rbflapjack
Member
Is there an easier way to drain the hot water heater then pulling the drain plug? I tried using the low point drain and opening up interior fixtures to vent but that didn't seem to work. Pulling the drain plug is such a mess.
Draining water heater from low point drains
- Thread starter rbflapjack
- Start date
Nope...the plug is the only way to fully drain it. As a bonus, you get to check the rod, in case it needs to be replaced. Also...remove water pressure BEFORE removing the plug. I made that mistake years ago and still laugh at myself everytime I take the plug out now. 
rbflapjack
Member
Thanks for the info and the warning. I made the mistake once of not letting it cool enough. Not quite sure why it won't drain from the low point drain but I guess I don't understand the plumbing.Nope...the plug is the only way to fully drain it. As a bonus, you get to check the rod, in case it needs to be replaced. Also...remove water pressure BEFORE removing the plug. I made that mistake years ago and still laugh at myself everytime I take the plug out now.
BryanValRox
Elite Member
So, 100% agree with Jim. The drain plug is the best and most effective method.
Not sure of your actual plumbing layout, but many RV water heaters have a check valve in the hot water outlet or bypass valve strategy (or both) . This impacts the ability for it to drain via yur low points. Air must have a path in, in order for the water to drain out effectively..
I guess in theory, assuming the heater is mounted above your low points, and you only have the check valve installed in your hot water outlet connection and you opened your pressure and temperature valve to allow air in, the water should drain back out the cold circuit to your low points. It would drain at a much slower rate and likely not as effective as the anode plug method.. I wouldn’t recommend it.
Personally, I use the anode plug method after it cools a bit. I vent the PTV and pull the plug and get out of the way as the 12 gallons drains on the ground. I do this during camp tear down to shed @ 100 lbs before travel.
RoadJunkie
Well-known member
I might try pressurizing the water system with about 30 psi and open the hot water faucets. I believe this would force the water out of the tank, but I haven't tried it. I have always drained the water heater, reinstalled the plug, and pressurized the system to winterize. In this process I don't bypass the water heater.
George
Prominent Member
https://a.co/d/0di06pry here’s a little gizmo to make it slightly less messy.
RoadJunkie
Well-known member
We might be ignoring one of the fundamental reasons for pulling the rod plug to drain the tank; Flushing the tank. I find there is always a good amount of sediment in the tank upon draining. I go so far as to use a drill-driven pump to completely drain and remove residual sediment.
Never thought of this. Great tip!!
Flyer32RLS
Well-known member
Looks like a good way to waste your money! It doesn't cause a big mess. It's just water. The things they come up with to get money out of your pocket! Save it and buy a burger!
NAILED IT! I always end up winterizing inside my warehouse storage. I just control the flow out with the anode rod and line up (3) 5 gallon buckets. Should I ever drop too much on the slab, I will have a great hockey rink..LOL. I think the magnet connection, will still yield a bunch of water on the ground. Has anyone used this, to say otherwise?
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Mabye I need a side hussle and just make this for $10 vs the $15 on Amazon
