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LP Generators and trailers

johnm

Active member
FYI -
Just a small heads up for those interested in using a dual fueled generator for boondocking. Something I didnt realize.
Be aware that they will not run directly off the trailer's LP outlet - or at least mine wont! I have a Westinghouse and hooking it directly to the trailer results in a generator that wont start because the LP pressure is too low. Two solutions - carry a separate bottle or hook directly to the tank.
But that said, I do like the generator!
 

KCAlis

Well-known member
Remove the regualtor on the generators propane line and try again.
To add on, remove the first regulator (tank side) in the line. The second (pancake) is a demand regulator that is sensitive to the generator requirement. The first cuts tank pressure to approx. 10 psi while the second reduces to less than 1 psi.

Given that trailer piping pressure is less than 1 psi, you may run in to capacity issues with the trailer piping size. In that case, a tee, valve and quick connect in a hose upstream of the tank switch/regulator will provide 10 psi gas that the demand regulator expects. The hose OC lists would work well in this case.

Here’s my stand-alone setup.
 

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Lantley

Prominent Member
FYI -
Just a small heads up for those interested in using a dual fueled generator for boondocking. Something I didnt realize.
Be aware that they will not run directly off the trailer's LP outlet - or at least mine wont! I have a Westinghouse and hooking it directly to the trailer results in a generator that wont start because the LP pressure is too low. Two solutions - carry a separate bottle or hook directly to the tank.
But that said, I do like the generator!
I have a dual fuel Wen generator that can run off RV LP Quick connect. It can be done. You do not have to connect to the bottle directly. While connecting to the bottle is certainly an option. With the correct regulator you can run off of RV quick connect.
 
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rbflapjack

Active member
This is ironic because I was just going to post something very similar because I have the exact same problem as the OP. I have a Westinghouse generator and I was running it on gasoline fine and I hooked up a straight propane hose from the quick connect to the propane inlet (the same one that Oregon camper suggested). As soon as I turn on the propane at the quick connect, the generator dies even though it is still on the gasoline setting. I emailed Westinghouse and they are asking for the pressure setting at the quick connect. Does anyone know this? My guess is I need to put the second, pancake regulator in line between the quick connect and the generator to make this work. Otherwise I really want a generator that can hook directly into the quick connect.
 

2 Allies

Prominent Member
We just removed our regulator from the generator and hooked directly to the quick connect works great. Usually grills, generators, and furnaces that use propane run on approx. 11 inches w.c. or approx 0.4 psi. You cannot regulate to 11 inches of wc and then have another regulator at the fixture. The quick connect will run grills, propane fire pits, generators.
 

rbflapjack

Active member
We just removed our regulator from the generator and hooked directly to the quick connect works great. Usually grills, generators, and furnaces that use propane run on approx. 11 inches w.c. or approx 0.4 psi. You cannot regulate to 11 inches of wc and then have another regulator at the fixture. The quick connect will run grills, propane fire pits, generators.
I'm not sure what you mean by removing the regulator from the generator. Do you mean a regulator that is inside the casing past the hookup panel? If so I'm not sure I'm comfortable doing that. Does anyone know for certain what the pressure is at the lp quick connect?
 

KCAlis

Well-known member
The same as at your rig’s range and water heater, 11” H2O water column (11” WC) or approximately 0.4 psi.

I just found a great explanation of the role of the demand regulator. “The demand regulator, also called a zero regulator, tries to maintain a pressure of zero PSI on its output.

When the engine runs, manifold intake vacuum goes below zero PSI (gauge), and the regulator opens to pass propane to make up the difference. That, combined with the orifice size, is what determines how much propane makes it into the engine.

If the engine stops, the manifold intake vacuum goes to atmosphere, which means zero PSI (gauge), and the demand regulator senses that there's no demand and stops the flow.”
 
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rbflapjack

Active member
The same as at your rig’s range and water heater, 11” H2O water column (11” WC) or approximately 0.4 psi.

I just found a great explanation of the role of the demand regulator. “The demand regulator, also called a zero regulator, tries to maintain a pressure of zero PSI on its output.

When the engine runs, manifold intake vacuum goes below zero PSI (gauge), and the regulator opens to pass propane to make up the difference. That, combined with the orifice size, is what determines how much propane makes it into the engine.

If the engine stops, the manifold intake vacuum goes to atmosphere, which means zero PSI (gauge), and the demand regulator senses that there's no demand and stops the flow.”
So if I understand this right, I need to put the demand regulator in line between the quick connect and the generator. It's still confusing to me why the generator guys when I turn on the propane even though the selector switch is on gasoline but I guess that's an issue for Westinghouse
 

BryanValRox

Elite Member
This is ironic because I was just going to post something very similar because I have the exact same problem as the OP. I have a Westinghouse generator and I was running it on gasoline fine and I hooked up a straight propane hose from the quick connect to the propane inlet (the same one that Oregon camper suggested). As soon as I turn on the propane at the quick connect, the generator dies even though it is still on the gasoline setting. I emailed Westinghouse and they are asking for the pressure setting at the quick connect. Does anyone know this? My guess is I need to put the second, pancake regulator in line between the quick connect and the generator to make this work. Otherwise I really want a generator that can hook directly into the quick connect.
So, some additional information would help regarding your model number.
Generally speaking, your rig quick connect would all ready be regulated to about 11 in wc. So all that should be needed it a straight hose as OC suggested in his post. You should not need to do anything else to run the genset, other than switch it to run on propane.

The reason that it maybe stalling is that air has to be purged from the entire propane system before you will have steady regulated propane pressure.

It takes a bit to purge the system, we experience this when trying to light the stove or oven upon arrival at the campsite.
Also, when I have my Camp Chef connected to the quick connect, it takes a few seconds to purge the 18 foot supply line before the grill will light.

Not sure why you are stalling while still on gasoline, because, you should be able to switch fuel supplies while running or shut down.
I just checked a random Westinghouse RV genset manual on their site and they call out 7-14 inch WC to the inlet fitting.
 

KCAlis

Well-known member
If no regulator between RV and genset you must ALWAYS shut off the propane at the quick connect if the genset is not running. Otherwise propane could continue to flow emptying your tanks or, worse yet, feed a fire or explosion.
 

rbflapjack

Active member
I hate to say it but I seem to be getting a lot of conflicting information in this thread so I am going to continue to work with Westinghouse on the issue and if I come to a definitive conclusion I will post it here. Thanks to everyone for chiming in though.
 

M and E

Elite Member
I hate to say it but I seem to be getting a lot of conflicting information in this thread so I am going to continue to work with Westinghouse on the issue and if I come to a definitive conclusion I will post it here. Thanks to everyone for chiming in though.
Here is what the post says...not contradictory; just not all put to gether in a single post. Remove the genset regulator, run off the quick connect, always close the valve when it's off, and bleed the line if it's still rough. Worth hearing back from Westinghouse, but the advice here wasn't actually contradictory.

Lots of us here in Florida have dual fuel, whole house generators, including me (also a Westinghouse), and I know what is happening with your unit when you connect the LP. The following four points are important to understand.

First, there is only one carburetor that manages both fuel types.
Second, with the engine running, there is always vacuum; the vacuum opens the demand regulator on the LP...it does not care if the sector switch is on gas or LP.
Third, the switch between LP gasoline is not a positive disconnect between LP and Gasoline, it changes air fuel ratios for either gasoline or LP, nothing more.
Fourth; there are two positive disconnects...the petcock to shut off gasoline on the generator and the valve on your LP tank; the selector switch position is irrelevant to the available disconnects. If you read your westinghouse manual, it will tell you that when you switch from either fuel source you must positively disconnect the fuel you are not using. So running on gas, disconnect LP(valve at QC or valve at tank, or completely disconnect); LP, disconnect gasoline (petcock).

Without turning of the gasoline petcock, and opening the LP, you "flooded" the engine with a mixture of LP and gasoline. That is why it died. Go to the manual and find the troubleshooting page. Look for engine stalling on propane. It tells you right there that when this happens, stalling, you need to close the petcock and remove the LP supply, purge the carb of gas by starting and running until it dies, then reattach LP, switch to LP, and start. It will run rough for a few seconds, maybe die, but it will start right back up.

If you want to keep the LP regulator on the generator you can retrofit one of your tanks with this and run the quick connect line to this. https://www.adventurerv.net/acme-extendastay-adapter-p-5105.html

On Westinghouse, incredible customer service. Right after Hurricane Ian, my genny threw a rod with about 15 hours on the motor. I called them, told them what happened, and they asked for a picture. Literally 28 hours later, a brand new generator was in my driveway and the other hauled away.
 
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M and E

Elite Member
I just thought about something. How are Alliance generator prep packages plumbed? If they are unregulated that could be another avenue to explore.
 

RockDr896

Prominent Member
I had the same issue when connecting my two Champion 4,000 watt duel fuel generators. I attached pictures, showing how I solved the problem. No thanks to Champion...terrible support!! I did not try hooking my generator to my grill connection. Maybe I will try that some day. I have 25' of hose, in case there is an opportunity to get them away from my rig. The critical distance is the short hose they provided. That distance CANNOT be changed. I just removed the regulator and built to the rig from there. I literally had to put a 24" pipe wrench on it, to break the regulator free!! I hope this helps the discussion!
 

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RockDr896

Prominent Member
I just thought about something. How are Alliance generator prep packages plumbed? If they are unregulated that could be another avenue to explore.
They use a distribution block to add different connections. The supply hoses are larger than grill and generator hoses...5/8" vs 1/2"...I think. The threads are the tricky part. I had to transition from Flare fittings to NPT going in and NPT back to Flare going out of the block. I bought quite a few useless fittings. I was engineering this with my buddy Jack Daniels, so there was that...LOL
 

Lantley

Prominent Member
They use a distribution block to add different connections. The supply hoses are larger than grill and generator hoses...5/8" vs 1/2"...I think. The threads are the tricky part. I had to transition from Flare fittings to NPT going in and NPT back to Flare going out of the block. I bought quite a few useless fittings. I was engineering this with my buddy Jack Daniels, so there was that...LOL
I sort of had to figure it out myself too. I ended U at a place that makes hydraulic hoses to come up with the correct fittings to make it work. In my case I had to find the correct demand regulator and eliminate the regulator that Wen provided with their unit. Likewise I ended up with a few extra fittings, but in the end I was happy with the result. I can run my Wen generator off LP Quick Connect of the trailer
 
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