Furrion fridge failure, 2025 310RL

[KCAlis]

I’m trying to understand why our fridge (Furrion Model FCR20DCAFA) quit cooling, the interior fridge light went out and the freezer cooling point jumped 20+ degrees. Yet the freezer lights come on, the door panel controls light up and, as I mentioned, the freezer is still being cooled but to a higher temp.

I was able to regain the interior light and it began to cool after performing a hard reset. Unfortunately the temperatures were erratic and the fridge reverted to the failed state within a day. We have had NO power blinks or failures.

Has anyone had this happen? If so, what was the fix? We’re still under warranty, thank God!

2025 310RL

 

[KCAlis]

I’m trying to understand why our fridge (Furrion Model FCR20DCAFA) quit cooling, the interior fridge light went out and the freezer cooling point jumped 20+ degrees. Yet the freezer lights come on, the door panel controls light up and, as I mentioned, the freezer is still being cooled but to a higher temp.

I was able to regain the interior light and it began to cool after performing a hard reset. Unfortunately the temperatures were erratic and the fridge reverted to the failed state within a day. We have had NO power blinks or failures.

Has anyone had this happen? If so, what was the fix? We’re still under warranty, thank God!

2025 310RL

Follow up: My mistake, no interior lights in either fridge or freezer. Seals on both fridge doors and freezer doors are warm to the touch. Freezer has been maintaining ~16F while fridge is in upper 60s with ambient of 75F. The door controls indicate normal operation with no “— —“ symbol on the fridge control.

No access panel on the bottom front of the unit so unable to determine if there are fuses below or behind the fridge.

Disconnecting heavier gauge (8?) red wire connected to 60 amp self-resetting breaker at positive battery terminal did not kill the display on the fridge door so assuming not the fridge feed. This is the only branch I see before the 12v main disconnect.

Where’s it getting its power from?

 

[KCAlis]

Seems that I’m talking to myself!

I can now say with certainty that our fridge is fed from the bottom breaker on the 12v buss behind the hydraulics reservoir in the top front compartment. The feed is a red 8 AWG stranded wire.

We found the feed termination short 9 strands out of 17 due to poor stripping practice as well as a crimp that resulted in the connector being just a parking place for the wire. The wire pulled loose when the tech moved it while looking for its gauge marking.

We also found 2 bulged, leaking capacitors on the fridge’s control board with electrolyte sprayed on the underside of the circuit board cabinet lid.

The fridge still doesn’t work and the freezer works for shorter and shorter periods.

I’m waiting on Alliance’s and Lippert’s solution on this obvious warranty problem.

 

[thesiniffs]

Seems that I’m talking to myself!

I can now say with certainty that our fridge is fed from the bottom breaker on the 12v buss behind the hydraulics reservoir in the top front compartment. The feed is a red 8 AWG stranded wire.

We found the feed termination short 9 strands out of 17 due to poor stripping practice as well as a crimp that resulted in the connector being just a parking place for the wire. The wire pulled loose when the tech moved it while looking for its gauge marking.

We also found 2 bulged, leaking capacitors on the fridge’s control board with electrolyte sprayed on the underside of the circuit board cabinet lid.

The fridge still doesn’t work and the freezer works for shorter and shorter periods.

I’m waiting on Alliance’s and Lippert’s solution on this obvious warranty problem.

Our Furrion 12V just went out on our 2025 Delta that we've had for four weeks and used once. Can't locate the fuses but having it looked at in two weeks. So frustrating.

 

[ktdtx]

I have a 2024 (purchased 12/2024) and is currently in the shop, again, for refrigerator repair.

 

[SKYSKIOC]

2024 Avenue with a Furrion 16Cf d side by side is not cooling. purchased in September of 24 and my wife heard something pop and the lights flickered and then we smelled some wires burning. fridge has been working on and off cooling and freezing then not cooling and freezing. pulled the panel in the freezer and this is what we found. coils frozen up not allowing cooling air to circulate the freezer and refer. i think the defrost is burned out. see pictures. this is suppose to be frost free but obviously it's not working correctly. anytime else have this problem?

 

[Flyer32RLS]

Follow up: My mistake, no interior lights in either fridge or freezer. Seals on both fridge doors and freezer doors are warm to the touch. Freezer has been maintaining ~16F while fridge is in upper 60s with ambient of 75F. The door controls indicate normal operation with no “— —“ symbol on the fridge control.

No access panel on the bottom front of the unit so unable to determine if there are fuses below or behind the fridge.

Disconnecting heavier gauge (8?) red wire connected to 60 amp self-resetting breaker at positive battery terminal did not kill the display on the fridge door so assuming not the fridge feed. This is the only branch I see before the 12v main disconnect.

Where’s it getting its power from?

Not meaning to insult you but when ours has the ---- on the door for freezer and fridge, it means that it is turned off. You have tried to reset temperature right? There should be a fuse for the fridge. Try pulling it for 5 minutes and hard reset it.

 

[KCAlis]

Not meaning to insult you but when ours has the ---- on the door for freezer and fridge, it means that it is turned off. You have tried to reset temperature right? There should be a fuse for the fridge. Try pulling it for 5 minutes and hard reset it.

Yes, I learned how to reset the fridge after taking the trailer in for warranty work and having it returned with the fridge off.

The rest of the story: Furrion sent out a replacement board with larger heat sinks on the three diodes/transistors?? Not an electrical engineer. The mobile tech had already found the feed wire badly stripped and crimped and repaired by doing a great job stripping and crimping. The fridge has been working fine since.

I have recording sensors in both compartments. I’m confused why the freezer goes through a 10 degree drop every 20 hours or so. Anyone know?

 

[mboudoin]

Was the control board on the top side of the fridge? There appears to be two 40 amp DC fuses there that sometimes need to be checked. Glad to see you got it fixed. Lippert shows currently out of stock so any supplies must be going to repairs.

 

[KCAlis]

Was the control board on the top side of the fridge? There appears to be two 40 amp DC fuses there that sometimes need to be checked. Glad to see you got it fixed. Lippert shows currently out of stock so any supplies must be going to repairs.

Yes, under a cover on the top, rear right corner of the 20 cu ft.

Both 40A fuses tested good. What appears to have failed are the two large capacitors beside the fuses. They bulged and sprayed electrolyte onto the bottom side of the cover. You can see the bulges in their tops in the photo.

 

[mboudoin]

I am hearing this could be due to heat buildup since the cover is not vented. Interesting to say the least. I may look placing a vent or fan to cool the internals.

 

[KCAlis]

I am hearing this could be due to heat buildup since the cover is not vented. Interesting to say the least. I may look placing a vent or fan to cool the internals.

I drilled a half dozen 1/2” holes in the cover above the heat sinks on the new board. The boards actually have small pancake fans to provide a little cross ventilation.

 

[mboudoin]

That definingly looks like they know it's a heat issue. Modification upcoming on that panel cover. Thinking either uncovering all together or using plastic mesh of some sort to allow for good ventilation.