Delta Solo Common Issues
- Thread starter Gribley
- Start date
Jwtsg
Well-known member
My $0.02 FWIW,,,,,Oregon Camper has a very good PDI (pre-delivery inspection) form that you can download. Highly recommend you share that w your inspector? Also any discoveries should be repaired or fixed BEFORE you sign your final papers & leave! Biggest concern areas to focus on are system functions, slide seals, sealants, slides operations, appliance, electrical, AC, furnace, plumbing, furniture, and understanding how each system functions, is controlled, and operates,,,if you have questions or see anything you don‘t like or doesn’t work or look right,,,make sure you are satisfied before you take it off the lot and make your final payment.
Other members will also have good advice! Good luck👍🍀🌞!
Other members will also have good advice! Good luck👍🍀🌞!
Either pay for inspection or do it yourself. NEVER NEVER trust the dealer to do it. Grab mine from the link below.
D-Dub
New member
Hello, we just purchased the Solo BH181; wanting to downsize after 9 years towing a 35 foot Dutchmen across 38 states and 3 provinces and doing some snow-birding. It's been great, but we're getting older and looking to simplify a bit. I did many mods/upgrades our previous trailer, so looking at similar work on the Solo. This thread looks like the place to find and share information and ideas; if not, please let me know where else to go...
Regarding my inspection of our Solo, before signing, the first thing that jumped out at me were the numerous openings in the coroplast belly cover. (1) The factory's foam seals are a bit more "generous" than I would prefer; to the extent it's hard to see if there are places where gaps may be hiding. I'll be removing a lot of that. (2) the coroplast is nicely sealed at the rear of the trailer, tucked under trim, but it is not sealed along the front. Rather, they took the extra material and folded it back--up and inside--leaving 1/2 inch gap. I'll use a sealant tape on that (either flashing tape or belly sealant tape). Along the sides, there a various waves and gaps I'll be sealing with a poly urethane caulk. Dropping the spare tire, I found a fairly large X cut where the cable drops through; that too will be taped. Finally, they punch drip holes at intervals along the belly. For those, I'll use small pieces of fiberglass window screen held with single squares of tape having a small hole in the middle. Between yellow jackets and Asian Stink bugs, I need that belly sealed; there are too many openings from the belly into the living area not to. By the way, the salesman didn't know exactly how the "un-ducted" furnace heats the belly. Removing the panel under the fridge, I found an abs pipe under the furnace that drops into the belly, which is no doubt serving as a ductwork. It will be interesting to see how much air flow I'm getting through that.
Regards,
Dennis
Regarding my inspection of our Solo, before signing, the first thing that jumped out at me were the numerous openings in the coroplast belly cover. (1) The factory's foam seals are a bit more "generous" than I would prefer; to the extent it's hard to see if there are places where gaps may be hiding. I'll be removing a lot of that. (2) the coroplast is nicely sealed at the rear of the trailer, tucked under trim, but it is not sealed along the front. Rather, they took the extra material and folded it back--up and inside--leaving 1/2 inch gap. I'll use a sealant tape on that (either flashing tape or belly sealant tape). Along the sides, there a various waves and gaps I'll be sealing with a poly urethane caulk. Dropping the spare tire, I found a fairly large X cut where the cable drops through; that too will be taped. Finally, they punch drip holes at intervals along the belly. For those, I'll use small pieces of fiberglass window screen held with single squares of tape having a small hole in the middle. Between yellow jackets and Asian Stink bugs, I need that belly sealed; there are too many openings from the belly into the living area not to. By the way, the salesman didn't know exactly how the "un-ducted" furnace heats the belly. Removing the panel under the fridge, I found an abs pipe under the furnace that drops into the belly, which is no doubt serving as a ductwork. It will be interesting to see how much air flow I'm getting through that.
Regards,
Dennis
D-Dub
New member
Spoke too soon, again
. The ABS pipe under the heater appears to be the kitchen sink drain pipe. When I pulled the electrical panel, to see the converter, surprise! The drain pipe takes a 90 degree bend heading toward the heater, then another to get on the inside of the frame rail, so it can drop into the belly. The specs on our Suburban NT-20SEQ Direct Discharge state there is a “side vent kit” available, but the knock-out where that would be attached is still intact, and the space this furnace occupies isn’t wide enough anyway. Online details for this trailer are sparse, at best, and I find nothing on this topic.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
. The ABS pipe under the heater appears to be the kitchen sink drain pipe. When I pulled the electrical panel, to see the converter, surprise! The drain pipe takes a 90 degree bend heading toward the heater, then another to get on the inside of the frame rail, so it can drop into the belly. The specs on our Suburban NT-20SEQ Direct Discharge state there is a “side vent kit” available, but the knock-out where that would be attached is still intact, and the space this furnace occupies isn’t wide enough anyway. Online details for this trailer are sparse, at best, and I find nothing on this topic.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk