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Can't figure out banging

bozworth

Member
For months now we've been attempting to figure out what's making a clunking sound when accelerating from a complete stop or breaking normally. It didn't start happening until the end of a long trip from Texas to Yellowstone and back.

So far we've eliminated the frame, the hitch itself (according to B&W and testing the torque of each bolt), the puck system on the truck (torqued correctly), the puck mount points (appropriately tight), and anything else I can think of. The dealer looked at it and thought it was an aluminum weld break at the RV frame, which there was, but fixing it didn't solve the banging. I don't trust them enough to haul it back there for additional troubleshooting.

I'm out of ideas. But I don't think it's normal chucking, especially because it didn't happen originally. I did buy the Anderson lock out kit for that Curt rota-flex kingpin to rule that rotation out but was never able to wedge it in there all the way.

Thoughts anyone?

Here's video (if the link works, otherwise I try to attach): https://photos.app.goo.gl/1A6vt8WMniyz3o8GA

Hitch: B&W Companion Ram pucks
Kingpin: Curt Rota-flex
 

BryanValRox

Elite Member
For months now we've been attempting to figure out what's making a clunking sound when accelerating from a complete stop or breaking normally. It didn't start happening until the end of a long trip from Texas to Yellowstone and back.

So far we've eliminated the frame, the hitch itself (according to B&W and testing the torque of each bolt), the puck system on the truck (torqued correctly), the puck mount points (appropriately tight), and anything else I can think of. The dealer looked at it and thought it was an aluminum weld break at the RV frame, which there was, but fixing it didn't solve the banging. I don't trust them enough to haul it back there for additional troubleshooting.

I'm out of ideas. But I don't think it's normal chucking, especially because it didn't happen originally. I did buy the Anderson lock out kit for that Curt rota-flex kingpin to rule that rotation out but was never able to wedge it in there all the way.

Thoughts anyone?

Here's video (if the link works, otherwise I try to attach): https://photos.app.goo.gl/1A6vt8WMniyz3o8GA

Hitch: B&W Companion Ram pucks
Kingpin: Curt Rota-flex
Have you checked the actual king pin for wear or the jaws for wear or possible adjustment.
In the video, I thought I saw movement that would be a result of the pin and couple jaws joint.
 

Midnight Rider

Prominent Member
It looks to be rocking badly at the point the king pin goes into the hitch? Looks like the trailer is too heavy for the hitch or the hitch is broken where the pin rests? I’ve never seen a hitch rock back and forth like that at the point of connection?
‘very strange?
 

phfkef

Member
For months now we've been attempting to figure out what's making a clunking sound when accelerating from a complete stop or breaking normally. It didn't start happening until the end of a long trip from Texas to Yellowstone and back.

So far we've eliminated the frame, the hitch itself (according to B&W and testing the torque of each bolt), the puck system on the truck (torqued correctly), the puck mount points (appropriately tight), and anything else I can think of. The dealer looked at it and thought it was an aluminum weld break at the RV frame, which there was, but fixing it didn't solve the banging. I don't trust them enough to haul it back there for additional troubleshooting.

I'm out of ideas. But I don't think it's normal chucking, especially because it didn't happen originally. I did buy the Anderson lock out kit for that Curt rota-flex kingpin to rule that rotation out but was never able to wedge it in there all the way.

Thoughts anyone?

Here's video (if the link works, otherwise I try to attach): https://photos.app.goo.gl/1A6vt8WMniyz3o8GA

Hitch: B&W Companion Ram pucks
Kingpin: Curt Rota-flex
Apparently there has been problems with the rubber pad moving. Might be your issue. An internet search turned this up for example; https://www.montanaowners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81551
 

BryanValRox

Elite Member
Have you checked the actual king pin for wear or the jaws for wear or possible adjustment.
In the video, I thought I saw movement that would be a result of the pin and couple jaws joint.
Just some more reference material that might help you resolve your issue.

 

bozworth

Member
Have you checked the actual king pin for wear or the jaws for wear or possible adjustment.
In the video, I thought I saw movement that would be a result of the pin and couple jaws joint.
Normal wear on the pin. The jaws are immaculate. Zero movement within.
 

bozworth

Member
It looks to be rocking badly at the point the king pin goes into the hitch? Looks like the trailer is too heavy for the hitch or the hitch is broken where the pin rests? I’ve never seen a hitch rock back and forth like that at the point of connection?
‘very strange?
The hitch is rated for 25k lbs, off the top of my head. I showed the video to B&W, with pictures of it disassembled, the hitch is fine according to them.
 

bozworth

Member
We posted this in the Facebook group and others are saying they have the same problem. Knowing that the kingpin may operate more freely after it's broken in. I'm reconsidering that Anderson lock out kit to limit the movement of the pin box.
 

BryanValRox

Elite Member
We posted this in the Facebook group and others are saying they have the same problem. Knowing that the kingpin may operate more freely after it's broken in. I'm reconsidering that Anderson lock out kit to limit the movement of the pin box.
Thinking outside of the box here, it can only be a limited number of joints and or pivots that is leading to your issue. You have inspected and deemed everything normal, so it might be time to start eliminating things by changing things up.

How about asking a friend or a dealership if you could hook up to one of their units to see if you have the same issue?
This would help narrow down if it is rooted in the truck and trailer.

With the upmost respect to your observations, I saw movement in the video that would be a result of the pin to jaws joint. Additionally, it sure appears that the rubber is flexing a bunch. What does normal wear on the king pin look like?
Any chance of a picture?
Only trying to help here, not challenging your observations.
In the class 8 truck world (Tractor/Trailers) it is not uncommon to have to adjust fifth wheel plates to compensate for wear. I understand that this isn’t an option on the B&W at least not that I am aware of.
Please keep us posted.
 

bozworth

Member
Thinking outside of the box here, it can only be a limited number of joints and or pivots that is leading to your issue. You have inspected and deemed everything normal, so it might be time to start eliminating things by changing things up.

How about asking a friend or a dealership if you could hook up to one of their units to see if you have the same issue?
This would help narrow down if it is rooted in the truck and trailer.

With the upmost respect to your observations, I saw movement in the video that would be a result of the pin to jaws joint. Additionally, it sure appears that the rubber is flexing a bunch. What does normal wear on the king pin look like?
Any chance of a picture?
Only trying to help here, not challenging your observations.
In the class 8 truck world (Tractor/Trailers) it is not uncommon to have to adjust fifth wheel plates to compensate for wear. I understand that this isn’t an option on the B&W at least not that I am aware of.
Please keep us posted.
I'll take a picture next time I'm over there but I'd describe it as slightly worn paint but no change to the structure.
 

Todd F

Well-known member
We posted this in the Facebook group and others are saying they have the same problem. Knowing that the kingpin may operate more freely after it's broken in. I'm reconsidering that Anderson lock out kit to limit the movement of the pin box.
I installed the Andersen lock out kit on my Curt pinbox but had to grind down the pieces just a fuzz to get them to fit properly. On YouTube DOWN SIZING MAKES SENSE has a video of the rubber piece coming out while they were traveling. If I remember correctly Curt sent them a new pin box. Hope you can get it figured out soon.
 

bozworth

Member
I installed the Andersen lock out kit on my Curt pinbox but had to grind down the pieces just a fuzz to get them to fit properly. On YouTube DOWN SIZING MAKES SENSE has a video of the rubber piece coming out while they were traveling. If I remember correctly Curt sent them a new pin box. Hope you can get it figured out soon.
I've seen it but mine's not showing any of the signs. The only reason I'm going to try the lock out kit is to narrow down the issue. But, tbh, I don't really need the extra angle anyway. Dumb design, imo. I'm buying caliper separators to see if that gets those aluminum bars in place.
 

bozworth

Member
Thinking outside of the box here, it can only be a limited number of joints and or pivots that is leading to your issue. You have inspected and deemed everything normal, so it might be time to start eliminating things by changing things up.

How about asking a friend or a dealership if you could hook up to one of their units to see if you have the same issue?
This would help narrow down if it is rooted in the truck and trailer.

With the upmost respect to your observations, I saw movement in the video that would be a result of the pin to jaws joint. Additionally, it sure appears that the rubber is flexing a bunch. What does normal wear on the king pin look like?
Any chance of a picture?
Only trying to help here, not challenging your observations.
In the class 8 truck world (Tractor/Trailers) it is not uncommon to have to adjust fifth wheel plates to compensate for wear. I understand that this isn’t an option on the B&W at least not that I am aware of.
Please keep us posted.
 

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BryanValRox

Elite Member
Hi folks, thanks for the picture.
I stand by my last suggestion, see if a friend or dealership will allow you to hook to a different unit and see if you still experience the same issue or experience it as bad.
IMHO, and without trying to offend you, that pin is in terrible shape. rust, corrosion and what appears to be a ledge in the reduced diameter area(about 1 to 2 o’clock). There also appears to be dirt and debris built up at the top of the pin just below what appears to be a Teflon plate.
The picture would support lack of proper lubricant and perhaps reliance on a Teflon plate without regard to any grease being applied to the pin pivot. I would be concerned about your jaws as well for the same reason.
You might consider cleaning the pin up so you can better access the surface for wear.
Respectfully, please don’t shoot the messenger, I am only trying to help by providing my assessment of your picture.
Should I be ducking for cover????
 
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bozworth

Member
The lube plate hasn't always been there. I tried it for troubleshooting purposes. You can see the grease squeezing through above. But to your point, that looks like normal wear to me. Are you saying that you lube your jaws and pin enough that there's no paint wear? And would that cause the problem I'm trying to troubleshoot?

Also this is our second RV but same hitch. No issues with the last one.
 

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BryanValRox

Elite Member
The lube plate hasn't always been there. I tried it for troubleshooting purposes. You can see the grease squeezing through above. But to your point, that looks like normal wear to me. Are you saying that you lube your jaws and pin enough that there's no paint wear? And would that cause the problem I'm trying to troubleshoot?

Also this is our second RV but same hitch. No issues with the last one.
It would be best that you clean up that pin with a wire brush to get a better look. My concern is that there appeared to be a ledge formed in the smaller diameter at the top in one / two o’clock position. If there is in fact a ledge, that is wear and that will cause movement within the jaws.
The lube plate only reduces friction in the vertical direction between the 5th wheel head surface and the pin box surface.
It is very important the lube be applied to the pin itself because the jaws wrap around the reduced diameter area.
The pin is your pivot point for every lane change, drift and turn while traveling, so there is pretty much constant movement to some degree between the pin and jaws. Your jaws pull against the back side on the pin as you travel so keeping the pin properly lubricated is critical to reducing friction and wear.
My concern is that folks using Teflon plates might think that is all they need and they don’t need to bother with greasing anything else. This is not the case, as the pin and jaws still require maintenance to reduce friction and prevent wear.
 
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