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Lithium Battery

RockDr896

Prominent Member
RockDr896,
So you do not have a separate solar disconnect switch? Our 385fl came with a main battery disconnect and a separate solar disconnect. When I stored my unit in Sept with a 86% SOC on my 300ah lithium, I pulled it out 2 weeks ago and it was at 85% SOC. Do you have lead acid batteries?
I learned my lesson in 2023, when I bought the rig. I went round and round with Alliance, because the NEC requires a complete disconnect between the panels and the rest of the system. Alliance told me, the RV industry did not adopt that part of the electrical code...LOL. I installed my own and have not had a problem since. It' also nice, because it isolates the panels when tracing electrical issues. Solar panels cannot be shut off...all you can do is isolate them. I guess maybe they have reconsidered their stance on this $89 fix...good to hear. I have three 100Ah lithium batteries
 

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George

Prominent Member
I don't know when but Alliance puts a disconnect on the solar cable now Thank goodness.
I added the labels.
Disconnects.jpeg
 

RockDr896

Prominent Member
I don't know when but Alliance puts a disconnect on the solar cable now Thank goodness.
I added the labels.
View attachment 4864
and since the trailer is not truly grounded and grounded to the frame, the possibility of a hot skin issue is real. Maybe rare, but possible. Shortly after that, they also did a recall at the roof penetration area. They had used wire nuts at that point. Perhaps, they listened and quickly started correcting the issues...a feather in their cap for listening and taking action!!
 

RockDr896

Prominent Member
Shore power ground is not connected to the frame? 😮😮😮😮 I didn't know that. I'm shocked.😉
I am not sure about that, but I would guess you are grounded on shore power. Smarter people here can answer that. While boone docking or traveling down the road, you would be grounded to the frame.

I think you are grounded to the frame with DC, even on shore power....again...smarter people can chime in on this as well.
 

Flyer32RLS

Well-known member
I bought my rig in Dec and had to fight the additional issue of parking a solar package in a dark warehouse. The batteries were drained, because of solar panels not having a breaker to shut them off....so batteries were drained....and I could not wake them up. So I had backed up and married to my 5th wheel hook up, but then jacks would not work. So luckily, I released my 5th wheel jaws and turned the truck around. Hooked my jumper cables to my batteries and that woke them up on a 28 degree day and charged them enough. I am not recommending this approach, but I am saying I survived it, nothing caught fire, nothing was damaged, and the trip was not delayed. I am offering this, as a caveman's approach...hell, I have insurance...LOL...did someone say "Camp Fire talk"?
Same question as 2 Allies. We bought our 32RLS 9 Sep and it has battery disconnect and solar disconnect in forward storage area. No, you can not turn the solar panels off. You can just stop them producing any useful power.
 

fireman0175

Active member
Finally... I got rid of those thirsty boat anchor wet cell batteries and replaced them with a couple Redodo Group 24 12.8v 100Ah in parallel. By the weigh (ha ha), they weigh in at 22 lbs each versus 200lbs each on the 6v wet cells. Okay, I exaggerated but my back is much happier!
My question is after I change the convertor panel to Li and the Solar controller to lithium, with fully charged batteries, is it okay to plug the Avenue in to shore power and walk away for the winter? Or should I just open the negative blade I have installed on the battery box and leave it as is? I was thinking maybe a 1amp NOCO battery tender, but not sure if they work well with LiFePO4 batteries even though they have a lithium setting...
 

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Ox262

Active member
I have a Redodo 140ah battery, and as I recall, they recommend storing the batteries at 50% charge for long term storage.
 
I'm interested in putting a larger LiFePO4 battery in the open pass-through of a 262RB for security instead of sitting on the tongue. How hard is it to pull the lead wires and terminals back?
Anyone with a similar unit willing to share the experience of this mod?
Pics appreciated.
 

Long Islander

Active member
I moved our batteries into the pass-through storage as well. My original battery up front had two red wires on the positive terminal and one short black wire that attached to the frame. Sorry I forgot the gauge of the wires. One of the red wires (the thinner one) came from the solar controller and the other red one (thicker) was attached to the little copper busbar that is behind the black removeable cover that hides the pump. I had to cut of the lugs off both wires. Then cut the wire ties that hold the wires to the frame and to where they went up into the pass through compartment. I was able to then push the two red wires up a few inches up and I easily found with my hand by reaching behind the white panel with water valves and such. Then gently pull them back into the storage area. You'll have to trim them back and crimp on new lugs so they can be attached to the positive terminal on the battery. I then took the old black ground wire from up front, I bolted it to an exposed piece of frame inside the pass through and attached the other end to the battery.

I configured our trailer to have more than two batteries so I used two additional busbars (one positive and one negative) so I can connect multiple batteries, but you don't need to do that if you've only got one or two batteries. I've had these batteries for many years. They were installed in our last trailer. At that time the larger capacity batteries were insanely expensive, so I figured that I be using multiple 100Ah batteries. Our trailer has 460 watt solar panel and I'm amazed how quickly it charges the batteries back to 100%, so I honestly don't think that I'll be adding any more batteries. I hope this helps
 
I moved our batteries into the pass-through storage as well. My original battery up front had two red wires on the positive terminal and one short black wire that attached to the frame. Sorry I forgot the gauge of the wires. One of the red wires (the thinner one) came from the solar controller and the other red one (thicker) was attached to the little copper busbar that is behind the black removeable cover that hides the pump. I had to cut of the lugs off both wires. Then cut the wire ties that hold the wires to the frame and to where they went up into the pass through compartment. I was able to then push the two red wires up a few inches up and I easily found with my hand by reaching behind the white panel with water valves and such. Then gently pull them back into the storage area. You'll have to trim them back and crimp on new lugs so they can be attached to the positive terminal on the battery. I then took the old black ground wire from up front, I bolted it to an exposed piece of frame inside the pass through and attached the other end to the battery.

I configured our trailer to have more than two batteries so I used two additional busbars (one positive and one negative) so I can connect multiple batteries, but you don't need to do that if you've only got one or two batteries. I've had these batteries for many years. They were installed in our last trailer. At that time the larger capacity batteries were insanely expensive, so I figured that I be using multiple 100Ah batteries. Our trailer has 460 watt solar panel and I'm amazed how quickly it charges the batteries back to 100%, so I honestly don't think that I'll be adding any more batteries. I hope this helps
Very helpful and much appreciated.
Thank you!
 
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