1. Wish me luck!

UPDATE- Alliance service is already booked up through mid 2024. As you said Jim the recommended to find mobile tech who is knowledgeable in this area. Jim do you know the actual wire routing on a Valor 41V15?

 

[Jim Beletti]

@Shelly S - I do not know the wire routing with any certainty.

If you engage a mobile tech, and if you're within our warranty period, be sure the tech speaks with our service team to be sure they're on the same page in terms of method and cost and of course, so they may be able to tell them how the existing wiring is routed.

If it was my coach and I was out of warranty and doing the work myself, I would:
1. Disconnect that wiring at the solar charge controller
2. Cut clean, the wiring in the sealing, tape the ends and store it in the ceiling
3. Put the cable entry port back and seal it well with Dicor lap sealant
4. Run new 10 AWG wiring down the wiring chase (1.5" ABS pipe) from the roof and ultimately, to the location of the solar charge controller.

In my mind, that would be the easiest way for me.

That said - please follow our service team's lead in terms of direction for this repair.

 

[Shelly S]

@Shelly S - I do not know the wire routing with any certainty.

If you engage a mobile tech, and if you're within our warranty period, be sure the tech speaks with our service team to be sure they're on the same page in terms of method and cost and of course, so they may be able to tell them how the existing wiring is routed.

If it was my coach and I was out of warranty and doing the work myself, I would:
1. Disconnect that wiring at the solar charge controller
2. Cut clean, the wiring in the sealing, tape the ends and store it in the ceiling
3. Put the cable entry port back and seal it well with Dicor lap sealant
4. Run new 10 AWG wiring down the wiring chase (1.5" ABS pipe) from the roof and ultimately, to the location of the solar charge controller.

In my mind, that would be the easiest way for me.

That said - please follow our service team's lead in terms of direction for this repair.

Thank you Jim. Wise advice as always. Unfortunately I am told this is out of warranty however as a 1 time good faith effort they will cover some of the repair costs. I do like your suggestion of utilizing the 1-1/2” abs pipe.

 

[Jim Beletti]

Awesome to hear we are good-willing a portion of the repair cost.

Wishing you the best on this and be sure the tech works with us in advance of any work. Nobody likes surprises with dollar amounts attached to them and I'm sure you want to minimize your cost exposure as well.

 

[CornCrib]

If it was my coach and I was out of warranty and doing the work myself, I would:
1. Disconnect that wiring at the solar charge controller
2. Cut clean, the wiring in the sealing, tape the ends and store it in the ceiling
3. Put the cable entry port back and seal it well with Dicor lap sealant
4. Run new 10 AWG wiring down the wiring chase (1.5" ABS pipe) from the roof and ultimately, to the location of the solar charge controller.

In my mind, that would be the easiest way for me.

This is exactly what I did in my 32RLS. I abandoned the OEM roof penetration and switched to the PVC pipe roof access. That way, I know exactly how the wire is routed, and that all connections are sound. There is now just uninterrupted wire (no splices) running from the roof penetration box to the solar controller. It was not hard at all, and I'll sleep easier.

 

[Jim Beletti]

Nice work Paul.

 

[bhidalgo]

How did you patch the prewire roof penetration box/hole? Or did you?
I am going to follow your lead for running new cable from my roof. Too much time spent trying to figure out how our prewire is routed.
How much solar are you installing? What sized panels? Parallel or Series?

Thanks and good luck...