Components of the Black Tank Rinse / Flush System
- Thread starter Jim Beletti
- Start date
@Bill Martin @Pilot4net
Anyone ever figure out the answer to this? I have been trying to figure this out as well!
Flyer32RLS
Well-known member
I question the hipe of these "flushers". All these do is back fill your tanks from where you drain them. Having said that, I also have one of these. The black flush sprayers probably don't do as good a job as one of the manual sprayers that you put down the toilet and flush the tank. All I see is that you are putting water back into the tank from the exit port and forcing it UP into the tank opposite from letting it drain DOWN from the tank.. I do that from the black flush. I drain black tank, refill with about 20+ gal of water and drain. The velocity of the flush cleans the tank. I do this as many times as required to obtain clean clear water from the tank. Usually by the second time its clean. The real trick is to use an abundant amount each time you flush. This does however allow you to on occation to back flush your grey tanks.
Happy Glamping!
You are correct in that you can fill tank with sprayer much in the way you fill tank with flush King device.I question the hipe of these "flushers". All these do is back fill your tanks from where you drain them. Having said that, I also have one of these. The black flush sprayers probably don't do as good a job as one of the manual sprayers that you put down the toilet and flush the tank. All I see is that you are putting water back into the tank from the exit port and forcing it UP into the tank opposite from letting it drain DOWN from the tank.. I do that from the black flush. I drain black tank, refill with about 20+ gal of water and drain. The velocity of the flush cleans the tank. I do this as many times as required to obtain clean clear water from the tank. Usually by the second time its clean. The real trick is to use an abundant amount each time you flush. This does however allow you to on occation to back flush your grey tanks.
Happy Glamping!
The difference between filling the tank with the sprayer and filling with the Flush King is the fluish king allows more water flow into the tank.
The flow from the flush king is unabated it is the full flow of the hose. The sprayer flow is reduced simply because it is a spray pattern vs. full flow.
Both ways work however I prefer the flush King for its simplicity.
No hidden Vacuum breakers or leaks. You can see that water is flowing in and out.
No guesswork involved.
Tank sprayers and tank gauges are over rated gimmicks that could be eliminated and not impact my RV'ing at all.
I stopped using both contraptions many years ago.
Flyer32RLS
Well-known member
Can't argue one bit! I am doing it both ways. You are correct about the tank gauges. Mine is only 6 months old but when they start messing up planon getting those sonic kind that mount to the morttom of the tank or just not worry till the tank over flows than I wil know it is full!!
Happy Glamping
Happy Glamping
Thanks Mand E that was interesting. What I took away the most is that the tank never truly empties. There will always be some residual crap left in the tank. It is a waste tank don't obsess trying to make it spotless, just to fill it back up with crap!
Give it a couple of rinses and let it go. If your in hot weather use chemicals to kill the odor, but otherwise just use lots of water.
If traveling from point A to point B. Its a good idea to leave point A with a few gallons of water sloshing around in tank that you can dump at point B.
That makes sense to me. There are not a lot to these tanks, the sensors seem to inevitably fail, and it’s always going to be “dirty”. I do use the rinse valve when emptying. I guess if there is some horrific odor or something, extra effort would make sense. Maybe higher levels of maintenance might prevent the odors too. Asking, not, asserting, as don’t know much about this system.
I am in my 3rd year, and I have simply used a flow meter to put 30 gallons in each tank (In case one nozzle is adding more into the tank than the other)...and let head pressure do the work. I get clear water after the second flush still. Meaning, no solids are visible. In all fairness, I am not a full timer, but have used it 8 to 12 times a year.
They should manufacturer the tanks, like a pre-made shower base. The corners, should all be built up to flow to the center at least. I had seen the video posted, before I bought my RV. A great video!! You can just see the problem with a flat bottom tank. Not to mention, it would beef up the corners of the tank for travel abuse.
The flush nozzles are inadequate for the job advertised, in my opinion. However, they are needed to simply get water in the tank, to let head pressure, do the job.
The sensors on the black tanks....IGNORE Them. The sensors on the gray tanks...pay attention. However, the gallons to 2/3rds full on my gray tanks, happen fast. The last 1/3rd of my gray tanks, takes forever. So I obviously have sensors placed unevenly. This is where the flow meter is a great tool. I now have a great idea, as to how much we use on a 3 day trip, with no water conservation being utilized. I am the camp cook and feed up to 25 people, so water is a must. It hides the anti-freeze I am adding...LOL...I need to get that Life Insurance job soon!!
The flush nozzles are inadequate for the job advertised, in my opinion. However, they are needed to simply get water in the tank, to let head pressure, do the job.
The sensors on the black tanks....IGNORE Them. The sensors on the gray tanks...pay attention. However, the gallons to 2/3rds full on my gray tanks, happen fast. The last 1/3rd of my gray tanks, takes forever. So I obviously have sensors placed unevenly. This is where the flow meter is a great tool. I now have a great idea, as to how much we use on a 3 day trip, with no water conservation being utilized. I am the camp cook and feed up to 25 people, so water is a must. It hides the anti-freeze I am adding...LOL...I need to get that Life Insurance job soon!!
ericjameslarson
Member
I have a 2025 delta 234rk. First time using the black tank flush yesterday and the pex pipe came disconnected from the near the black tank flush port behind the convenience center panel in the pass thru. What is the trick to removing the panel to gain access to reconnecting the pex to the other side of where the hose connects on exterior of trailer? I don’t see any videos of anyone doing this online.
I don't know if this will help you, but I find the "Clamp ring" style of pex crimping tools, to be the easiest to work with on my 370FB. I only need 1 hand.
The ring crimping tool is just too big to get in most tight places and needs 2 hands.
Attached, is the backside of the panel. It looks like the circled area, is screwed to some framing. The 3rd pic shows a corner piece that may need to be removed.
I would think you could fix it, without removing the panel. The flush port is threaded. Cut the pex on the back, where you can fix with a 1/2" coupler. If I am understanding what you are asking.
The ring crimping tool is just too big to get in most tight places and needs 2 hands.
Attached, is the backside of the panel. It looks like the circled area, is screwed to some framing. The 3rd pic shows a corner piece that may need to be removed.
I would think you could fix it, without removing the panel. The flush port is threaded. Cut the pex on the back, where you can fix with a 1/2" coupler. If I am understanding what you are asking.
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ericjameslarson
Member
@RockDr896
The pex still has the female thread attachment on it. The male end is still attached to the exterior wall but behind the panel. I assume all I need to do is remove the panel and reattach but haven’t seen anything online about removing the panel to gain access and wasn’t sure if this was recommended or not. I didn’t want to cause more problems by doing this and not knowing if this is smart to do or not.
A picture would help...but I think you are saying the leak is after the threaded black flush threaded fitting (Pic #1)?
OR,,,is it the other side of the female Pex fitting, that transition it to the female side?
I am not a plumber by trade, but I would cut the pex pipe, where you can eventually couple it together
Remove the damaged piece
Go to a hardware store and buy what you need. I took a stab at what you may need, but nothing beats going and making sure the threads work.
If you don't have Pex tools, then you get to buy a new tool...LOL.
If this isn't in your comfort zone, then a mobile mechanic or plumber will make short work of your issue! I think a plumber would be quicker response and have the fittings on their truck. Just make sure they carry 1/2" pex on their truck, before hiring them.
OR,,,is it the other side of the female Pex fitting, that transition it to the female side?
I am not a plumber by trade, but I would cut the pex pipe, where you can eventually couple it together
Remove the damaged piece
Go to a hardware store and buy what you need. I took a stab at what you may need, but nothing beats going and making sure the threads work.
If you don't have Pex tools, then you get to buy a new tool...LOL.
If this isn't in your comfort zone, then a mobile mechanic or plumber will make short work of your issue! I think a plumber would be quicker response and have the fittings on their truck. Just make sure they carry 1/2" pex on their truck, before hiring them.
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ericjameslarson
Member
Photo shows pex with female screw attached still behind wall panel. @RockDr896
Yes. It appears to be just disconnected from behind the wall. Accessing behind the panel is a real chore and not sure best approach. I assume to just unscrew the panel to access and reattach the pex.
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I don't have that model, so maybe somebody can chime in.
It looks like you have an access panel on the left side and I outlined it. However, if you are not comfortable with Plumbing stuff, or lack the tools and do not want to own them....call a plumber. I think they will make short work of it and have the fittings to make it happen.
Just in case I am missing the point....are you saying that you need to simply thread the fitting onto the back of the flush port AND nothing is leaking, if you do that? If so, then you just need to remove some underpass panels and get in there with a wrench. I would start on the left side outlined, because it is 90 degrees and most likely how you get there. I really hope I am helping here.
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ericjameslarson
Member
The black panel opens up to the left. Getting my arm behind the white panel is difficult. I don’t think cutting the under belly is necessary as I can poke a finger through to reach the black hose connection on the wall.
Essentially just asking if it’s safe to remove white panel to gain access as I can’t bend my arm in an awkward position with just the black panel door open.
@RockDr896
ericjameslarson
Member
Update to my issue. Wife was able to get extra small in the pass thru and reconnect the pex pipe to the black tank flush port. I’m not sure it ever was connected at the factory.