Ok..so I pulled my shower apart on my 2023 370FB. The attached pictures should tell the story of what I found. Hopefully this helps others consider whether or not they want or need to tackle a rebuild like I am. Since my rig is 3 years old, I would probably only get half price for it. No sense taking a haircut, to only get a new model with the same possible issues. The jury is still out whether we will see complaints on the Instant hot water heaters and full shower inserts. I am thinking those full inserts are going to be taking a lot of stress, based on the framing choices and technique I see here. Fixing the issues myself, will be much cheaper. Hats of to all of the DIY members!! I only have 3 hours into this so far. Now it is time to price out some options. I will share the costs, when I nail them down. Any ideas or thoughts will be appreciated.
Shower seat repair?
- Thread starter Gord&Cindy
- Start date
BryanValRox
Elite Member
RockDoc896,
Thank you for sharing your journey with photos. Inquiring minds want to know and this helps all of us sharpen our saw by actually visualizing how our coaches are assembled.
Project documentation like this is valuable for all of us DIY er ’s.
Thanks again!
Update to decisions of what I will use for shower install.
The contractor option and shipping a replacement from Alliance is just too expensive and a time delay.
I have picked this product from Lowes (Military discount). The panels can be cut to size and I can have them next week. They weigh only 92lbs.
I am going to use Go Board behind the panels and I will re-frame the walls. It comes in 1/4" thick, the panels are water proof, and the panels will stick to them. It is a light Hardy Board alternative. If my caulking fails, I will have the peace of mind that it isn't molding like their current plywood backing. I will see the water and simply re-apply caulking.
On the bedroom side, I will cut out the bottom 3" of mold, replace it with go board, and throw a piece of Base molding over it. If the problem is worse (I doubt it), then I will re-panel that side with a contrasting panel design.
So roughly speaking, I will be in it for $1,500 to $2,000. You can't get a contractor to show up for that.
I will also be trying out the Nautilus Retractable door system. Eliminating the glass offsets the panel weight added (Damn they are heavy and awkward to remove). Although weight is not an issue in how I have my rig setup. I will no longer have to make sure the wife clips the doors down correctly..LOL
The contractor option and shipping a replacement from Alliance is just too expensive and a time delay.
I have picked this product from Lowes (Military discount). The panels can be cut to size and I can have them next week. They weigh only 92lbs.
I am going to use Go Board behind the panels and I will re-frame the walls. It comes in 1/4" thick, the panels are water proof, and the panels will stick to them. It is a light Hardy Board alternative. If my caulking fails, I will have the peace of mind that it isn't molding like their current plywood backing. I will see the water and simply re-apply caulking.
On the bedroom side, I will cut out the bottom 3" of mold, replace it with go board, and throw a piece of Base molding over it. If the problem is worse (I doubt it), then I will re-panel that side with a contrasting panel design.
So roughly speaking, I will be in it for $1,500 to $2,000. You can't get a contractor to show up for that.
I will also be trying out the Nautilus Retractable door system. Eliminating the glass offsets the panel weight added (Damn they are heavy and awkward to remove). Although weight is not an issue in how I have my rig setup. I will no longer have to make sure the wife clips the doors down correctly..LOL
Here is the Drain/waste pipe type they use. It appears to be made especially for the RV industry. COEX ABS/PVC/ABS IPS DR24-PSI40 DW CP-737-FPS/CP-110P
Checked the web and it appears to be a MANUFACTURER specific product likely from Charlotte Pipe. The interesting spec to me, is the temp rating at 140 degrees. So boiling water could most certainly soften joint connections.
Checked the web and it appears to be a MANUFACTURER specific product likely from Charlotte Pipe. The interesting spec to me, is the temp rating at 140 degrees. So boiling water could most certainly soften joint connections.
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This is all super interesting stuff. I’m a nerd for stuff like this though!
I really wonder why they use this spec...and the specs are confusing. PSI40 means it can withstand 40 PSI of pressure but the spec sheet says 0 PSI. The temp rating is for continuous exposure not momentary exposure like dumping pasta water or something...not being a know it all...just trying to allay any concerns. Now pot after pot of boiling water, you might have an issue.
A very good point and thank god you are going deeper into how a spec is written and what it means. If this was really an issue, then more failures would be happening. Perhaps I was "Chicken Little" in pointing that out. Thanks for the push back! Really...I mean it...
Additional Data can be useful but sometimes it leads to over thinking things. I did not know the temperature rating of the ABS pipe.
Not sure I have ever wanted to or needed to know in 20+ years of camping. I have no intention of showering in boiling water.
But now that I know the ratings, I can ponder the possibilities! Classic over thinking!
Not sure I have ever wanted to or needed to know in 20+ years of camping. I have no intention of showering in boiling water.
But now that I know the ratings, I can ponder the possibilities! Classic over thinking!
Gosh, I hope I did not come across as pushing back in any kind of a negative way. Not my intention at all. Apologies if so. Not chicken little-ish at all, by the way.
Also a good point. As much as I embrace Occam’s razor (20 plus years as a detective solidified it for me), like I said, I’m a nerd on stuff like this and frigging love the minutiae! I have no idea why. We all have our “things” I guess.
BryanValRox
Elite Member
To quote Dragnet ……just the facts ma’am!😂
George
Well-known member
This documentation of the shower surround deserves to be in the "Resources" folder. Well done!
I woke up this morning thinking about the rolls of seaming tape I posted in the interior walls section. They have a 24" wide seam tape. I am guessing a guy like me, could create a 24" wide removable panel on the back side of the shower. I could use any 1/4" paneling. I am guessing that is why they have rolls of it at 24" wide.
I have since pulled off all the paneling to the bathroom door, but here is the MAJOR culprit to my leaking shower. I also had the leak at the shower control valve, but here is the MAJOR area. The pictures explain what I found. The bottom line, is that they should have never cut the lip on the pan and they should increased the shower wall insert, to a point outside of the shower doors. I would have known the silicone was leaking, BEFORE all the water damage could happen. It is a hidden point of failure in my opinion.
My plan on the bedroom side is to replace the 3 1/2 " with waterproof 1/4" Go Board and cover with a base trim.
I will have 1/4" go board on the entire shower sides and the shower paneling will cover the entire shower and toilet side to the door way.
About the seam tape: If you are noticing discoloration or a bit of yellowing on your walls, I am guessing the adhesive is the culprit. My best guess, is that it can bleed through the tape to the front side. Maybe it is heat? That is my best guess.
About the framing: Since the assembly crews have to hit the 1x3 framing, so much of the paneling I removed were lucky to get both sides of the staples to hit wood, if they hit it at all.
More pictures to come!
My plan on the bedroom side is to replace the 3 1/2 " with waterproof 1/4" Go Board and cover with a base trim.
I will have 1/4" go board on the entire shower sides and the shower paneling will cover the entire shower and toilet side to the door way.
About the seam tape: If you are noticing discoloration or a bit of yellowing on your walls, I am guessing the adhesive is the culprit. My best guess, is that it can bleed through the tape to the front side. Maybe it is heat? That is my best guess.
About the framing: Since the assembly crews have to hit the 1x3 framing, so much of the paneling I removed were lucky to get both sides of the staples to hit wood, if they hit it at all.
More pictures to come!
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If you ever have a mold issue...try this RMR from Amazon. It really works. It is supposed to kill mold at it's roots in porous materials, which is the problem with wood. Most mold removers will not do that. I put one more treatment on it after this picture, for a total of 4 times. I think I am good to go now.
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Midnight Rider
Prominent Member
Make sure it is good and dried out!
It looks even better today, once it dried out. That mold killer is a keeper!
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This made me laugh, as I rebuild my shower area. Just think Marketing....LOL https://x.com/bankertobuilder/status/1988622733152833797?s=20
Something I ran into concerning the 2 1/2" shower wall. The mixer valve had to sit back and a 2x4 or 2x6 could not be used as is normal in a house. I made a removable fixture unit, so if I ever need to replace it again, I can make access from the bedroom side and not tear out my shower panels. This also allows me to use any shower fixtures sold at a hardware store. I used 1/8" aluminum flat stock to mount them. Before anybody says anything...the Hot water on this mixer is made to be on the right side. Even fixture manufacturers are not following age old traditions in plumbing...
I also found where water was going sometimes...it was going into the vent behind the toilet in the 370FB. Now I know why the bathroom and closet area wasn't heating like it should. I moved my toilet water supply out from the wall. That is how I accidentally bumped the duct work and discovered it. It is behind the partition wall, so unless it filled all the way up, I would have never known!! The one floor vent in my RV and this happens..LOL
I also found where water was going sometimes...it was going into the vent behind the toilet in the 370FB. Now I know why the bathroom and closet area wasn't heating like it should. I moved my toilet water supply out from the wall. That is how I accidentally bumped the duct work and discovered it. It is behind the partition wall, so unless it filled all the way up, I would have never known!! The one floor vent in my RV and this happens..LOL
