Entry Door Out of Alignment

[Meanjean73]

Last trip our camping spot was slightly off level left to right. RV self leveled no problem. I noticed the door was sticking on the bottom. It appears this isn’t the first time.

When in my shop on level ground no more sticking. Suggestion on how to correct this problem in the future? Re level? Adjust the front up/down to square the door back up?
Drive up on blocks for the low side?

 

[UFF]

Well my rule of thumb is if it is .5” or greater I do use blocks. Would rather have more pressure on the suspension than less. Yes I use blocks/leggos a lot. If it is more than a 1”-1.5” I roll it up on the ramp ones. If I use blocks under the tires I also use them under the hydraulic feet (I raised the four rear ones 2” last year for peace of mind)

I would also sand/grind a little off the head of the screw so it is not so proud or use a different screw. I’m sure you have all ready checked the rest of the hardware. Just my thoughts.

 

[BryanValRox]

Last trip our camping spot was slightly off level left to right. RV self leveled no problem. I noticed the door was sticking on the bottom. It appears this isn’t the first time.

When in my shop on level ground no more sticking. Suggestion on how to correct this problem in the future? Re level? Adjust the front up/down to square the door back up?
Drive up on blocks for the low side?

Not saying this was your problem, but if the steps were not reset to the new campsite, it will definitely cause issues with your door operation. Looks can be deceiving and a one hole adjustment can make all of the difference.

 

[Fishfnatic]

When we arrive at site I check level with the control pad. If it is not level I use blocks on low side to level then auto level. Also I had problems with door on my 2024 310 from day 1. Ended up getting new door from alliance under warranty and that fixed the problem. The new door had more frame screws than original so maybe problem with door assembly. Of course this may have nothing to do with your problem.

 

[Lantley]

My thought is if the door works in your shop when everything is level. Than the issue is something is out of level.
Consider Bryan's comment concerning stair interference.
From there use a manual level to determine what is or is not level. Relevel and/or recalibrate accordingly.
A simple bump up or down of one of the jack legs may resolve the issue.

 

[Meanjean73]

Well my rule of thumb is if it is .5” or greater I do use blocks. Would rather have more pressure on the suspension than less. Yes I use blocks/leggos a lot. If it is more than a 1”-1.5” I roll it up on the ramp ones. If I use blocks under the tires I also use them under the hydraulic feet (I raised the four rear ones 2” last year for peace of mind)

I would also sand/grind a little off the head of the screw so it is not so proud or use a different screw. I’m sure you have all ready checked the rest of the hardware. Just my thoughts.

I didn’t know you could raise the jacks! I’m going to do that. They seem so low when fully raised. I did grind the head before putting back in. I use Jack pads as needed but will put the tires in blocks from now on.
Thanks

 

[Meanjean73]

Not saying this was your problem, but if the steps were not reset to the new campsite, it will definitely cause issues with your door operation. Looks can be deceiving and a one hole adjustment can make all of the difference.

I agree and understand what you’re saying. The issue seemed to be the door jamb was no square causing the door to stick. I did experience the stairs being up too high the first day I brought the rv home.

 

[Meanjean73]

When we arrive at site I check level with the control pad. If it is not level I use blocks on low side to level then auto level. Also I had problems with door on my 2024 310 from day 1. Ended up getting new door from alliance under warranty and that fixed the problem. The new door had more frame screws than original so maybe problem with door assembly. Of course this may have nothing to do with your problem.

Where did the new door have more screws? Can you show me in a picture? Curious if I could add more to my door frame?

 

[Meanjean73]

My thought is if the door works in your shop when everything is level. Than the issue is something is out of level.
Consider Bryan's comment concerning stair interference.
From there use a manual level to determine what is or is not level. Relevel and/or recalibrate accordingly.
A simple bump up or down of one of the jack legs may resolve the issue.

I tried raising and lowering the front legs a bit but I got concerned that I was making things worse when I didn’t see the door improve. I felt like I was tweaking the frame when the front jacks were the only ones adjusting. Unless the other jacks adjust at the same time when lowering the front?

 

[Fishfnatic]

Where did the new door have more screws? Can you show me in a picture? Curious if I could add more to my door frame?

The new door frame had more screws I think 2 more. A mobile tech installed. Would have to take door frame trim off and re caulk top to see which ones.

 

[Lantley]

I tried raising and lowering the front legs a bit but I got concerned that I was making things worse when I didn’t see the door improve. I felt like I was tweaking the frame when the front jacks were the only ones adjusting. Unless the other jacks adjust at the same time when lowering the front?

That is the point of using the level to determine which way to move the jacks. The level can also determine if the door is square and why it is binding.
With a hydraulic system the other jacks do adjust somewhat when you move its opposing jack.