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Level Up leaves suspension suspended

KCAlis

Well-known member
Has anyone else had their Lippert Level Up system go through side to side leveling then as the last step raise the front so much it leaves wheels off the pavement?

We’ve had this happen consistently with the driver’s side tires hanging about an inch above the pavement. The sites have been level. And if they weren’t why only the driver side?

The trailer winds up level as confirmed with a 4’ level side to side in the front, middle and rear.

Do we need to recalibrate the system? Would like to gain some stability. (X-chocks are worthless on a free-hanging tandem!)
 

BryanValRox

Elite Member
Has anyone else had their Lippert Level Up system go through side to side leveling then as the last step raise the front so much it leaves wheels off the pavement?

We’ve had this happen consistently with the driver’s side tires hanging about an inch above the pavement. The sites have been level. And if they weren’t why only the driver side?

The trailer winds up level as confirmed with a 4’ level side to side in the front, middle and rear.

Do we need to recalibrate the system? Would like to gain some stability. (X-chocks are worthless on a free-hanging tandem!)
Well, only offering an opinion here.
When wheels come off the ground many times it is related to slope/taper of a given site. This typically can be resolved by starting with some wheel leveling on the low side before starting the auto level process.
Having said that, the system determines level based on front and rear sensors mounted on the center line of the frame.
Sometimes these sensors come loose from their mounting which obviously impacts their accuracy.
I doubt that a system recalibration will correct your issue, but if you travel this route, I would ensure your sensors are mounted securely, manually level the rig with your level, then power down and perform the button dance to set the new reference point.
My experience is that if a site is more than about 2 inches out, wheel lift is at risk.

One of the keys to stability is to keep your jack extensions to a minimum, so blocking or leveling buckets under your jack pads take up the large portion of the distance and keep jack extension to a minimum.

We use a the Level Mate Pro system to get a feel for how level the site is when we pull in to drive the decision to wheel level or not( most times not for our camping style)

If you are experiencing one side off the ground, in my mind that would support a site slope or taper that is more out of level then it looks.

Also while this might be a reach, are all of your suspension pivot points moving freely?
 

RockDr896

Prominent Member
I experienced the issue, when I first got my trailer. I never read directions, but this made me use a skill, seldom used, so I read...LOL. Make sure you always use auto level, with the hitch end slightly above level. The system levels front to rear first and then side to side. Never the other way around. Try that and see if the issue goes away.

Another thing you can try, is to disconnect the 12V from the leveling module....Follow wire from control pad...then track wire to the battery connection. It is just a simple clip connection and easier than unhooking batteries. That will reset the system board. It turns out that the cache needs to be cleared, if you have had too many errors....

Like Bryan, I use buckets to deal with preventing extending the cylinders too much. I use snap pads in the middle and back and buckets in the front. If my site requires them in the back, I just switch the buckets from the front to the back.
 

Flyer32RLS

Well-known member
Might also consider that once level, to a calibration of your level system. Instructions are all over and easy to find. That could be the problem if it is raising your wheels off the ground and it started from a level position.
I just purchased this to help with side to side leveling upon arrival.
Sorry, you have to cut and paste, link no worky!

Beech Lane Wireless RV Leveling System, Made in the USA, User-Friendly Phone App With Real-Time Precise Leveling Measurements, Advanced
 

KCAlis

Well-known member
I just rolled in to a semi-level site in FL. Tried out a new process. Unhitched then lowered the pin box about a foot and a half which forced the leveling system to raise the nose several times before leveling side to side.

End result - “Success” without raising the driver side wheels.

I may take the time to recalibrate when we get to GSP next week. Thanks for the tip on powering down.
 

BryanValRox

Elite Member
I just rolled in to a semi-level site in FL. Tried out a new process. Unhitched then lowered the pin box about a foot and a half which forced the leveling system to raise the nose several times before leveling side to side.

End result - “Success” without raising the driver side wheels.

I may take the time to recalibrate when we get to GSP next week. Thanks for the tip on powering down.
Glad things worked out for you!
Just a fyi, based on the instructions and my experience, auto level will(should) only work if the rig is nose high.
Also, as RockDr previously indicated, the auto level process starts with up and down(front to back) and then proceeds to side to side before finalizing up and down.
 

2 Allies

Prominent Member
Glad things worked out for you!
Just a fyi, based on the instructions and my experience, auto level will(should) only work if the rig is nose high.
Also, as RockDr previously indicated, the auto level process starts with up and down(front to back) and then proceeds to side to side before finalizing up and down.
That is correct. The logic built into the Lippert controller is looking for the level point as it goes down. It goes past the point and then returns to level. It says it also helps with remembering the hitch height as you should be above level when unhooking.

AI says:
According to official Lippert Technical Support Documentations, the auto-level sequence MUST be started with the front of the trailer above level (nose-high). [1] (https://support.lci1.com/documents/ccd-0001498)
If the system detects that the nose is below level when you push the button, it will alter or disable core programming functions. [1] (https://support.lci1.com/documents/ccd-0001498)

1. The Official Manual Rules

The official Lippert Ground Control 3.0 and Level Up user manuals explicitly state:
• The "Hitch Recognition" memory feature requires it: The auto-level sequence must be started with the front of the trailer above level. If started in a below-level condition, the Hitch Recognition will fail to store the hookup height, and the LCD screen will read "Feature Disabled." [1] (https://www.keystoneforums.com/threads/ground-control-3-0.638023/), [2] (https://support.lci1.com/documents/ccd-0001498)
• The Sensor Alert lights guide you: Lippert touchpads feature left, right, front, and rear indicator arrows. If the front orange arrow light is flashing, the system is actively telling you the front of the unit is too low and needs to be manually raised above level before hitting Auto-Level. [1] (
)

2. Why the Firmware Prefers "Nose-High"

The algorithmic sequence hardcoded into the Lippert control module runs through a precise pattern:
1. When you press Auto Level, the system's first major dynamic movement is always to lower the nose. [1] (https://www.mygrandrv.com/threads/s...tion-22rk-tips-errors-and-variations.2186057/)
2. It drives the front landing gear down until the internal sensors transition from a positive slope (nose-high) to a negative slope (nose-low).
3. Once it records that crossover point, it stops, raises the nose back up to split the difference (finding true front-to-back center), and immediately moves to deploying the rear jacks. [1] (https://support.lci1.com/videos/how-to-operate-your-rv-level-up-leveling-system)
If you start with the nose already low, the system is blindsided by the negative reading. It may continue driving the front jacks down to look for the missing crossover point, causing the system to run out of stroke length or time out completely. [1] (https://www.keystoneforums.com/threads/ground-control-3-0.638023/)

The Confusion in the RV Community

Many seasoned RVers deliberately drop the nose 1 to 2 inches below level before leveling because they have found it shortens the landing jack travel distance, lowers the final profile of the rig, and reduces "Out of Stroke" errors on highly unlevel campsites. [1] (
), [2] (https://www.mygrandrv.com/threads/s...tion-22rk-tips-errors-and-variations.2186057/)
However, doing this is a user workaround, not official Lippert protocol. If you want the smart features—like hitch recognition—to work flawlessly every time, stick to what Lippert mandates: unhitch, pull your truck away, leave it nose-high, and hit Auto Level. [1] (https://www.keystoneforums.com/threads/ground-control-3-0.638023/), [2] (https://support.lci1.com/documents/ccd-0001498)
Are you trying to resolve an "Auto Level Failure" or an "Out of Stroke" error right now, or are you just setting up camp?
 

Lantley

Elite Member
My auto hitch works very well as well. I think it's one of the best features of the entire RV.
I would not want to go back to the world when auto hitch did not exist, been there and done that.
 

Erik

Member
Auto level works very well on my rig, but I must join the consensus that auto hitch is never quite right...have to adjust a little manually every time.
 

RockDr896

Prominent Member
Yeah, it is just a "fixed height" at the time you disconnect. It will only work at the site you disconnect at. With every site being sloped different, it will always need to be adjusted. I am calling it a sales feature, that is silly. Probably a sales feedback feature, that made the cut...LOL....
 

Flyer32RLS

Well-known member
Auto level works very well on my rig, but I must join the consensus that auto hitch is never quite right...have to adjust a little manually every time.
Sounds like it might need a calibration. IT should level itself without any adjustments.
 

BryanValRox

Elite Member
Just wondering if the hitch type might have something to do with one’s experience with Auto Hitch.
For example a gooseneck would raise directly off the ball and above so that one can drive away.
A fifth wheel hitch would disconnect with the plate level and then tilt down via gravity.
I wonder if one’s comfort level comes into play regarding the plane at which the pin and plate meet on the slope of the plate prior to backing under and connecting. Just thinking out loud.
 

Lantley

Elite Member
Just wondering if the hitch type might have something to do with one’s experience with Auto Hitch.
For example a gooseneck would raise directly off the ball and above so that one can drive away.
A fifth wheel hitch would disconnect with the plate level and then tilt down via gravity.
I wonder if one’s comfort level comes into play regarding the plane at which the pin and plate meet on the slope of the plate prior to backing under and connecting. Just thinking out loud.
My return to hitch height works OK It's not exactly precise. But it works well enough for my needs.
But as you mentioned, In order for it to be exactly precise the truck would have to be in the exact precise position that it unhooked from.
Not angled differently or approached slightly Askew from where it was unhitched. The slope of the ground also plays a point because if the truck's not in the exact same spot then the slope may be different from where it was unhitched. All minor details but enough to Impact the accuracy of the Return to hitch height feature.
 
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