I am in NC, so HQ isn't an option. I have already done the inside rivets and larger screws at the angle iron. I am waiting for dealer to call me back. Since I have the trailer already broken down, I am going inside to pull screws from the floor. Then I am going to put a VERY heavy ratchet strap on it and see if it pops back into alignment, as the PDF attached in a post above says. I am interested to see if any of the screws inside broke actually.
370FB - Beware of the back wall to floor attachment
- Thread starter RockDr896
- Start date
When it comes to major repairs the factory is always better option.
A 3rd party shop or dealer will have your units for weeks. A day to Elkhart and a day back is a small price to pay to get it fixed right.
I have owned RV's long enough to know that returning the unit to the factory is your ace in the hole when it comes to structural repairs. Not having a factory option is when things get dicey.
A 3rd party shop or dealer will have your units for weeks. A day to Elkhart and a day back is a small price to pay to get it fixed right.
I have owned RV's long enough to know that returning the unit to the factory is your ace in the hole when it comes to structural repairs. Not having a factory option is when things get dicey.
Good advice and I am pursuing that as well today. If I can get the wall to snap back into alignment, I will do the PDF fix and most certainly get on the list for a factory visit. A factory tour would be nice and answer many questions I have concerning how things are fastened.
Update: I was able to use a strap, 1 block of wood, and a 20lb hammer. I just put a bit of pressure on the strap and gave it a love tap. Everything is aligned and ready to be reinforced. Alliance is sending the replacement metal skirts and I am happy there was no back and forth as others have experienced. The issue on my unit, is that the floor at the corners is not attached to the rear panel and moves/vibrates quite a bit. I think it is more of a shaking/vibration issue. None of the inside repairs I made behind the back wall couch were compromised. Meaning, no screws were sheared or stripped. Most likely, having made the inside fix, saved me from a bigger issue.
I plan to put the additional angle underneath the frame and connect to the rear panel, as suggested above. This will make it as solid as possible.
I am thinking that it is under engineering the forces up and down. Considering how much of the trailer is behind the axles and all the screws were stripped and not sheared when I did the inside repairs. This makes me believe the forces are more up and down, rather than side to side.
Still no word from Campers Inn (Dealer) and Alliance is out to November in scheduling repairs.
I plan to put the additional angle underneath the frame and connect to the rear panel, as suggested above. This will make it as solid as possible.
I am thinking that it is under engineering the forces up and down. Considering how much of the trailer is behind the axles and all the screws were stripped and not sheared when I did the inside repairs. This makes me believe the forces are more up and down, rather than side to side.
Still no word from Campers Inn (Dealer) and Alliance is out to November in scheduling repairs.
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You might consider using structural rivets in place of the pop rivets. There is not a lot there for the lag screws to hold on to. I think that the repair sheet for this that Alliance put out specified alternating screws and structural rivets. When I did this repair on my rig the structural rivets are really the thing that pulls and holds the wall in. The screws are there for shear strength. Also despite what Alliance has in the repair document I had the screws pull out of the floor - the installed screws were the self tapping type. I replaced these with larger screws and on all screws used Loctite.
I just received the skirting. No template was included, but packaged very well. Luckily it is a straight cut, so it is easy enough. I used this job to get another tool!! I purchased the DEWALT 18 ga shear attachment for use on a drill. So there is that.... Overall, the fix was simple on my rig. The dealer still hasn't called me back.
Is this a problem with the 370FB only or does it extend to other Paradigm models? We have a 2024 Paradigm 340RL.
Yours may have the issue. I understand it to be the floor plans with the couch on the back wall. Pull open your couch and look for either screws coming out, or the screws are stripped. Mine were stripped and I was able to simply pull them out with my hand. I took DWfish's idea and I think adding the angle at the bottom (The red line), as show in the picture, is a must do addition to the repair. Because of existing frame design, my angle was 3" x 6". I bought a very heavy 6"x6" angle and cut one side to 3". I used #14 self tapping screws to secure them. The wall will not move now.
If you want to do a simple check, remove the screws from the floor behind your couch. Go outside and grab the rear wall at the bottom corner and see if you can move it back and forth. If you can, I would at a minimum, add the angle shown in red. Then periodically check the angle behind the couch to ensure nothing is moving until you are satisfied. I think the DWfish idea does more to support the wall better than the Alliance fix and doesn't require removing the metal skirt.
Added a picture of the angle bracket installed.
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