HarveyTheRV
Member
I have a 2021 310RL and would like to find out the wheel bearings and seal part numbers if possible to carry a spare set for our Alaska trip. Thanks in advance.
Wheel bearings and seal
- Thread starter HarveyTheRV
- Start date
Jim Beletti
Elite Member
Here's a link to Dexter's website with the bearing info: https://www.dexteraxle.com/results/69/bearings-seals?SortOrder=Default
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BryanValRox
Elite Member
Not sure, but do you have a removable cap on your decorative wheel hub. If you do, you could remove it and see if you see a rubber plug installed in the hub itself. If you do, remove the rubber plug to access the grease fitting and lube away!
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themaniam1
Member
Like BryanValRox said, pop the decorative center cap off. If you see the a rubber plug like in the pic, pop it out and use a grease gun and you are set.
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The instructions for the E Lube system..
E-Z Lube® Lubrication
First, you will need to remove the rubber plug from the end of the grease cap. Then place a standard manual grease gun onto the grease fitting located at the end of the spindle. Do not use pneumatic powered grease guns as these can inject grease too fast and force grease past the seal, or in rare cases dislodge the seal. You will want to make sure the grease gun nozzle is fully engaged on the fitting. While you rotate the hub, pump the grease slowly into the fitting. The old, displaced grease will begin to flow back out the cap around the grease gun nozzle. When the new clean grease begins to come out, remove the grease gun, wipe off any excess, and replace the rubber plug in the cap.
E-Z Lube® Lubrication
First, you will need to remove the rubber plug from the end of the grease cap. Then place a standard manual grease gun onto the grease fitting located at the end of the spindle. Do not use pneumatic powered grease guns as these can inject grease too fast and force grease past the seal, or in rare cases dislodge the seal. You will want to make sure the grease gun nozzle is fully engaged on the fitting. While you rotate the hub, pump the grease slowly into the fitting. The old, displaced grease will begin to flow back out the cap around the grease gun nozzle. When the new clean grease begins to come out, remove the grease gun, wipe off any excess, and replace the rubber plug in the cap.
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Meanjean73
Well-known member
I added grease to my 310 today. For those who lubed their hubs for the first time did it take a lot of grease? I used 2 tubes of grease total for both axles just to get grease to push out around the bearings. I wasn’t trying to flush out the grease, just get some grease to push out. I had the metal grease caps removed during this.
The factory must not add grease to the spindle zerk fittings, just pack the bearings and call it good?
The factory must not add grease to the spindle zerk fittings, just pack the bearings and call it good?
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BryanValRox
Elite Member
This was my experience with our 2024 310 RL as well.
With the EZ Lube System, it takes a lot of grease to fill the hub cavity between the bearings.
Remember, the grease will take the path of least resistance, so void spaces have to fill before it will push grease from the back bearing to the front(outside) bearing for you to see it come out.
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Yes, the factory install is to just pack the bearings ,which actually is good as it’s the bearings that need the grease to properly function. All of that extra grease pumped into the void space between the bearings is pretty much wasted aside from the little bit that oozes out at the front bearing during the pumping.
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George
Well-known member
Dexter D70 7,000 lb axles https://dexterindex.com/product/14634
Outer:
Bearing: Timken 14125A
Race: Timken 14276
Inner:
Bearing: Timken 25580
Race: Timken 25520
Seal: Dexter 010-036-00
The dust cap is Dexter part 021-043-01. It is 2.717 inches in diameter.
The rubber center plug is 085-001-00.
A kit with two caps and plugs is K71-319-00. The caps in those kits are chrome.
Outer:
Bearing: Timken 14125A
Race: Timken 14276
Inner:
Bearing: Timken 25580
Race: Timken 25520
Seal: Dexter 010-036-00
The dust cap is Dexter part 021-043-01. It is 2.717 inches in diameter.
The rubber center plug is 085-001-00.
A kit with two caps and plugs is K71-319-00. The caps in those kits are chrome.
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UFF
Well-known member
Well I am sorry and probably the odd man out on this subject. I recommend not ever using th Ez lube system. It is a good way to blow/unseat/burp your inner seal, hydraulic force. Ever use a manual bearing packer, the kind you have to push down with your hands? It takes a lot of force to push grease through the bearing. Now imagine that force on the back seal. I also glue/permetex my wheel seal, but ask yourself did the last tech. I believe it is there for a last resort/emergency.
Do your bearings once a year properly (clean, inspect, and pack) and you will always have peace of mind. I also recommend never mixing greases, are they compatible? Find a grease you like and only use that grease, for me it is red line cv2, I also know it is not on any approved list, but there is a lot of good greases to choose from.
Once again this is only my opinion.
Do your bearings once a year properly (clean, inspect, and pack) and you will always have peace of mind. I also recommend never mixing greases, are they compatible? Find a grease you like and only use that grease, for me it is red line cv2, I also know it is not on any approved list, but there is a lot of good greases to choose from.
Once again this is only my opinion.
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Creek Jenkins
Well-known member
I check my seals with an endoscope camera through the inspection hole in the backing plate. before and after greasing with a gun. They have not moved yet. I had to replace the seals on the camp side as they were leaking a bit of grease right from brand new. No problems since.
Cheers
Creek
Cheers
Creek
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I don’t understand the last part of your post, but the tire needs to be off the ground to add grease via the EZ Lube fitting on the end of the spindle, you have to rotate the tire while pumping in the grease.
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