Solar doesn’t seem to be pushing anything to the batteries

[andy_anderson]

Anyone an expert in the solar systems? Single panel (i think 200w) up on the roof. Charge controller (yes programmed for Li) shows panels sending power to batteries (200ah lithium). But shunt shows nothing going into batteries.
Picture 1 is with fridge cycling,
picture 2 is with absolutely everything turned off.
Picture 3 is the rich solar controller.
Pic 4 screenshot from phone app showing only 2w sending to battery.

Awaiting voltmeter for further diagnostics.

Mid day, unobstructed sun. Panel is clean. Battery terminals clean.

Any good ideas?

 

[andy_anderson]

For additional context, we went on this goose chase because after the trailer was parked for a week at my house the batteries were dead. I’m confident everything was powered off. No lights. No fridge. Southern California, full sun exposure all day. The panel should maintain a charge right?

 

[BryanValRox]

So, the first question would be, how many masters switches do your have? If two, one is 12 v and one is Solar.
Did you leave the Solar Master on during storage.
Based on your pictures and without additional context, I have to question why your solar charger shows a voltage output value of 14.4 volts but your display only shows 13.1 volts. It would seem that you have a large voltage drop somewhere in the system if these pictures represent the same moment in time.

Also as a fyi, has your display been calibrated for the correct battery rating?

 

[andy_anderson]

So, the first question would be, how many masters switches do your have? If two, one is 12 v and one is Solar.
Did you leave the Solar Master on during storage.
Based on your pictures and without additional context, I have to question why your solar charger shows a voltage output value of 14.4 volts but your display only shows 13.1 volts. It would seem that you have a large voltage drop somewhere in the system if these pictures represent the same moment in time.

Also as an fyi, has your display been calibrated for the correct battery rating?

Great questions. I got a multi meter today to check that out regarding calibration and the output discrepancies.

Also I only have one battery disconnect switch witch just shuts down my 12v side.

 

[BryanValRox]

Great questions. I got a multi meter today to check that out regarding calibration and the output discrepancies.

Also I only have one battery disconnect switch witch just shuts down my 12v side.

So, the calibration would likely be just setting the Amp hour rating in your display to match the battery installed.
You indicated that you only have one master, so in order for the solar to keep the battery topped off while in storage, you need to check which side of the master switch the solar output charge wires are landed to. The only way it would charge with the master in the off position while in storage would be if the solar charge output is landed direct to the battery or the supply side of the master switch Or unswitched BUSS Bar. Glad you got a meter to explore the voltage difference documented in your pictures.

 

[M and E]

The 14.4 V is the voltage the battery will charge to before going into float. That part is fine. My opinion, the bigger issue is the 2W output.

I don't know what arrow you'd press on that unit to scroll, but get to PV voltage. 0 volts, the panel is not connected or a defective connection. I think if you are at 20V 24V the panel works but the controller or the battery is refusing charge.

Since your battery went dead, you might have to "wake" your battery. Attach a charger or a jump box with boost. It might solve the problem.

 

[andy_anderson]

The 14.4 V is the voltage the battery will charge to before going into float. That part is fine. My opinion, the bigger issue is the 2W output.

I don't know what arrow you'd press on that unit to scroll, but get to PV voltage. 0 volts, the panel is not connected or a defective connection. I think if you are at 20V 24V the panel works but the controller or the battery is refusing charge.

Since your battery went dead, you might have to "wake" your battery. Attach a charger or a jump box with boost. It might solve the problem.

Will report back tomorrow to see what the menu on the charge controller reveals. I guess I’m trying to figure out if the sending side is defunct, or possibly the receiving side. They WILL take a charge when plugged in to shore power / a generator. So I’m inclined to think its something on the solar side, not so much battery side n

 

[Hilldweller]

It looks to me like your controller thinks it's a lead-acid battery, that it's fully charged, and that it's in float/maintenance mode. Remember that lead-acid batteries self-discharge, sulfate, and always need to be maintained to be healthy. I'd check that program again on the controller. The Victron on my brand new unit defaulted back to lead-acid three times before it stuck on lithium for some reason. I've got a 320ah battery and it wouldn't charge it to full until I finally convinced it that it really was lithium.
One of the things I liked about my old Renogy was that you could input every single facet of what you were charging. Input lithium, 12v, # of amp hours, and watch it work.

 

[M and E]

It looks to me like your controller thinks it's a lead-acid battery, that it's fully charged, and that it's in float/maintenance mode. Remember that lead-acid batteries self-discharge, sulfate, and always need to be maintained to be healthy. I'd check that program again on the controller. The Victron on my brand new unit defaulted back to lead-acid three times before it stuck on lithium for some reason. I've got a 320ah battery and it wouldn't charge it to full until I finally convinced it that it really was lithium.
One of the things I liked about my old Renogy was that you could input every single facet of what you were charging. Input lithium, 12v, # of amp hours, and watch it work.

I think that battery icon in the lower corner says “LI”.

 

[Oregon_Camper]

I think that battery icon in the lower corner says “LI”.

It sure does

 

[andy_anderson]

Hello all. Update for today:
Update on today’s troubleshooting:


Spent a few hours with a multimeter tracing the solar charging circuit. Here’s what we’ve found:

• Solar panel voltage measured directly at Rich Solar controller: 22.4V
• Controller sending to battery output: 14.4V
• Actual voltage measured at both lithium batteries: 13.7V
• LiTime shunt displaying 13.3V, despite the batteries measuring 13.7V directly.
• Rich Solar controller reporting only 0.13–0.14A (approximately 2W) of charging in direct sunlight.

We traced the positive output wire from the Rich Solar controller directly to the top yellow DC breaker on the distribution assembly.


Using the same negative reference point for all measurements:

• Solar controller side of breaker: 14.4V
• Opposite side of breaker: 13.3V
• Copper distribution bus and other studs: 13.3V
• Measured directly across the two studs of that breaker: 1.06V

Repeated the measurements several times with consistent results.


The yellow breaker is cool to the touch, has no visible reset button, and I couldn’t find an amperage rating or part number.


Current suspicion: The yellow breaker may be tripped, failed internally, or have a poor connection. The persistent 1.06V difference across it suggests the solar controller’s output isn’t properly reaching the battery distribution system.


We haven’t confirmed the breaker is defective yet.


Next step: Safely isolate the rooftop solar panel and battery supply, then test continuity across the breaker maybe?


Does anyone know the factory amperage rating for that yellow breaker, or has anyone experienced a similar issue with this distribution assembly?


I’ll attach photos of the breaker and controller readings.

 

[Hilldweller]

I think that battery icon in the lower corner says “LI”.

It sure does

Which doesn’t necessarily translate into it working properly. Every company makes their lithium profile based on a generic set of parameters. Which might not match the OP’s battery. Or it might not be programed properly at all. There should be a way to override the lithium profile in the program to a custom one that he can based off the specs from the battery manufacturer.

 

[andy_anderson]

Which doesn’t necessarily translate into it working properly. Every company makes their lithium profile based on a generic set of parameters. Which might not batch the OP’s battery. Or it might not be programed properly at all. There should be a way to override the lithium profile in the program to a custom one that he can based off the specs from the battery manufacturer.

I looked through the LiTime charging specs and made sure it’s all good within the charger. Your correct you can customize the profile. But read above. I think I’ve isolated a bad post breaker at the bus bar. Voltage isn’t passing across.

 

[BryanValRox]

Hello all. Update for today:
Update on today’s troubleshooting:


Spent a few hours with a multimeter tracing the solar charging circuit. Here’s what we’ve found:

• Solar panel voltage measured directly at Rich Solar controller: 22.4V
• Controller sending to battery output: 14.4V
• Actual voltage measured at both lithium batteries: 13.7V
• LiTime shunt displaying 13.3V, despite the batteries measuring 13.7V directly.
• Rich Solar controller reporting only 0.13–0.14A (approximately 2W) of charging in direct sunlight.

We traced the positive output wire from the Rich Solar controller directly to the top yellow DC breaker on the distribution assembly.


Using the same negative reference point for all measurements:

• Solar controller side of breaker: 14.4V
• Opposite side of breaker: 13.3V
• Copper distribution bus and other studs: 13.3V
• Measured directly across the two studs of that breaker: 1.06V

Repeated the measurements several times with consistent results.


The yellow breaker is cool to the touch, has no visible reset button, and I couldn’t find an amperage rating or part number.


Current suspicion: The yellow breaker may be tripped, failed internally, or have a poor connection. The persistent 1.06V difference across it suggests the solar controller’s output isn’t properly reaching the battery distribution system.


We haven’t confirmed the breaker is defective yet.


Next step: Safely isolate the rooftop solar panel and battery supply, then test continuity across the breaker maybe?


Does anyone know the factory amperage rating for that yellow breaker, or has anyone experienced a similar issue with this distribution assembly?


I’ll attach photos of the breaker and controller readings.

Your results are in-line with my original concern regarding voltage drop.
A very easy temporary test would be just to make a short jumper wire or equal gauge and hold the bare ends across the breaker terminals. This effectively by passes the breaker. If your voltage falls in line with your charger output, the breaker becomes the suspect for an internal failure and or corrosion causing the higher resistance and voltage loss.

Nice, detailed and specific reporting !!!!

 

[BryanValRox]

Which doesn’t necessarily translate into it working properly. Every company makes their lithium profile based on a generic set of parameters. Which might not batch the OP’s battery. Or it might not be programed properly at all. There should be a way to override the lithium profile in the program to a custom one that he can based off the specs from the battery manufacturer.

You are 100% correct on all accounts. Most controllers have custom users settings.
Based on the latest info from the OP’s, it feels like the voltage drop needs to be tracked down and corrected first.(Just my opinion of course)

 

[BryanValRox]

Also, you need to determine if that Buss Bar is switched via the master switch or unswitched.
If it is switch, Solar charge voltage will not make its way back to the battery while in storage with the master off. The Solar Charge line would need to be relocated and landed as described in my post above.

 

[Hilldweller]

Deenergize and disconnect everything. Measure the resistance everywhere where there shouldn’t be any. RV manufacturers are fairly notorious for bad crimps.

 

[BryanValRox]

This might help if you have the same brand of breaker.
You might be undersized on its rating.

 

[andy_anderson]

I think we found problem. This breaker attached to the bussbar (the top one from the earlier picture) is definitely bad. Confirmed with voltmeter. Ordered replacement for delivery tomorrow. Will report back after install. 20amp breaker if anyone was wondering.

 

[M and E]

I think we found problem. This breaker attached to the bussbar (the top one from the earlier picture) is definitely bad. Confirmed with voltmeter. Ordered replacement for delivery tomorrow. Will report back after install. 20amp breaker if anyone was wondering.

That's great news!!