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Slide Topper Attachment

Meanjean73

Well-known member
The rail that attaches to the wall has several screws that pulled out. Is it safe to assume these are just attached to the thin side wall and nothing backing the screws? Not sure what the correct way to fix this? Rivets? Larger screws?

I saw the video online talking about wall thickness and attaching items to the inside but I just figured if the rv was intended to have these as an add on then they would have something more to screw into?
 

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RockDr896

Well-known member
I hear you. I find myself walking around my rig and up sizing screws to achieve greater clamping strength the past three years. The fine thread screws Alliance is using, is not doing the job at all. Clamping strength is the issue and really highlights the short comings in the engineering dept in my opinion. If up sizing an area with a larger self tapping screw doesn't hold, then a larger wood screw or in the interior, a drywall solution is working for me.
 

Meanjean73

Well-known member
I hear you. I find myself walking around my rig and up sizing screws to achieve greater clamping strength the past three years. The fine thread screws Alliance is using, is not doing the job at all. Clamping strength is the issue and really highlights the short comings in the engineering dept in my opinion. If up sizing an area with a larger self tapping screw doesn't hold, then a larger wood screw or in the interior, a drywall solution is working for me.
I pulled all of the screws out and upsize to a size 12 by three-quarter inch stainless sheet metal screws and use sealant around each screw.
The Robertson screws don’t seem to have much thread depth.

Another question, I know they used butyl tape behind, but would it benefit adding sealant across the top of the strip to prevent water intrusion?
 

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UFF

Well-known member
I had an awning do the same on a toy hauler. I end up drilling out and using those expandable rivets on it. I will say it held up for the three more years I owned it. So if the bigger screws don’t work you still have options. I still carry the extra rivets with me just in case.

I don’t believe adding silicon across the top sure wouldn’t hurt anything. That’s what I did. But that’s just my opinion.
 

Meanjean73

Well-known member
I had an awning do the same on a toy hauler. I end up drilling out and using those expandable rivets on it. I will say it held up for the three more years I owned it. So if the bigger screws don’t work you still have options. I still carry the extra rivets with me just in case.

I don’t believe adding silicon across the top sure wouldn’t hurt anything. That’s what I did. But that’s just my opinion.
You remember the name of those rivets? They have the 3 legs that expand correct? I found these?
Amazon rivets
 

Lantley

Prominent Member
When attaching awning, or some other heavy item to the exterior. My thought is why play around with it. Through bolt it! and be done with it.
I can find someway to disguise bolt on the interior side (picture, sticker , rosette, vent , blank plate, fake outlet whatever) vs. using some flimsy, hollow wall anchor or rivet.
 

Jwtsg

Active member
You remember the name of those rivets? They have the 3 legs that expand correct? I found these?
Amazon rivets
Good morning,,,for your consideration: had this issue on another mfgr. awning on a used tow behind & those are the rivets we used,,,mfgr & service dept recommended them, and advised we use the same procedures, sealants, & treatments UFF above advised. .Travelled in that trailer a lot for 5 years with no problems after that,,,,I too carry some extra rivets just in case,,,
In the Paradigm general discussion forum there is a good discussion that reflec5s the shear & pulout data for the rivets. They have a rating on them for pullout and shear Here is the link for your consideration
An entry by George in mid Jan 2025 provided info. Believe it wb good info to assist your decision.
Good luck & hope this helps! 👍🌞🍀
 
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Bozo

Prominent Member
I pulled all of the screws out and upsize to a size 12 by three-quarter inch stainless sheet metal screws and use sealant around each screw.
The Robertson screws don’t seem to have much thread depth.

Another question, I know they used butyl tape behind, but would it benefit adding sealant across the top of the strip to prevent water intrusion?
I would add a bead across the top for my own piece of mind.
 

Meanjean73

Well-known member
When attaching awning, or some other heavy item to the exterior. My thought is why play around with it. Through bolt it! and be done with it.
I can find someway to disguise bolt on the interior side (picture, sticker , rosette, vent , blank plate, fake outlet whatever) vs. using some flimsy, hollow wall anchor or rivet.
I would be concerned about the wall crushing, isn’t it just foam inside unless there is some aluminum structure near by?
 

Meanjean73

Well-known member
Good morning,,,for your consideration: had this issue on another mfgr. awning on a used tow behind & those are the rivets we used,,,mfgr & service dept recommended them, and advised we use the same procedures, sealants, & treatments UFF above advised. .Travelled in that trailer a lot for 5 years with no problems after that,,,,I too carry some extra rivets just in case,,,
In the Paradigm general discussion forum there is a good discussion that reflec5s the shear & pulout data for the rivets. They have a rating on them for pullout and shear Here is the link for your consideration
An entry by George in mid Jan 2025 provided info. Believe it wb good info to assist your decision.
Good luck & hope this helps! 👍🌞🍀
I’ll see how the larger screws go and if they pull out these will be my next move. I would also think using a polyurethane adhesive instead of butyl tape would help give more adhesion to the rv?
 

Meanjean73

Well-known member
Can't make this stuff up! Figured I should check the other slide toppers today. The had several snapped off screws, self tapping screws where the Allen set screw goes, misc screws into the RV top rail. Screws going into nothing, guess they wanted to make it "look" like it was done correctly. I sure hope the previous owner didn't pay for this type of quality work!
Pulled everything down and spent several hours retracting broken screws and cleaning up the threads for the Allen set screws.
Ok, rant over.
 

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M and E

Prominent Member
Can't make this stuff up! Figured I should check the other slide toppers today. The had several snapped off screws, self tapping screws where the Allen set screw goes, misc screws into the RV top rail. Screws going into nothing, guess they wanted to make it "look" like it was done correctly. I sure hope the previous owner didn't pay for this type of quality work!
Pulled everything down and spent several hours retracting broken screws and cleaning up the threads for the Allen set screws.
Ok, rant over.
That’s pretty crappy. Shade tree mechanic stuff.
 

RockDr896

Well-known member
Can't make this stuff up! Figured I should check the other slide toppers today. The had several snapped off screws, self tapping screws where the Allen set screw goes, misc screws into the RV top rail. Screws going into nothing, guess they wanted to make it "look" like it was done correctly. I sure hope the previous owner didn't pay for this type of quality work!
Pulled everything down and spent several hours retracting broken screws and cleaning up the threads for the Allen set screws.
Ok, rant over.
How did you get the retracted screws out? I need a good method, since snapped screws have been an issue both inside and outside my rig. I have been able to over come them so far. I have had no luck trying to drill them out, when they are snapped so far into the hole. Please share what you did.....
 

Meanjean73

Well-known member
How did you get the retracted screws out? I need a good method, since snapped screws have been an issue both inside and outside my rig. I have been able to over come them so far. I have had no luck trying to drill them out, when they are snapped so far into the hole. Please share what you did.....
I pulled the brackets off and put them under a drill press. Did my best to drill a small hole in the broken screw. That worked a few times but on some I flipped the bar over and put a new screw hole on the back side of the slider bar. I made sure to over size the hole in the bracket so the new screw wasn’t grabbing the bracket, just the slider bar. This also gave room for slight adjustment if the holes in the bar didn’t line up perfectly with the bracket.
I used 12x3/4” self tapping screws with the self tapping end cut off, screws need to be 1/2”. I pre drilled the hole into the bar with a drill and small bit.
Hopefully that makes sense?
 
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RockDr896

Well-known member
I pulled the brackets off and put them under a drill press. Did my best to drill a small hole in the broken screw. That worked a few times but on some I flipped the bar over and put a new screw hole on the back side of the slider bar. I made sure to over size the hole in the bracket so the new screw wasn’t grabbing the bracket, just the slider bar. This also gave room for slight adjustment if the holes in the bar didn’t line up perfectly with the bracket.
I used 12x3/4” self tapping screws with the self tapping end cut off, screws need to be 1/2”. I pre drilled the hole into the bar with a drill and small bit.
Hopefully that makes sense?
Cutting off the self tapping portion I have not tried yet. I carry around quite the selection of screws and bolts. What method did you use to cut off the tapping part of the screw? I am guessing grinder?
 

Meanjean73

Well-known member
Cutting off the self tapping portion I have not tried yet. I carry around quite the selection of screws and bolts. What method did you use to cut off the tapping part of the screw? I am guessing grinder?
Yes, any grinder will work or a hack saw. I only did that because I wanted something larger than the previously used #8 and #10, both snapped the heads off. Figured #12 would have some better strength.
 
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