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Remove a flat tire or not

Socal-Paul

Well-known member
Avenue 25ML almost a year old. Noticed I had a flat tire, not always the sharpest person but figured I could handle this. Started to break the lugs loose before blocking the front wheel to remove the rear. It didn't take 30 seconds before reaching for the breaker bar after another 5 minutes I reached for the 2 foot pipe to extend the bar. 5 off 1 to go and I rolled the socket over the lug. Enough for one day, at home I order a lug removal socket from good old Amazon. Today back in the storage yard with my son's 1/2" impact I put the socket on and got the lug to spin, a thought that was short lived as it was just a sleeve spinning. So now I'm scratching my head do I go back tomorrow with a bigger hammer trying to drive the socket further on to the lug or just find somewhere to take it? Any thoughts? For those who have not fooled with your tires strongly suggest you make sure you can get all the lugs loose on all the wheels and for those with rigs on order add it to your delivery check list if we were on the road this would be a real pita. Thanks.
 

BryanValRox

Elite Member
Avenue 25ML almost a year old. Noticed I had a flat tire, not always the sharpest person but figured I could handle this. Started to break the lugs loose before blocking the front wheel to remove the rear. It didn't take 30 seconds before reaching for the breaker bar after another 5 minutes I reached for the 2 foot pipe to extend the bar. 5 off 1 to go and I rolled the socket over the lug. Enough for one day, at home I order a lug removal socket from good old Amazon. Today back in the storage yard with my son's 1/2" impact I put the socket on and got the lug to spin, a thought that was short lived as it was just a sleeve spinning. So now I'm scratching my head do I go back tomorrow with a bigger hammer trying to drive the socket further on to the lug or just find somewhere to take it? Any thoughts? For those who have not fooled with your tires strongly suggest you make sure you can get all the lugs loose on all the wheels and for those with rigs on order add it to your delivery check list if we were on the road this would be a real pita. Thanks.
Any chance you can use a hammer and chisel to remove the spinning sleeve? And then see if you can get a socket that will fit the lug better.

I had the same issue with the lugs on my F150. Finally changed them out to a solid style without any sleeve, no issues since.
 

7426TRISS

Well-known member
Your going to need to remove that nut, chisel, whatever, then after the tire is off address the stud. It is a major pain in the butt to do. Keep use posted
 

Socal-Paul

Well-known member
Triss we can't go anywhere until the wheel is off and the tire fixed so it is going to be done. At the same time all 24 need to be removed and replaced with solid style as I'm not going anywhere until I can change a tire. Bryan what did you find under the sleeve? I'm wondering if I drill the very end can the sleeve be peeled back can I get an extraction socket on the end? Not a whole lot of room to work. Come to think of it I have one of the lugs here at the house may do a little surgery on it tomorrow. Would love to remove the lug without damaging the stud. Flyer I didn't use heat as I was concerned I would damage the aluminum rim, that may become a moot point soon. Also considering just taking it somewhere as I'm sure the same is possible on the other three rims. Thanks for the responses.
 

KCAlis

Active member
In my experience the lug, under the spinning cladding, is the next size smaller hex.

If they are spinning easily with an impact wrench you might be able to “walk” the cladding off the underlying lug.
 

BryanValRox

Elite Member
Triss we can't go anywhere until the wheel is off and the tire fixed so it is going to be done. At the same time all 24 need to be removed and replaced with solid style as I'm not going anywhere until I can change a tire. Bryan what did you find under the sleeve? I'm wondering if I drill the very end can the sleeve be peeled back can I get an extraction socket on the end? Not a whole lot of room to work. Come to think of it I have one of the lugs here at the house may do a little surgery on it tomorrow. Would love to remove the lug without damaging the stud. Flyer I didn't use heat as I was concerned I would damage the aluminum rim, that may become a moot point soon. Also considering just taking it somewhere as I'm sure the same is possible on the other three rims. Thanks for the responses.
My experience is that the cover is usually thin.
I don’t recall if the lug is opened on the end under the cover or not. If it is, your drilling ideal might help get you a entry path to get under it with a chisel and tear it back. Another thought would be to cut a slice in it with a Dermal Tool .

Once the cover is off, it should be just finding a matching socket to fit the lug.

Also , sometimes one type of socket will work better then another. 6 point vs 12 point for example.

Also, as a preventative measure, I brush on some Never-Sieze Coumpound on the wheel studs prior to installing the lugs. It helps against seizing and gulling.

I just used the compound on my jack bolts as well when I reinstalled the bolts and torqued.

I have used the compound for many years both personally and professionally.
 

Socal-Paul

Well-known member
The part that's spinning is I think made out of stainless steel and it is just a thin sleeve. I did drill the end to get a place to start tried a hacksaw blade which just slid all over and a file did about the same. The Dremel with a thin grinding wheel did the trick. I believe I will be able to weaken the sleeve enough with several cuts to get it off, and also think this can be accomplished without damage to the stud. The really good news is under the sleeve is a 18mm solid steel lug. I will be limited by doctors orders for a couple of weeks so will spending the time hitting all the lugs with pb blaster.
 

BryanValRox

Elite Member
The part that's spinning is I think made out of stainless steel and it is just a thin sleeve. I did drill the end to get a place to start tried a hacksaw blade which just slid all over and a file did about the same. The Dremel with a thin grinding wheel did the trick. I believe I will be able to weaken the sleeve enough with several cuts to get it off, and also think this can be accomplished without damage to the stud. The really good news is under the sleeve is a 18mm solid steel lug. I will be limited by doctors orders for a couple of weeks so will spending the time hitting all the lugs with pb blaster.
Paul,
Congratulations, sounds like you are making some progress.
Not trying to rain on your parade, but I am not sure that PB Blaster will provide any benefit. Only from the standpoint of if the lug nuts are still intact, the only path for the oil to enter the threaded joint would be from the rear and work it’s way front. Just not sure how effectively it would be able to get all the way back to the end of the lug and start back front.
Now, if the cover removal provided access to the threads, it would certainly have a path into the threads.
But hey, it won’t hurt to try.
Best of luck with you health concerns!
 

Socal-Paul

Well-known member
Update, used the dremel to cut a X on the end of the false lug the pulled the flaps up then drove a screwdriver between the false and real lug. I have an old ice pick (solid steel) that I drove into the space that the screwdriver made that caused the false lug to split. It basically fell off. Used a 18mm socket with a breaker bar and 24" cheater, the lug is off. Took 15 minutes.
 

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BryanValRox

Elite Member
Update, used the dremel to cut a X on the end of the false lug the pulled the flaps up then drove a screwdriver between the false and real lug. I have an old ice pick (solid steel) that I drove into the space that the screwdriver made that caused the false lug to split. It basically fell off. Used a 18mm socket with a breaker bar and 24" cheater, the lug is off. Took 15 minutes.
Paul, glad everything worked out and it was only a 15 minute fight!
 
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