50A distribution of the 2 hot circuits on a Delta

[daemonic3]

Hello,

I knew there was likely not going to be any info on this no matter how hard I searched (just not enough Delta info yet since they are too new!) so I decided to test for myself. I wanted to know how the 2 hots are distributed through the unit, because when using a 30A (single hot) to 50A (dual hot) dogbone adapter, it actually splits the hot into 2 branches. BUT if using one of those Y joiner-adapters where one leg is 30A (TT connector) and one leg is 15/20A (household connector), I want to know which one to give the 30A to and label it appropriately. (example: https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Plug-Adapters/Camco/CAM55025.html)

I have a F150 Powerboost with the 7.2kW generator. I used it to power our 294RK Delta, so I can use my Fordpass app while inside the unit to monitor the live power on each of the 2 hot legs (A and B is what the app calls them). Here is what I found:

Leg A:
Fireplace
Bedroom AC

Leg B:
Main AC
Microwave
GFCI outlets
General outlets
Converter

I suspect that the microwave/general/gfci are all lumped together because they are in the inverter prep loop. But I'm surprised that leg B is so loaded up! I would have swapped the ACs, or put the Converter on Leg A to load balance a little.

Anyway, given the above, I would give Leg B the 30A and Leg A the 15/20A. I do not know if other Delta models are done in the same way (especially those w/o a fireplace!)

SIDE NOTE: I tested the Main AC first on low, to see which circuit and it drew 800W steady state. I cannot capture the inrush because the app is a "pull" to refresh, not a live instantaneous reading. But the AC ran fine. Interestingly, when I tried the bedroom AC on low, it ran for about 2 seconds before it tripped my truck's genny as an overload on leg A. Hmmm.... these are supposed to be able to both run on 30A! I hope that was a fluke and not the norm. I did not reset and retest as I got the info I wanted and had limited time.

-T

 

[Jim Beletti]

Nothing to do with your test or the results, but...
While the reviews of this product are generally good, my understanding is that in nearly all cases at a campground, the 15A GFCI outlet in the pedestal is branched off one of the 2 hot legs serving that pedestal and is not provisioned from a power panel separately.

 

[daemonic3]

I wondered about that! I don't actually own that product. Just something I saw before and was always curious about.

If the pedestal only has 30A anyway then it probably only has 1 hot leg in the first place! But at least now I know how my trailer is wired.

 

[RognMar]

Hello, I would like to chime in.
Please look at it this way Electricity is normaly invisible to the human eye and it would Love to ruin your vacation if it could, actually i dont belive Electricity has feelings like Love.

I do own this adapter. I am the proud owner on an Avenue 32rls. In my humble opinion I would buy the adapter again. However the adapter is not perfect in most cases and will not work. Let me try to explain my personal usage. We look at a "normal" up to "local electrical code" campground pedestal, it "usualy" has three receptacles. I will use general terms so we don't go too much off topic.
One 50amp receptacle
One 30amp receptacle
One 20amp or 15amp the GFCI receptacle is used because it can be exposed and will be exposed to the outside environment like moisture.

In this campground or your campground
Your RV uses the good 50amp receptacle. It has One 30amp receptacle you dont use, and One 20amp or 15amp receptacle GFCI you may or may not use.
I would research (Google) if you do not completely, 100% understand the information listed below.
This is how I test it every time, before I unhitch in 30amp spot.
Tricky part
Always whether it 30amp or 50amp
Test Pedestal for a negative "Hot Skin" condition. Once done.
Next ensure all breakers in the pedestal are off. They should be off if the previous camper turned off the Breakers when they disconnected their RVs power.
Tricky part
Without touching pedestal useing a non conductive tool turn all the breakers on. (Insulated Screwdriver) and a PVC pipe hold the pesky cover.
Test pedestal for a negative "Hot Skin" condition.
After a negative "Hot Skin" condition.
Follow testing procedures
After verification of voltages In this case:
Multi Meter or Plug in 30amp and Plug in 20amp or 15amp testers that SHOW the voltages. (Not just a light).
A 30amp good Surge Guard would be perfect to use to test the 30amp receptacle. I don't have one.
Turn off Breakers
Then you may plug or utilize the adapter on the 30amp receptacle and the 20amp or 15amp GFCI receptacle.
Connect your RV to the adapter that is connected to the pedestal with Breakers off.
With all loads off in your RV. Turn on 30amp and 20amp or 15amp receptacle. .
The GFCI will trip once it senses the imbalance on its curcuit like the loads (stuff) in your RV.
What I have found is the 20amp or 15amp GFCI receptacle will trip making it useless everytime It will trip and should always trip under this condition. Cursing at it will not help. Belive me I have tried that as a work around.

If you have a different pedistal and I do mean different. That has One 30amp receptacle and One 20amp or 15amp Non GFCI receptacle for a total of 45amps. The adapter will work and not trip anything in the pedestal as long as you stay below the Breakers limits. Never saw GFCI Breaker in a pedestal.

With all that said, you would trip 20amp or 15amp circuit that feeds the non GFCI receptacle if that circuit in protected in another location with GFCI protection. Just like your home you may have a GFCI Breaker to protect you around moist conditions like your sink or the GFCI circuits in your RV. i am not saying the GFCI circuits in your RV trip, but about the circuits feeding to your pedestal.

Technically
Inside the normal adapter on the 50amp receptacle or the side you plug your 50amp RV cord into, hidden internally the two 50amp pins are bridged together or bonded together. The entire RV in this case is being feed by 30amps. For example you could with the electrical usage in your RV 13amps being consumed by some imaginary device on pin two or leg two and 10amps being used on pin1 or leg one. It does not matter what combination of amps on leg one and or leg two as long as one or both do not exceed the 30amps you are using. The 30amps are shared.
In this adapter internally pin one or leg one and pin 2 or leg 2 is tied to the 15amp or 20amp giving up to 45amps shared between legs 1 and two.
Why only 45amps? Because the plug that goes into the 20amp or 15amp receptacle is only rated for 15amp. Math tells us 30amps and 15amps equil 15amp. But you knew that.
*Remember bridged or bonded together .

50amp receptacle useing your RV cord
Normally pin one on the plug or leg one RV is for 50amps for one side of your electrical panel and pin two on the plug or leg two has the 50amps for the other side of your RV electrical panel. Here you have 50amp each on both pins. So amp away, just no more than 50amps per pin or leg.
"Remember Seperated
Look up (Google) why a particular electrical circuit in campground Pedestals. Something about Phase Angles. Phase A, B and C, sounds shifty.

Our Adapter
Our Apapter will have on pin one 30amps of the 50amp RV cord 20amps or 15amps on pin 2. Up to 45amps leg one and leg 2 of your panelatomic be shared.
As long as it's not GFCI protected.
It's the shared neutral imbalance senced by the GFCI that wants it to trip.
*Remember tied or bonded together.

Excellent Restricted Useage
For at home. No need Dogbone to dogbone to dogbone to ... As long as you are fine having 20amps or 15amps powering to leg 2 of you RV panel. We now know it's only 15amps.
If I missed anything in spell checker feel free to use these; ' ÷,)*=#?abotngp
Sincerely
Roger

 

[taylorbiskie]

Thank you so much for doing this test and sharing it!
We bought our 294rk a month ago and our fireplace AND our bedroom ac unit stopped working recently. Now I know they are both on the same Leg which is super helpful in us diagnosing the issue.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk