2.batteries not keeping charge.

[Maxi1966]

Greetings again.
Delta 2026 252 RL
We are boon-docking at Joshua's tree National park.
We drove for 5 hrs from Phoenix. The rv was parked outside the house for 2 days prior this. Solar panels totally exposed to full sun.
You would think that batteries should be at 100 percent.
The refrigerator/freezer was nice and cold. We put our food in it, then arrived to the campsite, noticed a nice cold freezer, but the fridge not so much. Power at 5. Nothing was impeding the internal openings from cooling the lower fridge. Maybe the food load? But was in the house fridge all night!!

Turned on the generator for the allowed 2 hrs a little bit later.
As soon as we tuned it off the BATT monitor Indicator displayed full. 2 min later batteries Indicator went to empty.
All we had on was the fridge. Nothing else.
Batteries are 10 months old, acid batteries installed by Blue compass interstate brand.
We had total 831 miles before this trip. Rig is from Aug 2025. Brand new.
Are we dealing with bad batteries. Time for lithium?
How do I check if the converter is working fine? Is the converter even part of the equation? All we are using is 12 V appliances!!
Help!!!

 

[M and E]

Quick and dirty response. Don't rely on the battery indicator, it could be faulty. Use a multimeter. Test each battery voltage at rest...one bad cell in one battery will drain both quickly. Check voltage while generator is running...if it stays at 12.X your converter may be bad/breaker off, poor or broken connection. Check voltage while solar is charging, but I do not know what the voltage should read during this test. Load test each battery. Inspect water level/cables/fuses/disconnect. If one battery is bad, there are very few arguments supporting replacing lead acid with anything other than lithium in an RV. I might have bias on that subject though so fact check it.

 

[Maxi1966]

I live dirty responses!!thank you for the input. Doing it now!!! Will keep you posted. Thanks again for taking the time to answer.

 

[Oregon_Camper]

Dealer installs the cheapest batteries possible. First thing I would do is test that converter is charging. Next, replace these with Lithium.

 

[Long Islander]

The battery indicator in your trailer is basically measuring the DC voltage level in your trailer. If you are plugged in the battery meter will read fully charged because the converter (the device the converts AC to 12V DC) is putting out over 13 volts and it won't see the batteries. If you unplug the trailer or turn off the converter you will get a better indication of the condition of the batteries. You should not let lead acid batteries drop below 50% of their stated capacity otherwise the cells will be damaged. I learned this lesson the hard way. A quest mistakenly turned off the switch that feeds AC to our trailer and the parasitic loads (smoke and gas detector, etc) completely killed our lead acid battery. I assume that you have DC powered Refrigerator, instead of a propane/AC frig. If so the DC frig uses close to 100AH of battery power per day. I installed two 100AH lithium Iron Phosphate in our trailer and they will run our trailer for over 2 days without sunshine, but we don't have an inverter, so nothing AC powered works when we are on battery power. If it is sunny, our 460 watt solar panel has our batteries fully charged by 11 AM. I hope this helps.

 

[Maxi1966]

Of course. It make sense. I ended up checking the level of water in the batteries. One was normal, the other had not water in it!!! Interstate brand 12 months warranty they are 10
Months old!!
I will install 2 lithium batteries. Did anyone change anything else? Is the charger in a 2026 252 RL design to charge lithium ion?

 

[Flyer32RLS]

Of course. It make sense. I ended up checking the level of water in the batteries. One was normal, the other had not water in it!!! Totally flying. Interstate brand 12 months warranty. Try are 10
Months old!!
I will install 2 lithium batteries. Did anyone change anything else? Is the charger in a 2026 252 RL design to charge lithium ion?

Maxi,
Don't have a 252RL. Ours is a 20205 32RLS but probably pretty close. Your converter (AC to DC) is what you are looking for. Ours is behind the 12V breaker panel. Not sure where yours might be. Check on it. Our converter is a WF 9855 AD. AD meaning auto detect. No switching required. Also the solar charger needs to be changed. Ours is a MPPT 100/30 Solar Charger Controller. The unit usually is in the forward storage area. Look at the very bottom. There is a small rotary switch. I think it is to be on #7 for lithium. The manual online will let you know for sure.
Now all that is simple but you will be told by many that you will also need a DC-DC charger for when your tow vehicle is connected to your RV it will charge the batteries and can damage your alternator. There is some understanding needed on this. You do NOT need a DC-DC charger if you disconnect while camping. I get my information from the NRVTA (National RV Training Academy) videos. They train inspectors so think they have an idea if needed or not. T If you disconnect your 7 way plug while parked, you are good. While traveling, the vehicle alternator will charge your RV battery but it is not a big charge unless you have a larger alternator. My truck as a 410Amp alternator so I'm good plus Solar charging.
Good Luck!
Happy Glamping!!

 

[Socal-Paul]

My bet would be the acid was never put in the battery to start with, has happened to me.

 

[Maxi1966]

OK Further investigation!!
One of the Interstate cheap batteries had no fluid. Cells were exposed. Added some distilled water just to go on util Saturday. Still no charge holding… they are toasted.
Tuesday this puppy goes in for warranty checking. The damn Gfci keeps tripping just looking at it.
I have a gas/propane powered generator Cummings 4500.runs both AC and microwave at the same time! I can turn everything off, run 1 ac (15 amp)and as soon as I turn on the TV 2.5 amp max, the gfci trips.
Plug in a coffee maker or a toaster and it trips.
Something is wrong.
So many variables.
We have a Solar charging module that can be blue tooth connected. Victron connect is the app.
The dealership Installed an after market TPMS, tire minder, but it Is connected to the battery directly. The battery switch does not isolate it. So 24-7 draw.
The battery indicator on the panel is worthless IMO, simply shows the power going through. Can be from batteries, solar or generator.
Separate apps can separate and help with the troubleshooting.
Lithium deep cycle batteries( my next purchase) can be blue tooth monitored in the way of output and input.
The SmartSolar MPPT 100/30 automatically adjusts for the different type of battery we use, acid lithium etc. for what I understand and of course can be Bluetooth paired as I mentioned.
Sorry for the rambling. My wife and I are learning so much. I can be very technical and talented. Right now I feel like a dumb ass.

 

[BryanValRox]

OK Further investigation!!
One of the Interstate cheap batteries had no fluid. Cells were exposed. Added some distilled water just to go on util Saturday. Still no charge holding… they are toasted.
Tuesday this puppy goes in for warranty checking. The damn Gfci keeps tripping just looking at it.
I have a gas/propane powered generator Cummings 4500.runs both AC and microwave at the same time! I can turn everything off, run 1 ac (15 amp)and as soon as I turn on the TV 2.5 amp max, the gfci trips.
Plug in a coffee maker or a toaster and it trips.
Something is wrong.
So many variables.
We have a Solar charging module that can be blue tooth connected. Victron connect is the app.
The dealership Installed an after market TPMS, tire minder, but it Is connected to the battery directly. The battery switch does not isolate it. So 24-7 draw.
The battery indicator on the panel is worthless IMO, simply shows the power going through. Can be from batteries, solar or generator.
Separate apps can separate and help with the troubleshooting.
Lithium deep cycle batteries( my next purchase) can be blue tooth monitored in the way of output and input.
The SmartSolar MPPT 100/30 automatically adjusts for the different type of battery we use, acid lithium etc. for what I understand and of course can be Bluetooth paired as I mentioned.
Sorry for the rambling. My wife and I are learning so much. I can be very technical and talented. Right now I feel like a dumb ass.

A word of caution on your solar controller. I believe it auto detects voltage(12/24), not battery type. You need to use the rotary switch on the bottom or your app. to set the battery type charging profile. Additionally, depending on your converter type, you might need to change a setting there as well when you upgrade your batteries.

 

[Flyer32RLS]

A word of caution on your solar controller. I believe it auto detects voltage(12/24), not battery type. You need to use the rotary switch on the bottom or your app. to set the battery type charging profile. Additionally, depending on your converter type, you might need to change a setting there as well when you upgrade your batteries.

I agree with BryanValRox. The solar controller needs to be adjusted to deliver to lithium. On the bottom, a rotary switch set in position #1. #1 is lithium.
The converter is probably a WF-9855AD. AD is for Auto Detect. No eed to do anything.
Happy Glamping!

 

[Oregon_Camper]

I have a gas/propane powered generator Cummings 4500.runs both AC and microwave at the same time! I can turn everything off, run 1 ac (15 amp)and as soon as I turn on the TV 2.5 amp max, the gfci trips.

I'm confused. The AirCon does not operate on the same 15 amp GFCI circuit(s) Our 340RL has 2 GFCI circuits, but other Alliance rigs only have 1/

I fixed my GFCI popping issue, but simply replacing them with a quality one from Lowes.

 

[M and E]

OK Further investigation!!
One of the Interstate cheap batteries had no fluid. Cells were exposed. Added some distilled water just to go on util Saturday. Still no charge holding… they are toasted.
Tuesday this puppy goes in for warranty checking. The damn Gfci keeps tripping just looking at it.
I have a gas/propane powered generator Cummings 4500.runs both AC and microwave at the same time! I can turn everything off, run 1 ac (15 amp)and as soon as I turn on the TV 2.5 amp max, the gfci trips.
Plug in a coffee maker or a toaster and it trips.
Something is wrong.
So many variables.
We have a Solar charging module that can be blue tooth connected. Victron connect is the app.
The dealership Installed an after market TPMS, tire minder, but it Is connected to the battery directly. The battery switch does not isolate it. So 24-7 draw.
The battery indicator on the panel is worthless IMO, simply shows the power going through. Can be from batteries, solar or generator.
Separate apps can separate and help with the troubleshooting.
Lithium deep cycle batteries( my next purchase) can be blue tooth monitored in the way of output and input.
The SmartSolar MPPT 100/30 automatically adjusts for the different type of battery we use, acid lithium etc. for what I understand and of course can be Bluetooth paired as I mentioned.
Sorry for the rambling. My wife and I are learning so much. I can be very technical and talented. Right now I feel like a dumb ass.

Is it only tripping when you are operating on the generator? A GFCI trips because some current leaving on hot is not returning on neutral. The 2.5 amps is nothing, in any case. But that circuit becoming closed could be what is making the system think there is leak. I don't know why, but I know it is accurate, but some RVs will have GFCIs trip because of the generator's unbonded neutral.

edit...you'd need to ask someone else on this one to know why...if you are running a surge protector on a generator that can also fool a GFCI into thinking there is a neutral leak.

 

[Lantley]

Is it only tripping when you are operating on the generator? A GFCI trips because some current leaving on hot is not returning on neutral. The 2.5 amps is nothing, in any case. But that circuit becoming closed could be what is making the system think there is leak. I don't know why, but I know it is accurate, but some RVs will have GFCIs trip because of the generator's unbonded neutral.

edit...you'd need to ask someone else on this one to know why...if you are running a surge protector on a generator that can also fool a GFCI into thinking there is a neutral leak

OK Further investigation!!
One of the Interstate cheap batteries had no fluid. Cells were exposed. Added some distilled water just to go on util Saturday. Still no charge holding… they are toasted.
Tuesday this puppy goes in for warranty checking. The damn Gfci keeps tripping just looking at it.
I have a gas/propane powered generator Cummings 4500.runs both AC and microwave at the same time! I can turn everything off, run 1 ac (15 amp)and as soon as I turn on the TV 2.5 amp max, the gfci trips.
Plug in a coffee maker or a toaster and it trips.
Something is wrong.

Are you using a bonding plug on generator

 

[Maxi1966]

I'm confused. The AirCon does not operate on the same 15 amp GFCI circuit(s) Our 340RL has 2 GFCI circuits, but other Alliance rigs only have 1/

I fixed my GFCI popping issue, but simply replacing them with a quality one from Lowes.

I tried to do the same. I have replaced hundreds of those in my life. At home!! After I replaced this one, and yes I labeled the wires properly, it would not even stay on!!
I reversed to the original one and will go back to Lowe’s.
Of course, we are camping biw connected to a 59 amp shore power. All works perfectly!!!!
Minus the batteries of course.
But lithium is the next step.

 

[BryanValRox]

If the GFI is only tripping on Genset operation, a bonding plug might do the trick.
A link is pasted below.

https://a.co/d/0d1XSzoE

Regarding the replacement plug that wouldn’t stay on. I would bet that the line and load wires were not hooked up correctly.

I say this because I have seen different MFG’s place line and load terminals in different positions on the outlet, so one needs to be careful to honor those terminals as marked on the body and or instructions.

I only offer this as a possibility, I see you noted above that you labeled the wires correctly.