Furrion Artic 12V french door refrigerator, FCR20DCAFA, Can't turn off power to frig during storage

[Socal-Paul]

When I push the button on the refer it turns off the lights and the compressor so it is non-operational. I believe (and could be wrong) that this will remove the temperature operational concern, leaving power to the board only. I can see where repeated turning off and on may eventually cause damage to the board. I can see you want the fuse more accessible but a second fuse in line is a problem. I would still pull the refer out and remove the fuse.

 

[eurekaclowns]

Thanks for your reply.
I have been reading all the posts on the 12v refrigerators and the various issues about power and lack of disconnect.
Also several new units failed on their maiden voyage.
Many different reasons, from bad crimps to heat failure on the control board.
When these units sit at a dealer for sometimes over a year, there will be temperature extremes that can stress the control board.
You would think that Alliance would put in a simple way to disconnect the power to the refrigerator while in storage.
Not to mention your new rig has a refrigerator that has been running 24/7 for nothing.
The disconnect issue would be an easy fix for Alliance to install at the factory.
Having the disconnect and instructions to turn off when in storage could possibly save several refrigerators from premature failure.
This has been going on since 2022.
Saw several posts that never were solved.
I am pushing this so that new Alliance owners who may not have the capability to work on their rig, shouldn't have to go thru this.
If we are to install in the field, then it would be wise for Alliance to come up with a list of preferred parts that would meet specs.
I saw on one post someone installed a switch that was rated at 16A while the fuse is a 20A. Had to dig on the spec sheet, but the info was there.
Would be better to have all components meeting specs.
A wiring diagram would also be nice to have.
On my 340RL, I had a residential refrigerator running off an inverter.
Lost the inverter 2 times within the first year and the last one they sent me was a newer revision.
In the process of replacing the inverter, I had to find a way to turn off the refrigerator. I found you have to turn off the inverter and then CB1 on the breaker panel in the coach.
A couple of times half my outlets didn't work.
I finally found these were powered off the inverter, which was off for storage.
You can identify these outlets because they were single instead of duplex. No where is this mentioned in user manual.
In the process of tracing the power, I noticed they used the cheap push in V connection on the outlets and some weren't pushed in completely.
So I am familiar with tracing out plumbing and wiring, but having a diagram would really help.

Thanks again and have a great day.

 

[Oregon_Camper]

Normally, I would never recommend these cheap breakers, but in this case the frig pulls under 10 amps, so a cheap 15 amp breaker is all that is needed.

For the ease of use, I might even install it in the propane tank area vs in the big battery compartment. This would make it very easy to access vs having to get into battery area...IMHO of course.

I understand your beef with Alliance for not having the fuse in an area that you can use (or even see) it. I am guessing they are sending you a blade fuse, that you would have to put in/out each time you want to use it. I feel the 15 amp breaker below is better, as you can simply flip the switch.

 

[BryanValRox]

Thanks for sharing your concerns and trying to drive improvement on the behalf of everyone.

I would agree with Jim regarding his switched breaker solution. This is much easier that dealing with a blade fuse.


Also, just as a point of clarity. Most new coach sit on the lot without a battery installed in them. There are some options that do drive factory installed batteries.

So generally speaking, the 12 volt system remains dead while units are waiting on sale and the installation of a dealer installed battery as part of the sale. So obviously the refrigerator would not be running unnecessarily.

 

[eurekaclowns]

Bryan, good point on 12v batteries not installed until sold, but most of the time they are in the display units.

Jim, I just found the 20A version of what you are showing. You spec 10A current draw but Alliance is installing 20A fuses.
This will kill 2 birds with one stone.
The problem with killing power with the blade fuse is when you go to reinsert it.
The refrigerator will be instantly drawing current and you will get an arc that could trip the fuse.
The one above has a push button to trip and a little lever to re-engage, all enclosed.
Without Alliance taking ownership of this, all new RV owners will have to down the same rabbit hole.
Easy fix at the factory.
On my first Paradigm I had a piece of molding on the dinette slide pop off.
It only had a couple of little wire staples to hold it in place.
At that time I was able to talk to the VP and I said they should have used some adhesive caulk with the staples.
Minimum cost when down at factory and prevents new owners from getting the cheap build concerns like in other RV manufacturers.
Anyway I am done with this.
Hope you have a great day.

For future posts about this I would recommend the: $14.99 at Amazon, with screw on terminals vs stay con terminals on other switches.

RED WOLF 20A Circuit Breaker Holder W/Manual Reset Switch 12-48V DC​

 

[BryanValRox]

Just a comment on fuse selection, remember fuses are really designed to protect the wiring. So it is important to understand component rating and the wiring ampacity rating.

Sounds like you might have reached the point of frustration, sorry your experiencing this and again thanks for trying to drive improvements for all of us.

 

[Flyer32RLS]

Been following this thread and to be honest, I'm at a total loss. Maybe I'm the dumbest SOB on the planet but when I turn of our fridge, it turns off, It is not cooling, lights do not come on so not really sure I understand the problem. With that said, with the picture the was sent from Alliance, it would seem to be a very simple fix to just put a plain simple switch someplace downstream from that connection and problem solved, blood pressure back to normal and problem solved. Our 32RLS is always plugged into 110V so not really concerned about it.
There comes a time when falling on your sword is just not worth the anxiety.
My $0.02 worth.

 

[eurekaclowns]

My new 2025 has a 12v Furrion refrigerator that doesn't have an on/off switch. All my previous RV's had refrigerators with on/off switches.
So when my unit is in storage I still have 110V to the RV to keep the batteries alive, but I don't want to run my refrigerator.
All the info I received was wrong.
Apparently the factory has changed the way they wire the refrigerator.
I did find a black fuse holder buried in the wiring harness over the hydraulic pump that was connected to the buss bar.
It contained a 10A fuse and powered the hydraulic pump.
I found the refrigerator was connected to the bottom re-settable fuse. I was told it was the wire connected to the buss bar.
I installed the 20 A switchable breaker as shown.
Had to trim the black wall that is along the hydraulic pump about 2" on back edge to clear new switchable breaker.

I also had the same issue with the crimp-on stay-con connector pulling off the wire as several other posts have mentioned. They are using the simple flat crimp tool instead of using something like the Kline's crimper that puts a dimple in the wire.
Kline's crimper costs a little more, but the quality of the wiring connections improves dramatically.

Pic 3811 is the fuse holder from the buss bar to the hydraulic pump.
Pic 3807 is the wire running to the refrigerator from the re-settable breaker.
Pic 3810 is with the new switchable breaker installed.
Pic 3812 shows easy access to switchable breaker to turn refrigerator on/off.

Problem resolved.