Bike Storage Inside Avenue 23ML

[Slats]

We have E-bikes that we want to carry inside our new 2026 Avenue 23ML and figured out a way. While we considered purchasing a heavy duty E-bike hitch for the back of the RV, we decided against it for several reasons: 1) cost of a good E-bike RV hitch is $600+, 2) didn't want bikes to get so dirty / wet on the back of the RV, 3) concerned with damage to bikes / hitch when hitting bumps given how far hitch is behind wheels, 4) E-bikes are more secure, 5) E-bikes are less likely to get stolen when inside RV.

Attached are pictures of what we did. In a nutshell, we temporarily attached a 2x4 to the vertical parts of the bench seat backs using toggle clamps. The 2x4 removes / attaches to the bench seats in about 30 seconds and is very solid. The 2x4 can be attached higher or lower on the bench seats to better align with the type / size bike you have. We marked the location where we clamp the 2x4 to the bench seat backs using masking tape (about 6 inches down from the top of the bench seat). Next we used bike clamps from Amazon (may be able to get a less expensive one than we purchased).

We find that carrying the bikes into the trailer (one person on front and one on the back) and hooking up the 2x4 is as quick as getting the bikes on / off a typical bike hitch. Hope you find this useful.

 

[Oregon_Camper]

Works for you...AWESOME!!

 

[M and E]

We have E-bikes that we want to carry inside our new 2026 Avenue 23ML and figured out a way. While we considered purchasing a heavy duty E-bike hitch for the back of the RV, we decided against it for several reasons: 1) cost of a good E-bike RV hitch is $600+, 2) didn't want bikes to get so dirty / wet on the back of the RV, 3) concerned with damage to bikes / hitch when hitting bumps given how far hitch is behind wheels, 4) E-bikes are more secure, 5) E-bikes are less likely to get stolen when inside RV.

Attached are pictures of what we did. In a nutshell, we temporarily attached a 2x4 to the vertical parts of the bench seat backs using toggle clamps. The 2x4 removes / attaches to the bench seats in about 30 seconds and is very solid. The 2x4 can be attached higher or lower on the bench seats to better align with the type / size bike you have. We marked the location where we clamp the 2x4 to the bench seat backs using masking tape (about 6 inches down from the top of the bench seat). Next we used bike clamps from Amazon (may be able to get a less expensive one than we purchased).

We find that carrying the bikes into the trailer (one person on front and one on the back) and hooking up the 2x4 is as quick as getting the bikes on / off a typical bike hitch. Hope you find this useful.

I think you did a great job and this will help out a few riders! Good job!

 

[Mark & Kim]

I would be curious to see a few photos after traveling 300+ miles on our highways!

 

[Flyer32RLS]

Great workmanship but I agree with Oregon Camper. Wonder how they will ride after the numerous earthquakes.
For me, i'm too old to get them up the stairs. You have a younger wife? LOL

 

[Lantley]

I also carry my bikes inside of my 390MP.Bikes are out of the weather and always available. Bikes live in the RV 24/7 during camping season No unloading and loading bikes at home. I have a ramp I use to get ikes down the steps.
I chose this model year and floor plan with carrying bikes in mind. The door to the mid bunk room, AKA the bike room is a straight shot in from the entry door. On later model years the bunk room door was moved to the kitchen side which made loading bikes more difficult.
I removed the OEM sofa and now I have plenty of room for bikes.
My bikes are not solidly attached to anything per se. THey are bungee corded to each other. Creating a 4 wheel bike that can sort of self support.
From there it is bungee corded to keep them still and not allow them to move around.
I have a carpet mats and a 1/2" piece of PVC board beneath kickstands and wheels to protect the floor.

 

[UFF]

Watched a bike rack break of an RV and get drugged about a mile before I got him stopped (wife got lucky and got a text through to my buddy’s wife). He used a mount to raise it up higher and the factory china weld failed (top and side welds, only bottom weld for some reason did not give way but just bent down). Scary to watch smoke rolling off as it was being drug (which turned out to be the bike cover). Bikes surprisingly were unharmed. Took off the raised extension and remounted the bike rack and all is well.

So at least you won’t have that issue to worry about. Would like to see an update after you use your method a few times. Won’t work for my set up but sure might for others.

I will say if you are using a hitch mount bike rack keep it as close to the camper as possible. This will reduce the leverage effect as they bounce down our smooth highways.

 

[Lantley]

While I just removed the sofa a few months ago, I have been carrying the bikes inside the RV for 3 years now.
My last RV was a bunk model as well. Towards the end of my ownership,the kids were grown and went off to college.
This left the bunk room empty and the perfect place to store and transport my new at the time E bikes.
That is were the inside transport idea originated. I have been carrying bikes inside my bunk house 5'ers for at least 5 years at this point

 

[RockDr896]

We have E-bikes that we want to carry inside our new 2026 Avenue 23ML and figured out a way. While we considered purchasing a heavy duty E-bike hitch for the back of the RV, we decided against it for several reasons: 1) cost of a good E-bike RV hitch is $600+, 2) didn't want bikes to get so dirty / wet on the back of the RV, 3) concerned with damage to bikes / hitch when hitting bumps given how far hitch is behind wheels, 4) E-bikes are more secure, 5) E-bikes are less likely to get stolen when inside RV.

Attached are pictures of what we did. In a nutshell, we temporarily attached a 2x4 to the vertical parts of the bench seat backs using toggle clamps. The 2x4 removes / attaches to the bench seats in about 30 seconds and is very solid. The 2x4 can be attached higher or lower on the bench seats to better align with the type / size bike you have. We marked the location where we clamp the 2x4 to the bench seat backs using masking tape (about 6 inches down from the top of the bench seat). Next we used bike clamps from Amazon (may be able to get a less expensive one than we purchased).

We find that carrying the bikes into the trailer (one person on front and one on the back) and hooking up the 2x4 is as quick as getting the bikes on / off a typical bike hitch. Hope you find this useful.

My suggestion would be to get some touch up paint that matches those cabinets, if Alliance has some. Those 2x4's are going to wear the table walls out, where they are toggle clamped....eventually.

An idea I have, should you current setup not work out. You could make a pretty light rack, using
3 pieces of wood (at the 3 bottom tire spots)
aluminum angle (for vertical moments)
Aluminum flat pieces ( to tie in top angles together)
Place (2) two steel angles or Ring anchors, under the table against the wall and rope cam the rack in place
You might also use wing nuts, so the rack can be broken down into pieces.
No welding required.

 

[Lantley]

RocDoc you offer sound advice. However once again I am jilted by the RV industry. I traded in my last 2 rigs vs. selling private party.
The RV dealers really didn't care about the condition of my old unit.
Well I won't say they didn't care at all, but they didn't care as much as I did.
They gave it a cursory glance and moved on.
They did not look close enough to appreciate what great shape it was in. Why? Because they didn't care.
It was just a commodity that they were going to price using standard procedure (book value) and move on.
My point is for personal purposes stain the scratches and keep everything as pristine as possible, however come trade in time none of that really matters especially if you keep your rig a long time like I do.10-12 years.
.It's really a shame but the dealers don't look close enough to appreciate a pristine unit.
Now if the unit is a total worn out dog maybe they would throw a red flag?
But at long as it is acceptable on the surface they won't take a hard look at the unit.
I guess its another reason to sell yourself private party in order to reap the benefits of keeping your rig in good shape.
However selling yourself vs. trade in is a whole other topic for another post someday.

 

[RockDr896]

RocDoc you offer sound advice. However once again I am jilted by the RV industry. I traded in my last 2 rigs vs. selling private party.
The RV dealers really didn't care about the condition of my old unit.
Well I won't say they didn't care at all, but they didn't care as much as I did.
They gave it a cursory glance and moved on.
They did not look close enough to appreciate what great shape it was in. Why? Because they didn't care.
It was just a commodity that they were going to price using standard procedure (book value) and move on.
My point is for personal purposes stain the scratches and keep everything as pristine as possible, however come trade in time none of that really matters especially if you keep your rig a long time like I do.10-12 years.
.It's really a shame but the dealers don't look close enough to appreciate a pristine unit.
Now if the unit is a total worn out dog maybe they would throw a red flag?
But at long as it is acceptable on the surface they won't take a hard look at the unit.
I guess its another reason to sell yourself private party in order to reap the benefits of keeping your rig in good shape.
However selling yourself vs. trade in is a whole other topic for another post someday.

I don't disagree one bit. I am having fun with my 1st experience with an RV and having survived the modify and upgrade repairs I have made. The wife and I are going to stay at a close campground for 30 days this year and really test whether a long trip out west in an RV is for us. I always knew before buying, that if sold after 5 years, we could lose half the RV value at least. The RV's second life, would be a person looking to live in it and most likely looking for a deal. I have yet to visit the idea of donating it to Vehicles for Veterans or some other organization (Escape the negotiation phase). We are coming on year 4 now, so I am starting to ask the questions of whether this is a long term thing at my age of 61. Maybe I go to a van conversion and go back to a modified car camping configuration........the next 3 years is going to be a big factor in my decision. Let's see what happens to currency and my desire to hold this rig into the undercarriage and frame issues...

 

[Slats]

I would be curious to see a few photos after traveling 300+ miles on our highways!

Just completed a 10 day trip of 700 miles with 2 stops. The bikes were rock solid when we arrived at both locations and back home. This included curvy / bouncy roads through the mountains of Southwest Virginia. I think several things contributed to the solid ride: 1) The bike tires were sitting on the RV floor over the RV trailer tires (less bouncing than on the end of the RV), 2) The 2x4's purpose was to hold the bikes vertical but NOT support their weight. Proper adjustment of the toggle clamps and bike clamps I believe is key to solid ride. I did notice some impressions in the wood where the rubber part of the toggle clamps attach the 2x4. I'm thinking a small metal plate like is used for magnetic cabinet mount or strike plate would distribute the force. Still tweaking things to make it better. Appreciate all of the feedback.

 

[Slats]

I also carry my bikes inside of my 390MP.Bikes are out of the weather and always available. Bikes live in the RV 24/7 during camping season No unloading and loading bikes at home. I have a ramp I use to get ikes down the steps.
I chose this model year and floor plan with carrying bikes in mind. The door to the mid bunk room, AKA the bike room is a straight shot in from the entry door. On later model years the bunk room door was moved to the kitchen side which made loading bikes more difficult.
I removed the OEM sofa and now I have plenty of room for bikes.
My bikes are not solidly attached to anything per se. THey are bungee corded to each other. Creating a 4 wheel bike that can sort of self support.
From there it is bungee corded to keep them still and not allow them to move around.
I have a carpet mats and a 1/2" piece of PVC board beneath kickstands and wheels to protect the floor.
View attachment 5323
View attachment 5322
View attachment 5321

Very nice. Wish I had the room you do but a 27 ft long 5th wheel requires making use of every area possible. Thanks.

 

[Slats]

My suggestion would be to get some touch up paint that matches those cabinets, if Alliance has some. Those 2x4's are going to wear the table walls out, where they are toggle clamped....eventually.

An idea I have, should you current setup not work out. You could make a pretty light rack, using
3 pieces of wood (at the 3 bottom tire spots)
aluminum angle (for vertical moments)
Aluminum flat pieces ( to tie in top angles together)
Place (2) two steel angles or Ring anchors, under the table against the wall and rope cam the rack in place
You might also use wing nuts, so the rack can be broken down into pieces.
No welding required.

Touch up paint is a good idea. I'm planning on taking a part with me (e.g. cabinet door) and having Lowes / Home Depot scan the door to match the paint. You can get the 'sample' size containers for $5 to $7 each.

 

[Slats]

I think you did a great job and this will help out a few riders! Good job!

One issue I'm experiencing is the 2x4 is beginning to twist a little bit. I don't think it is due to 'stress' of the bikes but due to fast growing lumber that is beginning to dry out. So much for the old days where lumber was grown more slowly and growth rings were much small (more stable lumber).

 

[M and E]

One issue I'm experiencing is the 2x4 is beginning to twist a little bit. I don't think it is due to 'stress' of the bikes but due to fast growing lumber that is beginning to dry out. So much for the old days where lumber was grown more slowly and growth rings were much small (more stable lumber).

Maybe swap it out for a kiln dried or LSL 2x4?

 

[Headed West]

Touch up paint is a good idea. I'm planning on taking a part with me (e.g. cabinet door) and having Lowes / Home Depot scan the door to match the paint. You can get the 'sample' size containers for $5 to $7 each.

I had Home Depot match the paint. Removed the bathroom's towel hanger board and replaced it with a longer one to add a full size 30 inch towel bar. Birch wood. The original 2 octopus towel hanger hardware aren't of much use, the towels would be bunched up and not dry. Home Depot just scanned the color from the original board that I removed, the color match is perfect. I used "eggshell" but "satin" might have been a better choice.