Never chased the rest of it once i found the frig wire. Alliance Support was great in helping. I suspect the 1 littler red wire is a 7 wire charging line. Just a guess.
Battery drain while in storage with both disconnects " OFF"
- Thread starter 56Jeff
- Start date
I just moved mine. Alliance support blessed me moving it. It's my belief, the disconnect should give you a totally dead rv, and zero battery drain.
Giant
Member
If anyone else figures out what the other wires go to, I’d love to know. Ultimately I may do what Jim did—redo the whole electrical--but in the meantime I just want to move stuff off the hot bus, if possible.
Giant
Member
Smoke alarm is battery only, but you’re probably right about the other two.
I will guess solar and a hot wire from the 7way plug, both designed to charge the battery. When i open the disconnect my CO2 detector on the pnl looses the green bar.
Solar is a good guess. That would be easy to check. Just follow the POS cable coming off the MPPT controller.
Giant
Member
I took a quick look when we got the rig home today. There are two wires connected directly to the battery through a breaker as in the photos 56Jeff posted above. A third wire is also connected directly to the battery, but this one is connected directly to the hot side of the main disconnect switch. No breaker. The refrigerator appears to be connected downstream of the disconnect switch. It is not powered when the main disconnect and solar disconnect switches are off. The MPPT controller is also off when both disconnects are off.
My best guess now is that my battery drain is coming from the Victron GX Touch, as it remains powered with main and solar disconnects off. Still not yet sure what the other two wires are going to. I will eventually re-route everything downstream of the main disconnect, but that project will have to wait.
When it comes to solar, I believe Alliance is taking the wrong approach to wiring them. I had to throw a breaker in between my panels and the charger. When I pointed out to them, the National Electrical code (NEC), their response was that the RV industry doesn't adopt that part of the NEC. When looking through the Renogy Inverter manual, it clearly states it is to be installed in accordance with the NEC. It probably wasn't more than a year before they issued a recall on the wiring point at the roof penetration. They had used wire nuts to connect to the solar panels. To this day, I don't think they are putting a breaker on their systems. It is only a $89 part, which just makes me shake my head...I think the problem at the build stage is really a problem at the design stage and the guidance given to the assembly line. Glad you got your issue figured out, but I hope more people see this and get a breaker installed. Isolating those panels will help trouble shoot electrical issues easier.
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I am so close to taking out my "Generator prep" and doing what you have done. Maybe next year. I want to get my inverter out of my pass through area.
I really don't see us ever going boon docking, although solar is cool, we just dont need it. I was thinking before i had a fix, i would just unwire the solar system, and be done with it. Only carrot to it all, is if you traveling, and have to disconnect from truck for hours, and the frig/freezer is filled. Then it becomes your bacon savor.
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With the advent of 12 volt fridges solar become a necessary component. Just going down the road you need solar to keep battery charged enough to keep fridge satisfied.
You can install a DC to DC charge line from the truck to keep RV charged but that is another step/additional modification.
Unless you have a traditional lp fridge solar becomes a necessity.