We are outfitting our NEW Paradigm 340RL before it is picked up from the dealer. It comes with one lead acid battery. I’m thinking we should either add another lead acid or switch to something like a 100 AH lithium. We are on the road 5-8 hours between stops & I want to have enough juice to keep the 12v fridge operating while traveling & thru the night if we arrive late. We do have the factory solar panel, not sure of the specs. Are lithium’s safe? I’ve heard the stories of tablets, EV’s etc spontaneously combusting. Thanks
Lithium vs lead acid
- Thread starter Dan54
- Start date
I would advise using 2 batteries if you are going the 100ah route. I prefer LFP over FLA or AGM, but your usage will determine which would be better for your use. If you plan on staying off the grid for long periods (like boondocking), more battery is needed and LFP will be much more preferable vs FLA/AGM. If you are using solar to charge your batteries, LFP wins there as well. If you will rarely be using the batteries for living and will spend most of your time plugged into shore power, it may not be worth the cost of LFP over FLA, but AGM is not a lot cheaper these days. The LFP used in RVs is very safe and stable. I am not be concerned with that myself.
Thanks for the response. Could you tell me what LFP & FLA stand for? From my initial search it seems like most batteries are made in China. Which brands would you consider?
I would consider LiTime at the lower end. SOK at the more expensive mark. Both are well reviewed. Will Prouse has a youtube channel where he tears down different solar equipment, including batteries, to rate them.
My picks for the price (these are >200ah, and they both make ~100ah batteries if you don't need a lot of battery runtime)
LiTime 12V 230Ah Plus Deep Cycle LiFePO4 Battery with Low-Temp Protect
LiTime 12V 230Ah LTCP LiFePO4 battery with 2944Wh usable energy has low-temperature protection. Weighing only 45.22lbs.
www.litime.com
SOK 12V 206Ah LiFePO4 Battery Bluetooth&Built-in heater | SOK Battery
Restock on 10th April. Latest V8 version Bluetooth BMS, top battery cells balance function.Bluetooth&Built-in Heater Function SK12V206H designed for cold weather using! Can safely charge at temperatures down to -20°C (-4°F) by a standard charger or solar charger. The heater pads which draws...
www.us.sokbattery.com
LFP - Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePo4)
FLA - flooded lead acid (have to maintain water levels, only do to draw down to about 50% before risking some capacity limiting damage)
The posts look different. If the rv is wired for lead acid do the connectors need to be changed or are adapters available?I would consider LiTime at the lower end. SOK at the more expensive mark. Both are well reviewed. Will Prouse has a youtube channel where he tears down different solar equipment, including batteries, to rate them.
My picks for the price (these are >200ah, and they both make ~100ah batteries if you don't need a lot of battery runtime)
LiTime 12V 230Ah Plus Deep Cycle LiFePO4 Battery with Low-Temp Protect
LiTime 12V 230Ah LTCP LiFePO4 battery with 2944Wh usable energy has low-temperature protection. Weighing only 45.22lbs.SOK 12V 206Ah LiFePO4 Battery Bluetooth&Built-in heater | SOK Battery
Restock on 10th April. Latest V8 version Bluetooth BMS, top battery cells balance function.Bluetooth&Built-in Heater Function SK12V206H designed for cold weather using! Can safely charge at temperatures down to -20°C (-4°F) by a standard charger or solar charger. The heater pads which draws...
LFP - Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePo4)
FLA - flooded lead acid (have to maintain water levels, only do to draw down to about 50% before risking some capacity limiting damage)
Generally the way the RV connects to the batteries is the same, at least they were on my Paradigm and my current rig. I haven't seen the old automotive style terminals on an fifth wheel in a long time. Post up a picture of your battery terminals / posts and I can tell you for sure though. Worst case, cut off the terminals and re-terminate them - Autozone, Oreilly's, Lowes, or Home Depot might have a crimper you can borrow or rent if you don't have a large enough set.
FLD is flooded - Entry Level
AGM is Absorbent Glass Mat - Mid Level
LFP is Lithium - Highest end...great for boondockers
Are you going to boondock or just drive from RV park to RV park. If driving from park to park...2 AGM's will be more that enough. If you plan to toss in 3-4 nights of boondocking evey now and then, I would recommend two 100amp hour Lithium batteries.
Here is a video I did ~ 5 years ago (different RV) explaining the differnces bewtween battery types.
I would bet it is not. The batteries are put in by the dealer generally. There is at least one battery in it when delivered because it is used by the brakes, but I don't think it stays with the trailer. I would expect yours to have 2 when it is delivered. It is rare for a dealer to put LFP in without an upcharge. They typically put in dual-use "deep-cycle"-ish batteries unless you ask for something different.
BryanValRox
Well-known member
Dan54, regarding your concern about having enough juice to keep your 12 volt fridge running while traveling.
Keep in mind regardless of battery type chosen, your tow vehicle will be charging your RV House battery while going down the road. This is accomplished though a specific pin on your light cord hooked from the RV to the Truck.
Also, you will receive the benefit of your solar panel on the roof charging the house battery. So, you really should not have a capacity concern while traveling after the sun goes down.
Unless you ordered the upgraded factory solar package with Lithium batteries, you will 100% have a non lithium battery installed by the dealer.
So does the battery potentially receive a charge from the truck & the solar panel while traveling or does the truck charging system override the solar charging?
BryanValRox
Well-known member
The battery would receive a charge from both sources concurrently.
One other consideration if your unit is equipped with disc brakes, the DC/DC charger trigger wire is normally attached to one of the trailer running light circuits, so it is necessary to tow with your truck lights on to ensure that the DC/DC is activated to provide the charging from the truck circuit.
One other consideration if your unit is equipped with disc brakes, the DC/DC charger trigger wire is normally attached to one of the trailer running light circuits, so it is necessary to tow with your truck lights on to ensure that the DC/DC is activated to provide the charging from the truck circuit.
BryanValRox
Well-known member
Without trying to get to deep into a theory of operation discussion here, I should also mention that the Solar Charger would be sensing the battery voltage and it would adjust its output accordingly.
The trucks charging system would be doing the same.
Point being the charging rate/rates are varied on the needs of the battery.
The trucks charging system would be doing the same.
Point being the charging rate/rates are varied on the needs of the battery.
I always tow with the lights on so that won’t be an adjustment for me. Makes me curious tho, I don’t remember towing with the lights on to activate charging being mentioned in the truck owners manual (2017 Ford F350), but I will check the manual again. It’s been a while.
BryanValRox
Well-known member
Dan, yes totally agree lights on for safety!
My comment around the lights on to activate charging is related to the Disc Brake option on the trailer. Your truck will charge the trailer regardless if you have the standard magnetic brake option.(to the best of my knowledge, an assuming the circuit is functioning. My previous Ford came with the relay and fuse for 7 pin charge circuit loose in the glove box, I had to install it in the fuse block to make my 7 pin charge circuit work)
When disc brakes are speced, it drives the additional of a DC/DC charger, they place this charger in the charge circuit and trigger it(turn it on) via the running light circuit in the 7 pin junction box. It is my understanding the addition of this charger is two fold, 1 Acts as an isolator to prevent discharging the truck battery when not running and 2. To provided a more controlled charging rate to the coach battery because of the added draw from the disc brake hydraulic pump.
I caution everyone about the lights being on with the Disc Brake option only because there in no mention of it in the Paradigm Owners Manual and if someone forgot to turn the lights on OR left them in the automatic mode, you would not pass current to the battery and could end up without trailer brakes.
What is the reasoning for the Alliance to have the DC/DC charger for the disc brakes when other trailers do not have a DC/Dc charger with disc brakes? I am not at all doubting you, but my Paradigm had disc brakes and did not have a DC/DC charger in it either. Maybe it is a newer thing, but my 22 SOB doesn't have a DC/DC charger for the disc brakes, either.
I understand what you’re saying about a trailer with disc brakes. I’m pretty sure mine aren’t disc. I bought the trailer off the lot & I’m not sure how you tell if the dealer spec’d any options when they placed the order. No window sticker like a car. Don’t imagine a dealer would pick that option. But back to what I was saying on how to activate trailer charging on a 2017+ Ford Super Duty. I looked it up - you need to hook up the trailer & press the brake pedal to initiate charging. I remember owners on the Ford forum not being able to detect current because they were testing an attached trailer but had not yet pressed the brake pedal. Anyway…..😴
BryanValRox
Well-known member
Thanks for sharing the instructions to activate Ford Trailer Charging, I will certainly keep it in mind when trying to help others out.