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12v Disconnect

I have discovered that our fridge is not on the 12v disconnect switch located in the front bay. Is this standard practice for Alliance? Ran the battery down because I thought that disconnect shut off ALL dc power to the distribution panel inside.
 

darrell

Well-known member
Some things are powered before the disconnect for safety reasons, but I am not sure why the fridge would be wired that way. I cannot speak to whether is it normal, but I would not expect that.
 
Yes, I know its not on the disconnect. My question is, is this the normal configuration or was this a wiring mistake made at the factory?
 

1911LVR

Active member
Discovered my 37MBR is the same way. It's using a separate 20A fuse in the front compartment. I was curious about what the other connections were, now I know.
 

darrell

Well-known member
Personally, I would not want a large load on the safety side of the disconnect switch. If they are wiring the fridge that way on purpose, it is my opinion they are doing it wrong. I prefer to have as much battery capacity available to safety devices when the disconnect is in operation.
 
I completely understand the safety stuff being connected. I am only asking because we just bought our Alliance and we are having some warranty work done soon, and if this is a wiring mistake we want it corrected while its in the shop for the other issues.
 

darrell

Well-known member
If it were mine, I would move the fridge to the switched side of the disconnect switch. I would characterize it as a mistake, but Alliance appears to believe it is not. If that is true, you will have to pay or the change or do it yourself if you want it done differently.
 

Oregon_Camper

Forum Admin
Staff member
Personally, I would not want a large load on the safety side of the disconnect switch. If they are wiring the fridge that way on purpose, it is my opinion they are doing it wrong. I prefer to have as much battery capacity available to safety devices when the disconnect is in operation.
Well, 5-6 amp (while compressor is running) is not a large load. The jacks will pull 50-60amps under load.
 

Oregon_Camper

Forum Admin
Staff member
If it were mine, I would move the fridge to the switched side of the disconnect switch. I would characterize it as a mistake, but Alliance appears to believe it is not. If that is true, you will have to pay or the change or do it yourself if you want it done differently.
and when the fuse pops for some unknown reason on the main busbar, then all your frig/freezer items will most likely spoil, unless you notice right away.
 

darrell

Well-known member
Or, you know, your batteries die and your brakes no longer work if a disconnect occurs. How does where your fridge is wired in change whether the fuse pops or not? I am not following your logic here.
 

Oregon_Camper

Forum Admin
Staff member
Or, you know, your batteries die and your brakes no longer work if a disconnect occurs. How does where your fridge is wired in change whether the fuse pops or not? I am not following your logic here.
You need a better battery bank, if they are dead if/when the trailer 7-pin comes disconnected.
 

darrell

Well-known member
You are making some pretty big assumptions there about my setup just based on a recommendation I made for someone else's trailer. We disagree. it is ok that we disagree.
 

Socal-Paul

Well-known member
Our refer runs with the disconnect switch off which is the way all our rigs have been set up by the factory. If I'm getting ready for a trip the switch is turned off to remove any other loads which maybe running with the switch on, I do not have power where the rig is stored. While out if we take a road trip for a day or two the switch is also shut off. If you want it both ways I would guess a switch on the negative would do the trick.
 
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