Jacks trip the breaker.

[Meanjean73]

When I run the jacks in or the slides in the system trips. I see my amps go up on my battery shunt to over 100. The self resetting break trips, then resets so I can finish retracting the jacks/slides.

Do they go bad or is there something causing too high of amps in the system.

Called Lippert help line, they pointed to low voltage equals higher amp draw. They think it’s my $100 made in China batteries.
I check voltage on the pump and it’s about the same as the battery when running.

It’s the second one down from the top.

Weird thing is the circuit breaker I circled trips too? It’s doing it own thing and not even attached to the same bus bar?

I’m wondering if my wiring I did before the battery is the issue?

 

[BryanValRox]

When I run the jacks in or the slides in the system trips. I see my amps go up on my battery shunt to over 100. The self resetting break trips, then resets so I can finish retracting the jacks/slides.

Do they go bad or is there something causing too high of amps in the system.

Called Lippert help line, they pointed to low voltage equals higher amp draw. They think it’s my $100 made in China batteries.
I check voltage on the pump and it’s about the same as the battery when running.

It’s the second one down from the top.

Weird thing is the circuit breaker I circled trips too? It’s doing it own thing and not even attached to the same bus bar?

I’m wondering if my wiring I did before the battery is the issue?

So, first off let’s get some additional context on your system.
1. What is the temperature where you are located?(That the Rv is exposed to)
2. Confirm your jack/slide breaker is the second one down on the bottom buss bar
3. Confirm the rating on the small jack/slide breaker , you will likely need to remove it to find the rating.
4. Confirm the rating on your newly installed breaker.

As outside temperatures go down the hydraulic oil in the system thickens and becomes more difficult to pump, this cause higher amp draw and is likely what is tripping your small breaker.
I can‘t see the rating on your larger breaker, but I think you listed it as 20 amp previously. Given this breaker is feeding your small copper buss bar, it is understandable that it is tripping during operation as it would be way undersized to operate properly.

 

[Meanjean73]

1. It's 40 ish in the shop this morning.
2. I traced the pump power wire to the second one down
3. Not sure I follow what breaker you're referring to. The factory on on the bus bar for the hydro pump?
4. The slide breaker is a 20 amp and only feeds the small stand alone bus bar on the bottom. I traced the wires to the solar charge controller. The 20 amp breaker was not there before and if the factory resetting break is in place I don't think there is a need for it?

 

[BryanValRox]

1. It's 40 ish in the shop this morning.
2. I traced the pump power wire to the second one down
3. Not sure I follow what breaker you're referring to. The factory on on the bus bar for the hydro pump?
4. The slide breaker is a 20 amp and only feeds the small stand alone bus bar on the bottom. I traced the wires to the solar charge controller. The 20 amp breaker was not there before and if the factory resetting break is in place I don't think there is a need for it?

Ok,
1. The temperature is driving higher amp draw.
2. The wire that goes to the pump from the 2 position buss small resetable breaker, what is that rating? Lippert calls out 50- 100 amps on the pump circuit.
3. If the Black Square Breaker is only 20 amps it is way undersized. That circuit is feeding your 2 position buss. You are trying to feed a 50-100 amp circuit thru a 20 amp breaker.

 

[UFF]

Had same issues. Here is what alliance sent me.

 

[Oregon_Camper]

You will fight with this until you replace the factory breaker. I replaced mine with a Blue Sea 80 amp breaker and it has never popped since. With prior factory breaker it was popping 1-2 times EACH time I would raise legs.

Don't try to save a few $$ and buy the cheap knockoff breakers. I only use Blue Sea and have never had any issues.

 

[RoadJunkie]

I thought THIS Amazon breaker evaluation was interesting and in-line with Jim's last paragraph:

 

[UFF]

I guess I should have gave you all 3 pages. Not that it matters much. Summary do away with small circuit breaker and install 80amp one (good quality). Also you should up the gage of wire to 4 gauge.

 

[Meanjean73]

Not sure I like lithium for winter camping. It’s 24 outside on our first trip. Checked the batteries and they are dead. If I recall they have a low temp cutoff? Separate issue than the jacks but this first trip has had some bumps

 

[Meanjean73]

I guess I should have gave you all 3 pages. Not that it matters much. Summary do away with small circuit breaker and install 80amp one (good quality). Also you should up the gage of wire to 4 gauge.

View attachment 4474
View attachment 4475
View attachment 4476

That helps, easy fix.

 

[BryanValRox]

Not sure I like lithium for winter camping. It’s 24 outside on our first trip. Checked the batteries and they are dead. If I recall they have a low temp cutoff? Separate issue than the jacks but this first trip has had some bumps

Sorry your first trip is having some hiccups!
I am a bit confused on what your shunt display is telling you.
I am assuming 0 % state of charge. But I also see a voltage of 11.26 and a discharge of 12.34 amps.

Curious, are boon docking or hooked to a pedestal? You indicated that the batteries were dead, Is your lighting and furnace working?

If your on a pedestal, I would expect the voltage from the converter to providing 13.6 plus, so that conflicts with 11.26.
If your boon docking, and it is a decent day, your solar should be provided a charge rate of @ 13 plus.

lithium batteries can and do have thermal management devices built in, so as you said that could be impacting your values.

Does you shunt display require any programming to match your battery specifications?

Just some random thoughts observed from your pictures.

 

[Oregon_Camper]

Not sure I like lithium for winter camping. It’s 24 outside on our first trip. Checked the batteries and they are dead. If I recall they have a low temp cutoff? Separate issue than the jacks but this first trip has had some bumps

Short answer..Lithium will provide power down to near zero degrees. The BMS in the battery will not allow it to charge until the temps are ~33F.
If you have access to 120v a small heater (on a timer) will allow the battery compartment to stay warm. Do not use heater if you don't have Lithium.

For a LONGER answer, feel free to watch the video I did on this topic.

 

[Meanjean73]

I’m hooked to 50 amp power. I assumed since it’s 24 outside the BMS shut the batteries charging system down. I don’t know why they discharged if I’m hooked to power. The shunt did require some programming.

We have everything working inside except the fridge, it’s giving an E3 code, low power?

I don’t know what’s going on? I put a small space heater inside the battery compartment to warm the space up. Maybe then it can charge?

 

[Oregon_Camper]

I’m hooked to 50 amp power. I assumed since it’s 24 outside the BMS shut the batteries down. I don’t know why they discharged if I’m hooked to power. The shunt did require some programming.

We have everything working inside except the fridge, it’s giving an E3 code, low power?

I don’t know what’s going on? I put a small space heater inside the battery compartment to warm the space up. Maybe then it can charge?

Yep...BMS is shutting down battery charge function. Let the heater run for a while to heat the compartment. You might have to "jump start" the battery to get the BMS to come back online. That all depends on which battery/BMS combo you have.

I would however check your breaker panel to ensure the converter is ON. Even with low battery, the converter should be able to provide enough 12v power to the frig to keep it running.

Finally, a thermal outlet might be a good purchase for you. ~$10. It will turn your heater on a 33F and off again at 47F, so you can just set it and forget it

 

[BryanValRox]

I’m hooked to 50 amp power. I assumed since it’s 24 outside the BMS shut the batteries charging system down. I don’t know why they discharged if I’m hooked to power. The shunt did require some programming.

We have everything working inside except the fridge, it’s giving an E3 code, low power?

I don’t know what’s going on? I put a small space heater inside the battery compartment to warm the space up. Maybe then it can charge?

Have you checked your breaker and fuse panel for tripped breakers or blown fuse?

 

[Meanjean73]

Have you checked your breaker and fuse panel for tripped breakers or blown fuse?

The 110 is good. Nothing tripped. Besides pulling each 12 volt fuse is there something else that I should check? There used to be a small light blinking when in LA mode but after switching to LI mode there is no light. Called the company and they said that’s normal

 

[BryanValRox]

The 110 is good. Nothing tripped. Besides pulling each 12 volt fuse is there something else that I should check? There used to be a small light blinking when in LA mode but after switching to LI mode there is no light. Called the company and they said that’s normal

If you have a meter handy you could check some key terminals on you panel for the expected voltage.
Also do you have a tester to ensure that your pedestal outlet is ok? Both legs, neutral and ground.
I have attached a line drawing with calls outs for terminals to check.

 

[Oregon_Camper]

The 110 is good. Nothing tripped. Besides pulling each 12 volt fuse is there something else that I should check? There used to be a small light blinking when in LA mode but after switching to LI mode there is no light. Called the company and they said that’s normal

The 12v fuse will lite up a LED if blown. You don't need to pull them and inspect them.

Take your volt meter and test all your 12v lines. One of them should be 13v ish. That will be your incoming power from converter. Perhaps you have a bad thermal breaker and the converter power is not getting to the busbar?

 

[BryanValRox]

The 110 is good. Nothing tripped. Besides pulling each 12 volt fuse is there something else that I should check? There used to be a small light blinking when in LA mode but after switching to LI mode there is no light. Called the company and they said that’s normal

Be sure to check those 3 25 amp fuses in the lower rh side of the panel. Use a meter, I don’t believe those three have indicator lights.

 

[Meanjean73]

Thanks for the info. I’ll have to check these things when I get back. Headed out wine tasting with friends so it will have to wait. Hopefully I get these things worked out and can enjoy this a bit more.