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Black tank gate valve stuck OPEN!

We recently changed site locations and cleared the holding tanks. The black tank gate valve has always been stiff to open and close since we bought our 2021 42V13 from the original owner. When I tried to close the valve the cable would not budge. I pressed hard enough that the cable stem started to bend. Needless to say the head is off-limits until further notice. The cable is "self lubricating" so it is sealed and cannot be lubed externally. I'm' afraid its time to drop the belly cover and repair or replace the gate valve. I assume I will need to drop the cover from the front as far as is needed to access the black tank. Any guidance or suggestions would be helpful. I assume the valve is glued in but is serviceable. Where in the frame layout is the forward black tank? Thanks for helping out with this "I had better things to do with my Saturday" task.
 

Focker

Well-known member
I had a cable that was binding and decided to put electric valves on mine. It's nice having all valves open or close at the touch of a button and no more worry about those cables.
 

Shelly S

Well-known member
We recently changed site locations and cleared the holding tanks. The black tank gate valve has always been stiff to open and close since we bought our 2021 42V13 from the original owner. When I tried to close the valve the cable would not budge. I pressed hard enough that the cable stem started to bend. Needless to say the head is off-limits until further notice. The cable is "self lubricating" so it is sealed and cannot be lubed externally. I'm' afraid its time to drop the belly cover and repair or replace the gate valve. I assume I will need to drop the cover from the front as far as is needed to access the black tank. Any guidance or suggestions would be helpful. I assume the valve is glued in but is serviceable. Where in the frame layout is the forward black tank? Thanks for helping out with this "I had better things to do with my Saturday" task.
I have the same issue on my 41v15. On the second black tank
 

Oregon_Camper

Forum Admin
Staff member
We recently changed site locations and cleared the holding tanks. The black tank gate valve has always been stiff to open and close since we bought our 2021 42V13 from the original owner. When I tried to close the valve the cable would not budge. I pressed hard enough that the cable stem started to bend. Needless to say the head is off-limits until further notice. The cable is "self lubricating" so it is sealed and cannot be lubed externally. I'm' afraid its time to drop the belly cover and repair or replace the gate valve. I assume I will need to drop the cover from the front as far as is needed to access the black tank. Any guidance or suggestions would be helpful. I assume the valve is glued in but is serviceable. Where in the frame layout is the forward black tank? Thanks for helping out with this "I had better things to do with my Saturday" task.
You can use this external valve for now and then continue to use it going forward. It will stop all the leaks that come out of all the valves, and then once you have the hose connected, you open this valve. https://amzn.to/411SYPF
 

Shelly S

Well-known member
You can use this external valve for now and then continue to use it going forward. It will stop all the leaks that come out of all the valves, and then once you have the hose connected, you open this valve. https://amzn.to/411SYPF
Thanks I already have it. I repaired my valve today. There is actually a cut out in the colorplast that is at the valve. I removed the screws holding it on. Jiggled the valve around shot some silicone spray lubricant down on the cable. Had someone else try to move it with handle. Moved a little. I then took 2 pieces of wood and 2 can’t talk right now-clamps and bent the handle back straight. Added some lubricant and it is working fine now. A little hard still but not stuck open.
 

M and E

Prominent Member
Thanks I already have it. I repaired my valve today. There is actually a cut out in the colorplast that is at the valve. I removed the screws holding it on. Jiggled the valve around shot some silicone spray lubricant down on the cable. Had someone else try to move it with handle. Moved a little. I then took 2 pieces of wood and 2 can’t talk right now-clamps and bent the handle back straight. Added some lubricant and it is working fine now. A little hard still but not stuck open.
Happy to hear that you have your issue resolved. What is a can't talk right now clamp?
 

Midnight Rider

Prominent Member
You can use this external valve for now and then continue to use it going forward. It will stop all the leaks that come out of all the valves, and then once you have the hose connected, you open this valve. https://amzn.to/411SYPF
That’s a great idea!
I always have a little/lot of leakage in my pipe when I go to connect my hose and it can make a mess!
The picture you posted from Amazon only shows a hose connection on one side? Is the other side the same connection?
This will solve my problem if so?
 

Oregon_Camper

Forum Admin
Staff member
That’s a great idea!
I always have a little/lot of leakage in my pipe when I go to connect my hose and it can make a mess!
The picture you posted from Amazon only shows a hose connection on one side? Is the other side the same connection?
This will solve my problem if so?
One side connects to the existing sewer pipe and the other end to your sewer hose (model T58). It stays on the RV. There is another version (model T50) where you cut off the knobs on the RV's sewer pipe (sand them down to flush) and use pipe glue to make a permanet connection.

1739861065232.png 1739861347640.png
 

Lantley

Prominent Member
I got rid of my twist on cap many moons ago and replaced it with a twist on valve it eliminates the residual water mess issue.
 
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