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Jacks trip the breaker.

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Meanjean73

Well-known member
I bypassed that 20 amp breaker I installed and went directly to the battery, back to the factory location/setup and now the inverter is making noise. The low voltage alarm for the refrigerator went away, so those dual resettable breakers must do more than just the solar panel.

I also have power going into the battery
 

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BryanValRox

BryanValRox

Elite Member
Meanjean73 said:
I bypassed that 20 amp breaker I installed and went directly to the battery, back to the factory location/setup and now the inverter is making noise. The low voltage alarm for the refrigerator went away, so those dual resettable breakers must do more than just the solar panel.

I also have power going into the battery
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Glad you have power back.

So was the 20 amp tripped again or is it defective? Either way, it has been established that it isn’t rated properly.
 
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Oregon_Camper

Oregon_Camper

Forum Admin
Staff member
Meanjean73 said:
........Side note, you can host 10 people in a Paradigm 310 for drinks!
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Meanjean73

Well-known member
Looking online it says for 80 amps a larger wire is needed for this and the factory 6awg is too small?

Did you replace the wires for the pump in addition to the breaker?
 
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Meanjean73

Well-known member
Bummer I have to spend more money and time to fix something that is a known issue.

Email to Lippert said the same thing, 80 amp breaker and 4 awg.

Are the 2025 wired correctly?
 
Oregon_Camper

Oregon_Camper

Forum Admin
Staff member
Meanjean73 said:
Bummer I have to spend more money and time to fix something that is a known issue.

Email to Lippert said the same thing, 80 amp breaker and 4 awg.
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Normally I am a stickler for proper wire guage, but in this case you're only running the jacks for 30-45 seconds and the 80 amp breaker is for the surge...it will not run at 80 amps. I did not move mine to 4AWG and never had an issue. Now, if you have something using 80 amps for an extended period of time...then of course using 4AWG (or even 2/0) would be my recommendation.
 
BryanValRox

BryanValRox

Elite Member
Can’t disagree, and will offer that it is alway important to understand the circuit in its entirety.
Many things factor into wire size selection.
To name a few, device load, voltage, circuit length, voltage drop, insulation rating, size of wire bundle, load duration and termination,and likely some others I missed.
Wiring electrical modification should be well thought out.
 
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Meanjean73

Well-known member
Oregon_Camper said:
Normally I am a stickler for proper wire guage, but in this case you're only running the jacks for 30-45 seconds and the 80 amp breaker is for the surge...it will not run at 80 amps. I did not move mine to 4AWG and never had an issue. Now, if you have something using 80 amps for an extended period of time...then of course using 4AWG (or even 2/0) would be my recommendation.
Click to expand...
I changed the wire to 4 gauge from the bus bar to the pump (and 80 amp breaker). Even changed the negative to 4 gauge.

When I retract I’m still seeing amps over 80. In the 90s. This does not trip the breaker but makes me think something is wrong? Maybe that’s normal? When I extend the jacks I see 6-10 amps (this is all being read from the battery shunt)

The change to larger wire did seem to lower the amp draw vs the 6 gauge wire while in operation.
 
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Meanjean73

Well-known member
Update. Slide retract max amp was 60. Retract rear jacks, held about 81 with a peak at 90.
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Slides and jacks seem much faster after the change over to larger wires. Helps when it’s not constantly tripping the breaker.
 
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