Thermostat Dying?

[Whitewolf]

Having trouble with the thermostat that controls the Heat/AC. We're still in furnace mode on our way south to A/C mode. Problem is, when we have the thermo on Heat, the only way we can get it to operate is to turn it off, then cycle thru the settings until we get to heat again. It won't restart the furnace as needed anymore with out going thru the process. Any ideas or suggestions for a replacement? I don't want to spend a bunch of money on a replacement. Anyone know what the factory is installing these days?

 

[Terri&KevinGates]

We had a 2001 Jayco that we were having the same issue with. Heated fine but would not come back on unless we shut it off with the thermostat and turned it back on. AC had the same problem. Cooled fine but wouldn’t restart until it was turned off and back on. I replaced the thermostat and still had the same issue. It ended up being the control unit up inside the air conditioner. If you have the Coleman mach digital heat cool thermostat they are about $50 on amazon.

 

[Whitewolf]

Earlier the furnace kicked on by itself and I thought it had healed itself. Nope, I just got done cycling thru the settings to get it to fire up. Very interesting that your problem traced to the A/C for a problem with the furnace restarting. I was looking at thermostats on Amazon yesterday, but didn't order one yet. Looks like that'll be on my to do list for tomorrow. Thanks for the insight. Appreciate it.

 

[Oregon_Camper]

Not sure if this will work, but maybe? The controller that controls the heat might have the same connections on the back as the other 2 that don't control the heat. I am guessing you can swap them, but you'll just have to connect more wires to enable the heater. Take pictures before you disconnect wires.

 

[Terri&KevinGates]

Earlier the furnace kicked on by itself and I thought it had healed itself. Nope, I just got done cycling thru the settings to get it to fire up. Very interesting that your problem traced to the A/C for a problem with the furnace restarting. I was looking at thermostats on Amazon yesterday, but didn't order one yet. Looks like that'll be on my to do list for tomorrow. Thanks for the insight. Appreciate it.

The thermostat is wired to The AC controller which tells the furnace that you are calling for heat. If it ends up being the controller and not the thermostat Jims thought on swapping from one AC to another may work. Furnace just uses 2 strand bell wire to the circuit board.

 

[BryanValRox]

Not sure if this will work, but maybe? The controller that controls the heat might have the same connections on the back as the other 2 that don't control the heat. I am guessing you can swap them, but you'll just have to connect more wires to enable the heater. Take pictures before you disconnect wires.

Hi folks, regarding Jim’s suggestion to swap stats. It is unlikely to work as a permanent solution unless Alliance installed Heat/Cool style stats at each location. Coleman markets Cool Only and Heat/Cool Models. Not saying the AC “Call” circuit might not work for testing purposes on the heater (it’s just an open/ closed circuit , But the rise and fall logic might be different ). But in our coach, we definitely only have one heat/cool model and two cool only stats.

 

[BryanValRox]

Earlier the furnace kicked on by itself and I thought it had healed itself. Nope, I just got done cycling thru the settings to get it to fire up. Very interesting that your problem traced to the A/C for a problem with the furnace restarting. I was looking at thermostats on Amazon yesterday, but didn't order one yet. Looks like that'll be on my to do list for tomorrow. Thanks for the insight. Appreciate it.

Whitewolf, if you are handy with a multimeter, you could check the heater call circuit on your suspected stat.

 

[Terri&KevinGates]

Hi folks, regarding Jim’s suggestion to swap stats. It is unlikely to work as a permanent solution unless Alliance installed Heat/Cool style stats at each location. Coleman markets Cool Only and Heat/Cool Models. Not saying the AC “Call” circuit might not work for testing purposes on the heater (it’s just an open/ closed circuit , But the rise and fall logic might be different ). But in our coach, we definitely only have one heat/cool model and two cool only stats.

I believe he was talking about the controller not the thermostat. They may all be the same.

 

[Whitewolf]

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I carry a multimeter with us and I'll do some checking. Probably not until Jan1 tho. We're leaving southern Missouri on the second. Too many things on my list for tomorrow, final get-to-gethers with family and other errands.

We have the same set up with thermostats as Bryan. If I have to replace it, I'm thinking of going to this style over the original 3 button style.

Amazon.com

 

[bhidalgo]

We installed a MicroAir Easy Touch thermostat for each of our two rear AC's in our 310RL. The one connected to the heater has worked great so far. An option to consider.

 

[Whitewolf]

We installed a MicroAir Easy Touch thermostat for each of our two rear AC's in our 310RL. The one connected to the heater has worked great so far. An option to consider.

I looked at them, but I'm just not ready to spend that much. Yet.

 

[Whitewolf]

New development. Disclaimer!! This was happening before I took the thermostat off the wall and checked the voltage (which all checked out at 12V)
Once I cycle the thermostat to get it to start back up, the first time thru the furnace will run and raise the temp a deg or 2 then shut down. Cycle thru again and it runs until up to the selected temp setting.

 

[Whitewolf]

Problem solved. I ended up calling a mobile tech (Happy Campers RV Repair) and after a bunch of testing he figured out it was the gas valve. Installed a new on and we now have heat.
If your in the Memphis TN area and need a mobile tech. I highly recommend Chris Campbell the owner. Courteous and knowledgeable.

While he was here I told him about some noise I was getting from the Schwintek bedroom slide. I ran it in and it made a huge popping noise and stalled. He got it out and we looked at the rail. Shiney in places it's not supposed to be shiny. He's ordering parts and is going to rebuild and realign it. I don't believe it was installed correctly from the factory since I had noise from the beginning. Can't prove it now.

 

[ElkCreek]

Just got up to re-cycle the thermostat to restart heat. Been having the issue off and on for a couple weeks. On our 395ds it seems to work fine until we’re at/below 50% on the propane bottle.

Which valve proved to be the culprit?

I’ve been suspecting the regulator next to the driver side bottle.

 

[Whitewolf]

In our case it was the valve on the furnace itself. As we were diagnosing what the problem might be, I told him of problems last winter (we lived in the rv full time while working on the house), and he said he's seen a lot of problems with the door side regulator. They're not that expensive. Might want to try that.

 

[ElkCreek]

Thanks.

Did he have to pull the furnace to reach the valve, or did he replace it with it installed?

Thinking I might knock both out, just to eliminate the chances of working on it twice.

 

[Whitewolf]

He pulled the furnace out. Undid the gas line and unhooked a couple of wires. One screw holding it in.

 

[ElkCreek]

Thank you sir.

 

[Whitewolf]

Hope you get yours going and it doesn't cost what it did for us.

 

[Millerx5]

We have the same issue on our 2 week old ML23. We discovered the plumbing to the water heater was pinching the air vent and the furnace was shutting down on temp overheat.
If we ran the temp up 1 degree at a time, the furnace would shut off and restart on its own, but I got tired of a cold camper. The good news was the storage area was about 80 degrees!
My husband rerouted the water lines (on our 2 week old camper! and it helps but still has very low output.
We have been promised help at the Alliance Rally in Texas in May, but I don't have a good.feeling about this.
Regretting our purchase..