Awning Rail Pulling away
- Thread starter Saurd
- Start date
can you upload a picture?
Chaseweston
Well-known member
I had a number of the awning screws pulling out on our rain gutter / awning rail. One section actually caused a leak into the garage area. They were stripped from the factory. I pulled them, installed one size up SS screws, with a dab of silicone and moved forward. I bought a bunch of them to replace them as I find them backed out.
Did you need to use a countersink at all moving to a larger screw?
I had resources on this now I cannot find them. I used AI when my slide toppers were pulling away and now I cannot locate it in my history. There is something on this site about this exact repair where Alliance chimed in on how to fix it. Sorry I cannot find it.
AI found this. https://alliancervowners.com/forum/threads/need-ideas-on-fastening-to-interior-walls.208/post-917 The thread is about interior walls, but Bill Martin responds with information about the exterior wall.
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Chaseweston
Well-known member
I did not. I used pan head SS screws readily available at box stores.
Saurd, I just realized from your photo that your awning rail is not incorporated into the rain gutter like mine is. I'm on the fence which I'd prefer. I like the rain gutter attachment on ours because it doesn't leave a collection point for water and leaves and such on top of the awning barrel but in the same breath, the 19' awning on ours is pulling a lot of force on the rain gutter that is the "cap" on the roof edge termination and any failure at this location almost immediately introduces a leak where water is channeled to.
You could try larger screws where your factory ones are pulling out and take care hand tightening them so as not to strip them, maybe even dap a bit of sealant/adhesive in the hole or dip the screw prior to installation to help seal it and limit vibration back out. You could also use 3m 5200 as a last resort if it keeps happening. I have a tube of it I was going to use on the rain gutter rail if I kept chasing my tail with screws backing out. It is serious, PERMANENT stuff.
You got that right on permanent! No going back after an hour or so.
Along those same lines, I’m a fan of 3M VHB, but only the brand name product. If a bead of VHB were behind the mounting rail you’d probably never notice a loose screw.
I had this happen on my 32RLS right after I purchased in 2021. I contacted Alliance about the issue. They told me that there was supposed to be an aluminum backer in the wall for the screws to bite into. I tried larger screws but no luck. Based on their direction I purchased some bulb tite rivets and reinstalled the railing. It's been on there for almost 5 years with no issues. You can google the rivets, but they are an exploding type of rivet. The ones I got were more substantial than the tri-fold shown above.
Jwtsg
Well-known member
My &0.02,,,had this happen on a previous tow behind. Used the large cap “exploding” pop rivets. They come in different sizes,,,have engineering on pullout.
Many original screws had been over tightened by drill & were stripped when purchased,,,replaced all,,,caulked each rivet hole prior to install & rivet caps after completion & recaulked top of mount a top line exterior caulking,,,took on 3 5,000 mile Oregon to Texas & back trips,,, never had a problem again,,,but was a mfgr/dealer recommendation at that time! Good luck👍🌞🍀!!
Trailer did have metal backing behind fiberglass wall @ awning mount One consideration w Lager screws & thru bolt solutions allow easier future removal than rivets.
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Thank you to all, the input is helpful. Also reached out to Alliance service and they came thru with some good helpful info which is inline with comments posted above. Thought I would share, see below -
Then asked what EGS is - EGS is Electro-Galvanized Steel. It is .0142 inches thick, around 28-29 gauge.
Being an engineer the drawing helps me a lot and for future reference as well. Wish more things like this was made available.
Thank you to all who took the time to respond, very helpful and enjoyable learning different ideas.
Saurd
Then asked what EGS is - EGS is Electro-Galvanized Steel. It is .0142 inches thick, around 28-29 gauge.
Being an engineer the drawing helps me a lot and for future reference as well. Wish more things like this was made available.
Thank you to all who took the time to respond, very helpful and enjoyable learning different ideas.
Saurd
RoadJunkie
Well-known member
I wish they would have supplied a picture of the EGS. I'm not sure if the piece is stamped for rigidity, or it's honeycomb for weight reduction. It doesn't look like corrugated.