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Top bubble seal keeps ripping out - this is 3rd time.

RockDr896

Prominent Member
OK guys. I have an upper bulb seal that will not stay in. It is on my hydraulic kitchen slide (370FB). I thought I had it fixed, by adding a washer to my screw. I thought more clamping surface area, would solve the issue. Now I am thinking/wondering if it is a tension issue. I looked at how my plywood floor lines up in the extended out position and it sits as close as any installer could get it. I would go so far to say, it's perfect.

The bulb seal, comes out during travel. Logically, I am assuming air flow is pushing out the seal to the rear of the RV. Enough airflow, that it rips the rubber along the screw on both ends and tries to make an exit. Now I have been known to fly down the road at 80MPH at times, but mostly around 70MPH. I like drafting behind truckers without GPS monitoring..LOL.

So....Has anyone else been fighting this battle?

Observation: My top seal extends over top of my side seal. Should my side seal run higher and cover/butt up to the top seal...thereby prevent air from getting into the top seal? How are your bulb seals joined?
 

BryanValRox

Elite Member
OK guys. I have an upper bulb seal that will not stay in. It is on my hydraulic kitchen slide (370FB). I thought I had it fixed, by adding a washer to my screw. I thought more clamping surface area, would solve the issue. Now I am thinking/wondering if it is a tension issue. I looked at how my plywood floor lines up in the extended out position and it sits as close as any installer could get it. I would go so far to say, it's perfect.

The bulb seal, comes out during travel. Logically, I am assuming air flow is pushing out the seal to the rear of the RV. Enough airflow, that it rips the rubber along the screw on both ends and tries to make an exit. Now I have been known to fly down the road at 80MPH at times, but mostly around 70MPH. I like drafting behind truckers without GPS monitoring..LOL.

So....Has anyone else been fighting this battle?

Observation: My top seal extends over top of my side seal. Should my side seal run higher and cover/butt up to the top seal...thereby prevent air from getting into the top seal? How are your bulb seals joined?
Wow! 80mph! To fast for my comfort level!
I would offer the following;
1. Slow Down 😂
2. Ensure that each end of the bulb seal end is plugged with sealant to prevent air from entering the void.
3. Ensure there are no rips or tears along the span
4. I would assume that this seal is held in place by a track. I recently had my vertical kitchen slide seal pull out of its track. I cleaned it, cleaned the track. I then used adhesive in the track before snapping in back into the the track. Once back in place, I used a bead of sealant to seal the leading edge. Your top seal would b exposed to a different environment. So, in my opinion, plugging the ends and using an adhesive in the track would be the best medication.

I never gave wind pressure a thought until we returned from a trip and I found a small section of the roof line trim screw cover was missing(@ 6 inches worth), when I looked further along the roof line, I found another section of the screw trim cover trim had come out of its track groove. I could only assume that air pressure entered the void at at the front, traveled its way back to the back, hit the plug, raised the air pressure and caused the seal to push out and vent at the weak spot. I replaced the missing piece , reinstalled the small blown out section, sealed the repair with adhesive, and haven’t had an issue since.
Given that you report you issue going down the road, this seems like the likely cause. I would also recommend that all of your seals should be conditioned to prevent sticking to the slide out when setting up camp. They can tend to stick to the slide surface when closed for extended periods.
 
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Lantley

Prominent Member
I replaced my bulb seal using the washer method as you stated and it's held fine. However I had a buddy who just reported to me that there is a one piece bulb seal. He had the same problem This will be his 3rd time fixing it however the one piece seal was used this time.


I'm not sure this is the exact part or product he referenced.
He did tell me he can get an Alliance part number for this product I'll try to get it to you tomorrow.
Be sure to check out the video in the link

He said Just measure the flap……so put the tape up against the bottom of the bulb seal and just measure the flat part

Most top seals will be 2 3/4 unless you have an oddball. I wouldn’t gamble on it lol
 
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BryanValRox

Elite Member
I replaced my bulb seal using the washer method as you stated and it's held fine. However I had a buddy who just reported to me that there is a one piece bulb seal. He had the same problem This will be his 3rd time fixing it however the one piece seal was used this time.

I'm not sure this is the exact part or product he referenced.
He did tell me he can get an Alliance part number for this product I'll try to get it to you tomorrow.
Be sure to check out the video in the link

He said Just measure the flap……so put the tape up against the bottom of the bulb seal and just measure the flat part

Most top seals will be 2 3/4 unless you have an oddball. I wouldn’t gamble on it lol
Although I am currently at a loss to locate it, I am aware of a company that makes a molded 90 degrees connection that over laps and joins the vertical and horizontal sections of the slide seal . This could be a possible solution for you as well.
 

UFF

Well-known member
I had similar issue. This is how I resolved it. Pull the old bulb seal and clean area up and get all the silicon off. Replaced bulb seal with new one. Make sure it is not stretched during the install. Make sure you do not pull the ends or stretch in any way to put the screws in. Then run a bead of quality sealant of your choice across the top of the bulb seal. Let dry for 24hr and I have not had the issue since.
 

BryanValRox

Elite Member
Another possible factor could be that the slide travel needs adjusted to ensure the seal is being compressed properly.
 

Lantley

Prominent Member
I was told that the seals move because the slide is moving and bouncing against the seals causing the seal to start to move and come loose.
This is not my theory but it is what was explained to me that causes the seal issue.
So far in my case attaching New OEM style seals with the washer solve the problem.
I was also told some of the bulb seals move more than others and that they are not all created equal LOL.
 

RockDr896

Prominent Member
I was told that the seals move because the slide is moving and bouncing against the seals causing the seal to start to move and come loose.
This is not my theory but it is what was explained to me that causes the seal issue.
So far in my case attaching New OEM style seals with the washer solve the problem.
I was also told some of the bulb seals move more than others and that they are not all created equal LOL.
Interesting....so the manufacturers "fit" tolerance comes into play "Up and down movement combined with direction air flow" ....I think a winter project to change the seal system is on my winter list. Filling the end with silicone, just doesn't seem like a fix. I can't deny it would prevent air into the seal, but it adds nothing structurally.

Some of the newer automotive seal systems, seem to be a better choice. Making it a continuous corner makes the most sense. So trimlock requires me to buy a new tool to make the corner...never a bad thing, but downsizing what I already have vs need...that is becoming the battle. I am going to limp this to year end. I just pulled out a specialty hand saw that I was thinking of getting rid of and used it to do something....LOL!! I hope I can watch the winner in the battle to buy my tools and "google" what the hell they do!! I mean...we shall see if AI knows...ROFL!!! Any ways guys...thanks for the feedback! I will post my fix, this winter!
 
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