Have PU, looking at 310RL

[Caballero Blanco]

Currently have a 2024 GMC 2500 HD diesel, with the max tow package. This means its a 2500 with the suspension, etc. to make it a 3500.
The GCWR is 27500, max tow 19100, max tongue 2865.

The 2025 310RL GVWR is 15000, hitch weight 2530.
It seems to be enough truck, but wanted to get some thoughts from you more experience folks. Thanks.

 

[justdee]

I am living your scenario as we speak, or type.
BEFORE I bought my 2025 310RL, I thought I asked the right questions with the right people. Problem was, most of those people were salesman. It didn't matter if it was at the GMC dealership or at any RV dealership, they all said the same thing. A 3500 with a Duramax can pull any RV on the lot with power to spare. And while that is a true statement, it will pull just about anything, it doesn't mean that it should.
Based on all that 'expert' information, I purchased a lightly used 2022 GMC 3500HD, Denali package, SRW, with the Duramax. Then I bought the RV a couple of months later and I had the dealership add a washer & dryer, slide toppers, and a Gen-Y hitch.
When I went to pick up the RV in Tennessee, the truck did sag a bit, but not too bad. I knew that I'd address that issue as soon as I could and I have already.
I pulled the RV back to the Dallas area with no issues. Truck pulled it like it was an 18' bass boat.
Then, I got to worrying and started to ask the questions on these forums' to the real experts. That's when I began to learn the truth.
In a nut shell. For a SRW truck, the number that you must watch is the RGAWR, and for my truck, fully loaded, that number is 7250 lbs. That is the max weight that your rear axle can handle. And it's not so much the axle that is the weak link, it is the springs, shackles, tires, etc., that will give way first.
I finally got my truck on the scales, then put both the truck and the loaded trailer on the scales. The actual weight on the rear drive axle is 7080 lbs. My truck had full tanks, me and my wife, and our jackets in the backset. The bed was empty, we had no 'cargo' to speak of in the truck and I even added some water to the fresh tank to help lighten the load up front on the trailer. As the math states, that gives me a whoppin' 170 lbs. of wiggle room on that rear axle. Just bouncing up and down hitting bumps in the road probably adds that or more momentarily.
Looking at your numbers you provided, you have 335 lbs. of cargo capacity, and you haven't loaded the trailer down yet, or put anything in the truck.
In hindsight, I may have gone with a dually. It would have given me the piece of mind to know that I could load the truck with a bunch of gear and still be okay on the rear axle, not to mention the added stability and braking a dually provides.
Since I'm not crazy about driving a dually all the time, I could have gotten a different package and not the Denali. My moon roof, electric steps, sliding rear window, etc., add a lot of weight to the truck. As does the diesel engine, but I'm not giving up that Duramax.
I am very conscientious of my weight distribution now and I realize I just can't load whatever I want without overloading that rear axle.
The moment of truth is when you put it on the scales. You can't put your trust in those 'advertised' numbers from the factory. The data stickers on the actual units, yes, but not the advertisement crap. For example, Alliance states the GVWR of the 310RL, on their website, is 15,500 lbs. In reality, the data sticker states 15,000 lbs. And I don't know where they get that advertised HITCH WEIGHT.
And speaking of the GVWR of the trailer. EVERY sales rep swore up and down that there was no way you could load that trailer down and get anywhere close to the GVWR. Granted, I did add some water to my tank, but my trailer, according to the scales, is sitting at 15,460 lbs. And that is, for us, fully loaded. We are not full timers, our storage bays and interior storage is not close to full.
Be aware of your numbers and even though you have a diesel and a HD truck, the reality is, the 310RL is at the top end for the truck.

 

[Caballero Blanco]

Good info justdee. Appreciate it. BTW the truck sticker say the RGAWR is 6600 lbs. Hmmm....
We would have bought the 3500 DRW as the cost wouldn't have been that much different. But its our main vehicle as well so didn't want to be dragging the big rear end around everywhere. In hindsight maybe should have just got it. Done deal now tho so will just have to be smart on how we do this.
Thought I understood all this before we bought the truck as we already knew the trailer we wanted. So thought we were getting enough truck. But learning the RGAWR part of it all, well, apparently didn't learn enough.

 

[Fishfnatic]

Good info justdee. Appreciate it. BTW the truck sticker say the RGAWR is 6600 lbs. Hmmm....
We would have bought the 3500 DRW as the cost wouldn't have been that much different. But its our main vehicle as well so didn't want to be dragging the big rear end around everywhere. In hindsight maybe should have just got it. Done deal now tho so will just have to be smart on how we do this.
Thought I understood all this before we bought the truck as we already knew the trailer we wanted. So thought we were getting enough truck. But learning the RGAWR part of it all, well, apparently didn't learn enough.

We have a 2024 310 rl that we live in full time. When I went to scale we had 7400 on drive axle. No washer and dryer. We are pulling with a drw.

 

[ktdtx]

I am in a similar boat..bought the 310rl in December and then ordered an F-250 SRW which, common opinion was, that it would pull it fine.
Like you..this truck will replace my daily driver and didn't want to be running a Dually every day when I might be making just a few trips with the RV every year.
This being my daily driver will also dictate the hitch selection..looking at (mostly) the Gen Y or the Reese Goosebox and the Andersen Ultimate is not totally out of the question...probably going with the Goosebox.
Truck should be here in a couple weeks..so, we will see how things work out--even though, technically, a larger truck might be more appropriate for pulling the RV that isn't the main function of the vehicle.

 

[kmac7800]

My 2020 310rl has a 3,300lb pin weight when the RV is loaded, and I have the 2020 GMC Denali 3500 SRW. I think your 2500 would be way over all the numbers once it is ready to go "camping".

//KMac

 

[Caballero Blanco]

KMac, am assuming when you mean being way over the numbers, you mean in a bad way (too much weight for the truck).

 

[M and E]

If I recall correctly, GM gamed the system in your favor with the max tow package. My understanding is that the 3500 and the 2500 with max tow are nearly identical—same axle, brakes, and suspension, with the primary difference being a crossmember for a snowplow on the 3500. The frames are essentially the same, and the different stickers are mainly for licensing purposes.

I'm not an expert, but I believe the truck's actual capabilities may exceed what the sticker indicates. I'm not suggesting whether it's the right or wrong truck for your needs, only that its true capacity might not be fully reflected in the official specifications.

 

[Lantley]

If I recall correctly, GM gamed the system in your favor with the max tow package. My understanding is that the 3500 and the 2500 with max tow are nearly identical—same axle, brakes, and suspension, with the primary difference being a crossmember for a snowplow on the 3500. The frames are essentially the same, and the different stickers are mainly for licensing purposes.

I'm not an expert, but I believe the truck's actual capabilities may exceed what the sticker indicates. I'm not suggesting whether it's the right or wrong truck for your needs, only that its true capacity might not be fully reflected in the official specifications.

I'm not suggesting whether it's the right or wrong truck for your needs, only that its true capacity might not be fully reflected in the official specifications.

Second guessing the sticker is fool's gold. If your going to ignore, debate or challenge the sticker there is no point in either bothering with the ratings system. Just choose a truck, and go for it.

 

[M and E]

Second guessing the sticker is fool's gold. If your going to ignore, debate or challenge the sticker there is no point in either bothering with the ratings system. Just choose a truck, and go for it.

I'm not second-guessing anything. If the frame, suspension, brakes, engine, and other components are identical between two vehicles, with the only difference being the badging, wouldn’t you agree that their capabilities are the same?

The counterargument would be that the 3500 isn’t actually more capable than the 2500, given that they are essentially the same vehicle in this case (GM 3500 vs. 2500 with max tow). I’m curious—what factors do you think would make the 2500 less capable than the 3500 in this scenario?

Just to clarify, I’m not being argumentative. I completely agree that ignoring the sticker’s specifications is usually a bad idea, but I don’t believe that applies to GMs as described in this case.

 

[Lantley]

I'm not second-guessing anything. If the frame, suspension, brakes, engine, and other components are identical between two vehicles, with the only difference being the badging, wouldn’t you agree that their capabilities are the same?

The counterargument would be that the 3500 isn’t actually more capable than the 2500, given that they are essentially the same vehicle in this case (GM 3500 vs. 2500 with max tow). I’m curious—what factors do you think would make the 2500 less capable than the 3500 in this scenario?

Just to clarify, I’m not being argumentative. I completely agree that ignoring the sticker’s specifications is usually a bad idea, but I don’t believe that applies to GMs as described in this case.

GM has plenty of engineers and staff to rate their trucks. If they wanted it rated differently they would do so.
I trust they know more about their truck than I do.

 

[M and E]

Some might find this interesting.

 

[Lantley]

I can agree that GM is confusing the issue with the 2500 max tow. I guess the question is how many max tow versions are really out there?
Will you find a max tow versions on the lot or all they all special orders?
Personally for the size 5th wheel I desire. I skipped over all the SRW models. I don't want to be concerned with the various truck packages or watch what I carry. I want a truck with ample cargo capacity such that payload is not a concern. Neither a max tow 2500 or SRW 3500 provides enough payload for my liking.
Back when I was doing my truck research I quickly learned that I did not want to go down all the rabbit holes to determine what the truck was really rated for. I didn't want to count springs or measure shocks. I did not want to add air bags or Timbrens. I realized a SRW truck was cutting it too close . A SRW truck would limit what trailer I purchased.
Truth is a SRW may have been adequate for my prior 14K GVW trailer. But I knew I did not want to play the upgrade game or limit my options for future purchases. Once I went from a bumper pull to a 5th wheel I knew I needed a dually to avoid having a combo that was close to or right at its limits. I wanted plenty of margin to avoid a playing the payload game.
The biggest RV/ 5th wheel buying lesson I learned is that buying the truck correct truck wasn't about $$$. Once I understood that the prices of the trucks were all within a few thousand dollars of each other. You could pay the same price for a 2500 as you could for a 3500 Dually.
Getting the right truck was more about understanding the parameters vs. price or having enough money.
Don't get me wrong the trucks are expensive and money is a fact of life. But the wrong truck cost just as much as the right truck. With that in mind buying a dually became a no brainer for me.

 

[M and E]

I guess the question is how many max tow versions are really out there?

Not really sure. There were quite a few used models that I came across but only a handful of new ones that I was in front of. In any event, they were nice trucks, but we did not care for the seats.

I wanted plenty of margin to avoid a playing the payload game.

I was unwilling to go to the DRW but you made the best decision from a capabilities perspective for sure.

 

[bhidalgo]

We have a '22 310RL, which we pull with a '22 F350 SRW. We have loved "mostly" every minute of owning this RV.
Had a '21 F250 with Max Tow Package when we started looking at RVs and decided on the 310RL.
We were within 100 lbs of the truck's Cargo Capacity when I figured up all the numbers to pull the RV safely. I did not look at the truck's rear axle specs at the time. We COULD have pulled the RV with the F250, but I was unwilling to take the chance and risk everyone's safety. We played it safe and ordered a '22 F350 SRW maxed out with all available tow package options for towing the rig.
Fast forward 3 years and we are still about 300LBS north of truck cargo capacity, rear axle weight limits are well within margins considering the RV's weight, and I barely feel the RV when towing. We've been up and over the Mississippi River Bridge in Baton Rouge, LA several times; up, down and around the hills in GA and TN; and through the I-10 tunnel in Mobile, AL with no issues.
BTW, we are part-timers and first-time RV owners...

 

[Lantley]

On a clear sunny day the weight ratings are not critical. On relatively flat ground (the entire east coast). The ratings have wiggle room.
However at higher elevations. That can mean twisty steep roads in WV..LOL or in bad weather the ratings quickly come into play.
I have been playing the RV game for 20 years now. I have towed various thing within the ratings at the ratings and above the ratings.
I have learned is the ratings are for real.
Generally speaking you are fine towing right at or slightly above your ratings. However a combo that is within all of its ratings does perform better than a combo that is not within all of its ratings. A combo that has margin above its ratings performs even better. Again none of this is critical on a clear sunny day, its on a bad day that all the forces come into play. Seat belts are now mandatory in most places and we all understand how critical they can be, but you don't really need them until suddenly you do. If you aren't already buckled up its too late to put them on.
This is the same scenario with choosing a combo you don't really need that exact truck to keep you within all your ratings preferably with some margin until you do.
I didn't always think this way. I didn't always think a dually was necessary. We maybe born smart or intelligent but it takes time and experience to become wise like the owl. Wisdom has led me to go the dually route.

 

[kmac7800]

KMac, am assuming when you mean being way over the numbers, you mean in a bad way (too much weight for the truck).

Yes, that is what I was suggesting, as my loaded pin weight was 3,300, way too much for a 2500 GM truck.

//KMac

 

[Creek Jenkins]

I stayed with a SRW f350 for our 310rl and I believe I will be right at or a bit below the max payload of 4200 once we have our final configuration- Gen Y gooseneck, dual Honda E2000, assortment of grills, camp chairs, basement fridge, tools. Slide toppers and washer/ dryer are still TBD.
Walking through the campground there are lots of Montanas, Arctic Foxes and Solitudes being pulled by SRW trucks, many of them are people I know and some have many thousands of miles on their rigs with no problems.
Cheers
Creek