Electronic Dump valves blowing fuse

[SJerseySeasonalCamper]

2026 395DS with the 4 electronic waste gate valves. Three of my four valves are working as expected. My front black tank switch is showing the red light when in the off position, and when I move the switch to the open position, it blows the 4 amp fuse. Has anyone else experienced this, as I am not sure where to start to diagnose this issue.

 

[BryanValRox]

2026 395DS with the 4 electronic waste gate valves. Three of my four valves are working as expected. My front black tank switch is showing the red light when in the off position, and when I move the switch to the open position, it blows the 4 amp fuse. Has anyone else experienced this, as I am not sure where to start to diagnose this issue.

Well, I guess I will state the obvious and say the the circuit is drawing to much current and blowing fuse. The million dollar question is why.

I would think that this would be limited to the following.
1. Loose power or ground connections
2. A short circuit where the power wire is making contact with a ground somewhere
3. Something in the valve mechanism is binding
4. A bad electric motor on the valve
5. Something stuck inside the plumbing causing the valve to bind .

If you can access the valve and disconnect the power wire and the fuse holds, it would help to rule out a short to ground.(generally speaking)

 

[RockDr896]

I am so concerned with the electronic valve system Alliance and other are selling. If they are going to do it right, they should segment the underbelly. Segmenting the underbelly makes the most sense to me, because some people just need more access space. Could be flexibility, person size, or just needing more room to work. It needs to be a one man job for the DIY folks. In addition, they need to tie up their wire runs and either run them thru a conduit (My preference), or zip tie them up to the frame. If they sentimentalize the underbelly, then it would be easier to make those repairs or changes ourselves.

 

[Midnight Rider]

I am so concerned with the electronic valve system Alliance and other are selling. If they are going to do it right, they should segment the underbelly. Segmenting the underbelly makes the most sense to me, because some people just need more access space. Could be flexibility, person size, or just needing more room to work. It needs to be a one man job for the DIY folks. In addition, they need to tie up their wire runs and either run them thru a conduit (My preference), or zip tie them up to the frame. If they sentimentalize the underbelly, then it would be easier to make those repairs or changes ourselves.

I think they have a square patch pre cut underneath to get at the valves. At least mine does I think?

 

[RockDr896]

I think they have a square patch pre cut underneath to get at the valves. At least mine does I think?

My patches were there, but no "Pre-Cut" was made. Who knows if they are screwed in the right place to make the cut to fix a tank problem.
I have already made 2 sections in my underbelly and plan to tackle the rest this year. I wanted to test the sections before doing the rest.

 

[Bozo]

My patches were there but 12” off on front two. One at rear, i cut access who and found no valve in the vicinity. I plan on dropping front coroplast completely in the spring and tidying up everything then, I also got a bad hyd. hose to replace. Alliance had hoses bent so tight that hose blistered and bleeds hyd fluid now. Alliance, apparently, doesn’t believe in elbows. Front coroplast also has a mix of shot in fasteners and self drilling fasteners….why? One or the other, preferable all screw in like the garage area.

 

[RockDr896]

My patches were there but 12” off on front two. One at rear, i cut access who and found no valve in the vicinity. I plan on dropping front coroplast completely in the spring and tidying up everything then, I also got a bad hyd. hose to replace. Alliance had hoses bent so tight that hose blistered and bleeds hyd fluid now. Alliance, apparently, doesn’t believe in elbows. Front coroplast also has a mix of shot in fasteners and self drilling fasteners….why? One or the other, preferable all screw in like the garage area.

Thanks for confirming my suspicions. They may screw a patch there, but no precise location is determined. I am using 1/8" or 1/4" aluminum angle iron across the width. The key is to build it out of what a Lowes or Home depot keeps in stock. My winter project is to use this same angle metal to box out possible future areas needing access. I won't know that until I drop those areas. The drawing I attached, is if you are looking from the side of the rig, at the main I-Beam.
The coroplast is strong stuff and bridges the width, despite the huge bundle of wires they simply drop without support. I have a HUGE sag in my underbelly from the weight. Reference HotrodJohn's posts. Using angle iron, allows you to drop one side and pull it back like a curtain. I will take some pictures when I get it done.

 

[Bozo]

Thanks for confirming my suspicions. They may screw a patch there, but no precise location is determined. I am using 1/8" or 1/4" aluminum angle iron across the width. The key is to build it out of what a Lowes or Home depot keeps in stock. My winter project is to use this same angle metal to box out possible future areas needing access. I won't know that until I drop those areas. The drawing I attached, is if you are looking from the side of the rig, at the main I-Beam.
The coroplast is strong stuff and bridges the width, despite the huge bundle of wires they simply drop without support. I have a HUGE sag in my underbelly from the weight. Reference HotrodJohn's posts. Using angle iron, allows you to drop one side and pull it back like a curtain. I will take some pictures when I get it done.

Mine also sags badly. Looking forward to your progress on this.