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Solar power Disconnect Switch (Charge controllers will break)

RockDr896

Well-known member
I have a 370FB and currently storing the unit in a dark warehouse. The charge controller was confused by this and quickly drained my (3) 100 AH batteries. I hooked to a 115 plug and charged them back, however it made me consider what would I do if the solar charger fails? There is a 3 year warranty and things do break eventually. Currently there are 2 options. Climb on the roof and disconnect the panels. They are wired in parallel. The other option is to pull the two wires from the charge controller, but then I have 2 live wires to wire nut.

What I just installed was a Solar PV DC Disconnect switch. It was $114 and I got to buy a new tool to crimp the fittings used in solar setups...The main thing is now I can turn off the solar panels (Which doesn't shut off), without climbing on the roof or disconnecting wires. Some day, that charge controller will break. Here is the switch I installed. 1,000v x 64 amp. I hope this helps and yes, I did work with Jim Bonacci to make sure I knew the max ranges of the panels in order to size the switch. The panels only need a 30amp, but there is no such thing as over sizing!

https://www.amazon.com/Aims-Power-D...26-9570-6092c3e1aa8f&pd_rd_i=B07C8VF2J8&psc=1
 

Oregon_Camper

Forum Moderator
Staff member
Did you turn the battery disconnect off? That will stop batteries from draining while in storage. 100% agree on adding a solar disconnect...that is a must have in my mind.
 

RockDr896

Well-known member
Yes, but the "Solar Charger" continues to blink on and off and doesn't allow the batteries to go to sleep. That's why they drained down. Wiring order is Panels...Solar Charger...Inverter...
 

Oregon_Camper

Forum Moderator
Staff member
Yes, but the "Solar Charger" continues to blink on and off and doesn't allow the batteries to go to sleep. That's why they drained down. Wiring order is Panels...Solar Charger...Inverter...
How long was your system in storage? Draining 3x100 amp hour batteries (assuming Lithium batteries) would take a long time. Wondering if something else was drawing power...perhaps frig? Inverter left on?
 

RockDr896

Well-known member
Nope...battery disconnect kills everything except the solar panels. I just don't think many people put their RV's in a dark warehouse, so this may just be something new. Either way, I can now isolate the panels very easily and it took 30 min to do.
 

Oregon_Camper

Forum Moderator
Staff member
Nope...battery disconnect kills everything except the solar panels. I just don't think many people put their RV's in a dark warehouse, so this may just be something new. Either way, I can now isolate the panels very easily and it took 30 min to do.
Great upgrade! I will be adding ~3,000 watts to ours, so just about all of the factory items will be removed.
 

RockDr896

Well-known member
So an update, since my installation of the isolation solar panel switch. My inverter just bricked (Doesn't work). Had I not installed the solar panel isolation switch, I would have been on the roof disconnecting the panels, or removing wires from the charger in 95 degree heat. When calling Alliance, I had to take pictures of my multi meter and have all sources of power turned off. Having the isolation switch made the entire experience just a bit easier to deal with the problem, when I had planned on doing something entirely different. I have the solar plus package on a 370FB. Here is the link again for what I installed.
https://www.amazon.com/Aims-Power-D...26-9570-6092c3e1aa8f&pd_rd_i=B07C8VF2J8&psc=1
Shout out to Jason at Alliance for hanging with me and continually getting me fast answers when his knowledge base made him bring in the big brains that knew more possible ways to maybe fix it.
The current state:
Luckily I watched the most recent owner empowerment video and it was said that the inverter could be bypassed. Jason was unaware of that, but when I mentioned it, he got the answer quickly for me, because the video doesn't tell you how to make that happen.
 

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