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Temporary loss of power

At times when closing the kitchen or living slides, there will be a loss of power during operation. At first, I thought it was acting like a thermal switch operation, as it would reset in 15 - 20 seconds. Now I'm suspecting I may have a battery issue. Has anyone had this type of issue and knows the root cause? TIA
 

Jim Beletti

Well-known member
It could be both. So your battery may not be up to the task (low voltage) and current spikes causing the auto-resetting mini breaker to thermal out, then reset. This is just one theory.
 

J. Thomas

Well-known member
This happened to me during some really cold weather. Would lose power for a few seconds. I would start again, and power would fail. I then positioned the truck where I could leave it running and hook up the electric cable to the truck plug in. Let it charge that way for 5 minutes or so, and everything worked after that. So, I think it was due to the cold weather and the batterys. Have never had to work slides in cold weather since, and have had no problems since.
Jeff
 

Jim Beletti

Well-known member
This happened to me during some really cold weather. Would lose power for a few seconds. I would start again, and power would fail. I then positioned the truck where I could leave it running and hook up the electric cable to the truck plug in. Let it charge that way for 5 minutes or so, and everything worked after that. So, I think it was due to the cold weather and the batterys. Have never had to work slides in cold weather since, and have had no problems since.
Jeff
Hi Jeff - when the hydraulic fluid gets cold, it gets thicker. When the hydraulic pump is activated, it takes more current to move the thicker fluid. That higher current draw combined with a battery that may have been a bet weak or under-charged also contributes to a higher current draw. This can result in that 50A auto-resetting mini breaker to trip (thermal out), then reset.
 

J. Thomas

Well-known member
Yes, I had forgotten that the hydraulic oil might be cold and thick also. I did think of that later on. Anyway, I will never need to use the slides or hydraulic jacks again in sub freezing weather, I hope.
 

Jim Beletti

Well-known member
I had the same issue and alliance sent an 80amp breaker and it hasn’t happened since.
Thanks for sharing this. For those reading this, I learned this week that the DC wiring we use for the hydraulics is of a gauge that will support the 80A breaker. So if owners do change out their 50A to an 80A, nothing more electrically will need to be changed/upgraded in that circuit.
 
Great information and is likely the cause of my issue. Let me know where the 50A breaker is located (hopefully the same for all units) and where to source the 80A replacement breaker. TIA
 
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Jim Beletti

Well-known member
Great information, let me where the 50A breaker is located (hopefully the same for all units) and where to source the 80A replacement breaker
Not sure what Alliance brand and floor plan you have, but generally speaking, the DC mini-breakers will be located on a wall near the battery and hydraulics. There may be a number of breakers there. The one you're looking for has a heavy gauge red wire coming from it to the hydraulics.

Notes:
  • The 80A breakers don't come in the same form factor as the mini-breakers. So your approach in installation needs to be thought through
  • The 80A auto-resetting DC breaker can be a bit hard to find. I've always ordered mine from Amazon. Here's one
Disclaimer: In no way am I advocating that all Alliance owners need to swap out their hydraulics 50A mini-breaker for an 80A breaker. Very few owners will ever have a true need to make such a replacement. Finally, my method below is just that. It's "my" method of what I would do and have done before but it is not official Alliance guidance or advice.

What I would do if it were mine and what I have done with previous 5th wheels when I needed to do this swap...
  1. Purchase 80A breaker and proper gauge jumper wire with proper sized terminals plus 2 short screws to mount the breaker
  2. Shut off converter by flipping Converter AC breaker in breaker panel inside coach
  3. Shut off DC battery power by rotating DC power switch near mini-breakers
  4. Remove wires from 50A mini-breaker that feeds the hydraulics
  5. Connect the new mini-breaker to the wires removed from step 4, then mount breaker to wall with short screws
  6. Restore both converter and battery power and test hydraulic system for operation
Note that I have not done this on my Alliance. The above steps are combination of my memory of past experiences and some assumptions of how your Alliance may be wired. What you find on your Alliance coach may not match up exactly as I have written in the steps above. Use your head. You're replacing one breaker for another. It's a simple process.
 

Shelly S

Well-known member
At times when closing the kitchen or living slides, there will be a loss of power during operation. At first, I thought it was acting like a thermal switch operation, as it would reset in 15 - 20 seconds. Now I'm suspecting I may have a battery issue. Has anyone had this type of issue and knows the root cause? TIA
I have a 2022 valor and the same thing happens to me on the living room slide. I believe the valor slides are electric but not really sure about that. This issue has just started recently. It is not cold and this last time it happened I was still plugged into shore power. I have also noticed that my landing gear stalls out in the middle of raising it even when I am connected to shore power. When we first got the unit neither of these issues were present. I have checked for loose wires and all are tight. Thoughts????
 

Knuth123

Active member
I checked the batteries and they were good. I will have to check for a loose frame ground. This issue occurs if I am plugged into shore power and if I am only on battery power.
Have you corrected this issue yet? My 2022 Valor 40v13 is doing the same thing.
 

Shelly S

Well-known member
Have you corrected this issue yet? My 2022 Valor 40v13 is doing the same thing.
No I have not. It still happens and in some cases the inverter goes into alarm so I have to go out and turn the inverter off and then back on. Personally I think they have the inverter wired incorrectly and that is what causes the trip. All of my wires are tight.
 

Shelly S

Well-known member
No I have not. It still happens and in some cases the inverter goes into alarm so I have to go out and turn the inverter off and then back on. Personally I think they have the inverter wired incorrectly and that is what causes the trip. All of my wires are tight.
I asked for the schematics and of course they are top secret. I think the real issue is they have no idea how they wire one coach to the next.
 

Knuth123

Active member
Haha, I agree. I found the auto reset 50amp break that runs the hydraulic pump. Mine is wire seperate from the inverter. I have not tested it to see it it's tripping. I assume that is my issue as once it stops if I wait 10 seconds or so it will run again. But I have noticed after it trips it seems to run less time in between tripping again.

I am having some issue with my inverter right now. It blew the 300amp fuse. I plan to repair it tomorrow I will do some testing with my hydraulic pump then. I'll report back with with I find.
 

Oregon_Camper

Forum Admin
Staff member
Haha, I agree. I found the auto reset 50amp break that runs the hydraulic pump. Mine is wire seperate from the inverter. I have not tested it to see it it's tripping. I assume that is my issue as once it stops if I wait 10 seconds or so it will run again. But I have noticed after it trips it seems to run less time in between tripping again.

I am having some issue with my inverter right now. It blew the 300amp fuse. I plan to repair it tomorrow I will do some testing with my hydraulic pump then. I'll report back with with I find.
Do yourself a HUGE favor and dump that factory 50 amp breaker and install a Blue Sea 80 amp breaker. They are NOT cheap, but it will solve all your issues.
 

George

Well-known member
Thanks for sharing this. For those reading this, I learned this week that the DC wiring we use for the hydraulics is of a gauge that will support the 80A breaker. So if owners do change out their 50A to an 80A, nothing more electrically will need to be changed/upgraded in that circuit.
Hi Jim, I searched the forum about replacing this breaker and ran across your replies. My '24 310RL has 6AWG wiring for much of the high draw DC circuits. From the research I've done an 80A breaker may be too large for 6AWG. I would feel comfortable using a 60A but I've seen that a 55A breaker is what's recommended.
Has Alliance previously used larger gauge wire? Did you recommend an 80A because the hydraulic pump is not run for more than a minute or so at a time and the short run of wire can probably handle it?
Thanks
 

Jim Beletti

Well-known member
Hi Jim, I searched the forum about replacing this breaker and ran across your replies. My '24 310RL has 6AWG wiring for much of the high draw DC circuits. From the research I've done an 80A breaker may be too large for 6AWG. I would feel comfortable using a 60A but I've seen that a 55A breaker is what's recommended.
Has Alliance previously used larger gauge wire? Did you recommend an 80A because the hydraulic pump is not run for more than a minute or so at a time and the short run of wire can probably handle it?
Thanks
Hi George,

I can't speak for Alliance RV here. I can confirm that the ampacity of 6 AWG copper wire is a function of:
- Wire type
- Insulation type
- Length

In my experience, for high-current DC circuits, Welding Cable offers amazing ampacity. On my own RVs, where I've upgraded to an 80A DC breaker, I've always used welding cable. You can also buy various premade (with lugs) lengths on Amazon. Just be sure to know that 100% pure copper wire (not CCA) is being used, that you are ordering the proper length and that the pre-installed lugs have a hole diameter that will fit the fasteners in your coach and on the replacement breaker.

Disclaimer: In no way am I advocating that Alliance owners need to swap out their hydraulics 50A mini-breaker for an 80A breaker. Very few owners will ever have a true need to make such a replacement. Finally, my method and suggestions in this post are just that - "my" method and "my" suggestions of what I would do and have done before but it is not official Alliance guidance or advice.
 
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