Some of this matches my camper, so some mysteries are solved. The yellow fuse and blue wire nut likely leads to my fridge. The connection to the white "always on" breaker with a big red and white wire likely leads to my converter.
Getting back to things that I lay awake at night thinking about, in an email, Carter Cantrell from Alliance said this:
Hydro leveling will be on a 50 amp white face breaker and I think electric is too. It would be from the controller to the mini breaker.
I already determined that the mystery wire with a blue X in my previous image runs power to the leveling system. It was hooked up to the bus bar, not to a breaker, and there was only one such wire, not two, but the pic is for campers with hydraulic leveling and a compressor and my camper has neither of those.
I'm guessing that the tan wire on mine leads to the tank heaters. I never intend to be anywhere those are needed.
The purple one likely powers the slides.
Looking forward to our six week trip this summer, it crossed my mind that, while they're pretty reliable, those self-resetting breakers do fail. Murphy says this will happen at the worst possible time. Dealing with such a failure would mean shutting down my camper's entire electrical system, disconnecting the batteries, removing the batteries, then removing the battery boxes. I was picturing myself doing those things instead of something I want to do in a beautiful northern Michigan campground.
So I tore it all back apart and moved stuff some more.
Now they are up where I can get to them with the batteries installed.
The distinction between switched and unswitched power on a camper continues to elude me. For example, in the pic of the Valor electrics that I got from Alliance, the power lead from the tow vehicle is connected to the switched bus bar. Ummm... so what if you switched your batteries off before towing?
Having all power switched just makes more sense to me, so that's how it is now. One big wire from my Lynx panel feeds the bigger bus bar, which just has a jumper to the little one. The white 50 amp breakers now connect to house power and the leveling system. The green 30 amp ones are, I believe, tank heat and slide rooms. A few are unused. If I have a problem with any this summer, it should not spiral into a major project.
To make it fit, I removed the factory generator power box. I left the wires in their conduit and tied the old converter power lead and some mysterious gray wire to the conduit and stuffed it behind all the other wires. I might have a failure of my fancy blue inverter and want that converter power back, and I might one day want a more extensive inverter system that could be hooked into the old generator wiring to run the whole camper.
And here it is with the batteries back in place and a cover to prevent accidental shorts.
Now I just have to remove the battery box lids to get at it and the red electrical tape behind the wires at the far right of the pic is the end of the old converter wire, should I need it.
