Hi Bryan, we have confirmed the weight ratings and believe we are good. But I will measure twice and cut once. Thanks for your insights.
i haven’t used tow mode and engine brake at same time. When I was using tow mode only I found that my engine rpm’s would rev high going down hill and I couldn’t figure out how to shift up. When I turned tow mode off and went engine brakes I felt like I had better control. I’ve got to better understand how tow mode func better.
Thanks for your cares and input. It’s valued.
Hi KingDom,
Please understand that my intention is NOT to beat the capacity topic to death and I certainly respect everyone’s input to this topic, please take a look at more then just the TOWING capacity.
Think about specific parameters that go into towing the coach.
Breaking it down a bit, are you confident that you will be within your GVWR, GCWR, PAYLOAD, AXLE and TIRE ratings of your SWR? Will you have enough margin for your own “Tummy Comfort”
Below is a copy of my recently previous post on this topic. Give it a read, measure twice, cut once and if your good, your good!
Hi Folks, the answer to your question lies within the numbers.
I would suggest that you look at your door tag on your truck and see what the GVWR, Axle, Tire, Payload, and GCWR numbers are. Then compare to the specs and actual numbers from the given trailer that you are looking at. Specific to the trailer, your are concerned with hitch/pin weight and GCWR and actual trailer weight.
Also, sounds like you have a short bed and the trailer has a rotating pin box so you are aware of possible cab clearance issues when turning.
Please remember that EVERYTHING that goes into or on the truck reduces the available payload capacity. And EVERYTHING that goes into the trailer impacts the numbers to some degree.
As a example, some hitches weight @ 300lbs and that reduces your payload by the same as soon as you install it.
Remember trailer specs are usually listed for base models and if you spec extras, like washer dryer or generator options, they will have a big impact on your trailer pin weight. Don’t ask me how I know
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So back to less controversial topics of tow haul and engine brakes.
At a very high level, Tow/Haul is effectively preventing the transmission from excessive shifting. It basically prevents the transmission from shifting into the top gear of the transmission. Many transmission in todays truck have at least 1 overdrive gear as the top gear or in some cases 2 overdrives as the top two ratios. These OD ratios are less than a 1:1 ratio and are designed to lower engine rpms to improve fuel mileage. So when the tow haul is engaged, your cruise rpm would in fact be higher at a given speed over the next higher gear at the same speed. The same would apply down hill, you rpms would be higher at a given speed. In most cases Engine Brakes/Exhaust Brakes are in fact more effective at higher rpms than they are at lower ones. Remember this is a high level conversation and there are limits to be concerned with. So it is important to understand the operation of both modes and cause and effect of each on its own and the combination of both in operation at the same time. I am sure this topic would be covered in your owners manual.
Hope this helps!
Best regards.
