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Lost Power Kitchen AC Outlets

George

Well-known member
Molex is the blue taped connector.
 

Dan54

Well-known member
Sorry I should have caught that in your original question. 😕 In that case I'd take down the toaster or coffee maker outlet furtherest from the TV first.
There's also the last outlet before it goes to the slide-out.
Then there will be a 120v Molex connector for slide-out removal hidden in your base cabinets somewhere.
BTW - Seems that'd be pushing an RV 15A circuit to run both. I'm pretty sure Brenda has had trouble running ANY 2 high draw appliances simultaneously.
All 4 affected outlets are on a slide out. The kitchen slide out with the fridge, range, tv, etc. I guess I’ll go outside & look underneath.
 

Dan54

Well-known member
Sorry I should have caught that in your original question. 😕 In that case I'd take down the toaster or coffee maker outlet furtherest from the TV first.
There's also the last outlet before it goes to the slide-out.
Then there will be a 120v Molex connector for slide-out removal hidden in your base cabinets somewhere.
BTW - Seems that'd be pushing an RV 15A circuit to run both. I'm pretty sure Brenda has had trouble running ANY 2 high draw appliances simultaneously.

Looked thru all cabinets in that slide out. Couldn’t find a connector
 

George

Well-known member
Looked thru all cabinets in that slide out. Couldn’t find a connector
All this and we may be comparing apples and oranges. What model do you have?
On mine the one in the photo is hidden behind a false wall in the bottom of the cabinet next to fridge. But that one only supplies power from the dishwasher prep under kitchen island to the fridge ice maker.
I went out to look at mine and there's another false wall in the cabinet to the left of the stove. There are also 2 cables (looks like they're probably 120v) going from outside underneath the slide up to that area but I did not remove the panel to verify. I bet there're 2 more Molex there in that cabinet.
 
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2 Allies

Prominent Member
If your other outlets only went off when you tripped the GFCI,then you are right. It is not the GFI circuit. I could be wrong, but it seems the ones not working are related just not to the GFCI
 

Jwtsg

Well-known member
I guess I’ll try taking out the GFCI & wiring the leads together but I’m thinking it’s a dead end since tripping the GFCI disconnects all the other outlets in the chain. Maybe pulling the dead outlets apart to check for issues would be more fruitful although maybe a broken wire somewhere?
My $.02 think you have good Info above,,,,,believe it May be a disconnected, broken or grounded hot wire.The GFIC’s are typically daisy chained as discussed above. Had a similar issue in a past trailer & turned out to be a grounded hot lead, but no indicators in fuse panel. & impacted the GFIC’s similarly . Tracked each junction box,,, Had to check each junction box, pulled the fuse box cover & traced each circuit,,finally found cuplrit abandoned that run,,,pulled a replacement run & tied into daisy chain circuit back into behind fuse box. PIA,,,but was covered under warranty cuz we discovered it after a PDI @ dealer showed operational, but after dealer delivery & set up was non functionsl. Hope this helps,,,good luck👍🍀🌞
 

Turfengineer

Active member
My 32RLS had the same outlets wired through the GFCI in the bathroom. It would actually be the outlet to trip, no the ones by the oven. My TV was unaffected. I bypassed the bathroom outlet and haven’t had an issue since.

I see a lot of good tips in this thread, but my advice would be to not assume logic in the actual wiring of your rig.
 
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