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Ford Super Duty Trailer Camera Cable Routing

M and E

Well-known member
I purchased the OEM Ford trailer camera system for my 24 F350 Lariat with ProTrailer assist (they had 20% off accessories last month). We're waiting for delivery of our 2025 340RL, which I'll install the camera on. I was wondering if anyone has done this on a 340RL (or other Paradigm) and, if so, if they can share their cable routing strategy.

I tested the camera on the truck and the image quality is really very good, if anyone was wondering. Also, the cable kit that comes with the camera has a branch to support the yaw sensor for the ProTrailer assist, which I kind of like (keeps things tidy). Other than the cable routing, the camera is pretty much plug and play.
 

BryanValRox

Well-known member
I purchased the OEM Ford trailer camera system for my 24 F350 Lariat with ProTrailer assist (they had 20% off accessories last month). We're waiting for delivery of our 2025 340RL, which I'll install the camera on. I was wondering if anyone has done this on a 340RL (or other Paradigm) and, if so, if they can share their cable routing strategy.

I tested the camera on the truck and the image quality is really very good, if anyone was wondering. Also, the cable kit that comes with the camera has a branch to support the yaw sensor for the ProTrailer assist, which I kind of like (keeps things tidy). Other than the cable routing, the camera is pretty much plug and play.
M and E, well your timing is just about perfect.
I just got done installing a wired trailer camera on our 310 RL. We have a Ram , but mounting and routing know no difference.
I considered the two options, internal and external routing. After removing some of the ceiling lights to see if I could fish it thru the rafters etc, I figured I just didn’t have the time and patience to go this route. So I defaulted to plan B which was external routing. I definitely wasn’t keen on exposed wiring on the back of the coach.
So, I came up with a strategy that used surface mount wiring “races” to hide the exposed wire.
I mounted the camera up near the factory’s pre wire plug(which isn’t needed in my case).
To help hide the race a little and because I had enough cable, I decided to run the raceway to the door side and mount it behind the ladder to help hide it a little. I used exploding rivets sealed with silicone RTV to seal and secure the raceway.
I drilled thru the back wall and hid the hole behind the raceway. At this point, I ran the cable across the back of the rear hitch, securing it with insulated P Clamps. This got me to the off door side, and I used the cut out in the floor support gussets to run the cable thru. I added extra loom at each gusset just to help prevent any chance of rubbing thru.
Where gussets weren’t available, I used the P clamps and short self tapping screws to secure the cable to the frame rail.
This got me to the propane compartment, from there a hole was drilled to get me to the front compartment.
At this point, I mounted the repeater about coach centerline and attached the rear cable.
The next step was to install the cable from the repeater to the truck. I was able to fish this from the front compartment following the existing wiring leading to the pin box for the 7 pin plug and it came out in the pin box area.
I mounted the storage receptacle to the 7 pin cover and again sealed the mounted screws..

The Ram installation instructions recommended, a max height of 6 feet, in hind sight, I am very happy with the the installation, but I think the field of view might be better following those instructions, instead of going higher like I did.
If I had to do it over again, I would go lower, so you might hook it up before beginning your install and get a feel what height would work best for you.
Attached are a few pictures for your reference
 

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George

Well-known member
Also used raceway and ran along the frame but mounted below rear window.
Came up the propane bay and through a drilled hole into front storage then out to the pin box with a fish tape.

route.jpeg
 

Oregon_Camper

Forum Admin
Staff member
Why not just come up...run cable down roof and come down the tube Alliance installs for Solar wiring? That drops down to pass-through area and from there it is a straight shot to front compartment.
 

ktdtx

Member
I'm glad this thread is here..just got my 2025 F-250 and a BIG wad of cables. Ford dealer says I am only the 2nd person to order this that he knows of and no help as to how to connect it.
 

George

Well-known member
Why not just come up...run cable down roof and come down the tube Alliance installs for Solar wiring? That drops down to pass-through area and from there it is a straight shot to front compartment.
That's a good idea but IMHO it's best mounted below the rear window so I'd still have to use the raceway to get it to the roof.
Once there would self-level LAP sealant every foot or so secure it? Definitely don't want more holes in the roof.
BTW- For Ram owners the cable to truck coax connector is not very robust. Be careful. I already had to take to the service department. It turned out that the outer coax fingers were bent; making a loose connection. Since then I've had to straighten/align/tighten them several times.
 

M and E

Well-known member
M and E, well your timing is just about perfect.
I just got done installing a wired trailer camera on our 310 RL. We have a Ram , but mounting and routing know no difference.
I considered the two options, internal and external routing. After removing some of the ceiling lights to see if I could fish it thru the rafters etc, I figured I just didn’t have the time and patience to go this route. So I defaulted to plan B which was external routing. I definitely wasn’t keen on exposed wiring on the back of the coach.
So, I came up with a strategy that used surface mount wiring “races” to hide the exposed wire.
I mounted the camera up near the factory’s pre wire plug(which isn’t needed in my case).
To help hide the race a little and because I had enough cable, I decided to run the raceway to the door side and mount it behind the ladder to help hide it a little. I used exploding rivets sealed with silicone RTV to seal and secure the raceway.
I drilled thru the back wall and hid the hole behind the raceway. At this point, I ran the cable across the back of the rear hitch, securing it with insulated P Clamps. This got me to the off door side, and I used the cut out in the floor support gussets to run the cable thru. I added extra loom at each gusset just to help prevent any chance of rubbing thru.
Where gussets weren’t available, I used the P clamps and short self tapping screws to secure the cable to the frame rail.
This got me to the propane compartment, from there a hole was drilled to get me to the front compartment.
At this point, I mounted the repeater about coach centerline and attached the rear cable.
The next step was to install the cable from the repeater to the truck. I was able to fish this from the front compartment following the existing wiring leading to the pin box for the 7 pin plug and it came out in the pin box area.
I mounted the storage receptacle to the 7 pin cover and again sealed the mounted screws..

The Ram installation instructions recommended, a max height of 6 feet, in hind sight, I am very happy with the the installation, but I think the field of view might be better following those instructions, instead of going higher like I did.
If I had to do it over again, I would go lower, so you might hook it up before beginning your install and get a feel what height would work best for you.
Attached are a few pictures for your reference
This was very generous of you to take the time to write this up with great detail! I had not considered raceway as an option but it's now on the list.
I have a question for you. When you say you did not have the patience to fish the wires through, does that mean you saw it being a big pain or you just did not want to find out if that was the case?

Thank you again!
Mike
 

M and E

Well-known member
Why not just come up...run cable down roof and come down the tube Alliance installs for Solar wiring? That drops down to pass-through area and from there it is a straight shot to front compartment.
How challenging would it be to fish the wire through the hole where the existing camera mount is located? I'm thinking this could be a good way to go if it can make it to the pin.
 

M and E

Well-known member
I'm glad this thread is here..just got my 2025 F-250 and a BIG wad of cables. Ford dealer says I am only the 2nd person to order this that he knows of and no help as to how to connect it.
On mine, the bag of cables that came with my 24, purchased in 2025, there was a yaw sensor for the ProTrailer option. When you install the camera, you abandon the yaw sensor cable and then plug the yaw sensor into the same wiring harness that supports the camera.

If you did get the camera harness you have a connection for the camera, the yaw sensor, and the TPMS module (which I'll order next time they offer a discount). It all makes sense once you get into it. I was wondering how I was going to connect the yaw sensor with the port in the bed occupied.
 

BryanValRox

Well-known member
This was very generous of you to take the time to write this up with great detail! I had not considered raceway as an option but it's now on the list.
I have a question for you. When you say you did not have the patience to fish the wires through, does that mean you saw it being a big pain or you just did not want to find out if that was the case?

Thank you again!
Mike
To answer your question, I did remove ceiling lights to see what I could learn, and poked around a bit.
My decision to go with plan B was based on the fact that I wasn’t sure that I could get to the camera prewire area via the rafters, rear wall cabinets etc. Secondly, I just didn’t want to invest the time to fight the battle trying to fish it from light cut to light cut out and then find a path down into the front compartment.
Additionally, I read a post hear that someone( can’t remember who) did successfully take the inside route on and Avenue. They shared having trouble with getting thru the prewire area to the rafters, so they lowered a clearance light to the camera prewire and mounted the camera in the lights previous home.
 

BryanValRox

Well-known member
I just found this write up from @carlstuff

Post in thread 'Proper Adhesive for Camera Cable'

He successfully took the inside route. His write up is below, he also posted pictures on the original post.
You can search by his name or the post “ Proper Adhesive for Camera Cable”

I'm adding to this older thread just to let future Googlers know that, with time (I had enough) and patience (barely), it is possible to internally and invisibly route a camera cable (Ford, with 1.5" connector) from the top rear of an Avenue 29RL all the way to the pinbox. I suspect it can be done with other models too. The only new hole I had to drill was through the floor behind the right rear felt panel of the passthru. I removed the center clearance light at the top rear of the 5W, widened the hole, fished a string to the run of recessed lights up the right side of the ceiling, then to the bathroom light, then down the wall between bath and living area (where my control panel is and where much of the wiring is run) all the way to the basement passthru, then through my only drilled hole, along the trailer frame, then forward and up into the propane compartment, then through the foamed gap up into the front storage, then to the pinbox from inside the exterior 'skin'. I couldn't get the cable to the camera-ready 'plug' in the back, so I mounted the camera where the center clearance light was and mounted that light at the camera plug. Some photos are attached and I can add more detail for anyone interested. What gave me the confidence to try was having a factory tour at Alliance and seeing how the roof/ceiling was constructed. I also added Ford's TPMS, BLIS (blind spot) and yaw sensor (backup assist), so I did have to drill for the BLIS sensors, but all wiring is 'invisible' other than in the propane compartments and ceiling of the front storage.20241115_152719.jpg20241116_153905.jpg
 

M and E

Well-known member
To answer your question, I did remove ceiling lights to see what I could learn, and poked around a bit.
My decision to go with plan B was based on the fact that I wasn’t sure that I could get to the camera prewire area via the rafters, rear wall cabinets etc. Secondly, I just didn’t want to invest the time to fight the battle trying to fish it from light cut to light cut out and then find a path down into the front compartment.
Additionally, I read a post hear that someone( can’t remember who) did successfully take the inside route on and Avenue. They shared having trouble with getting thru the prewire area to the rafters, so they lowered a clearance light to the camera prewire and mounted the camera in the lights previous home.
Thanks, sincerely, for this and the second post from @Carlsuff ‘s efforts on this project!
 

M and E

Well-known member
No worries at all Mike, knowledge sharing is what this forum is all about!
Best of luck with your project, please let us know how you make out.
I will. Whichever route I go I’ll try to memorialize the process with pictures. But I’m not really a great shutterbug. If my wife helps maybe she can do that part.
 

M and E

Well-known member
Back on this project again now that I have the rig. I’m thinking I am not going to use any wire mold but rather just use a white split loom to mask the black cable, mount the camera high, then run the cable up and across the roof to the wire chase and down through to the garage. Technically, VHB backed zip tie mounts should work. Eternabond is the other option I’m considering. Open to whatever feedback you all may have.

I have a Furion camera. I’m going to pop that on too. It serves as a security cam as well so I figure why not?
 
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