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Thermostat Dying?

Travel time

Active member
Millerx5 you should read my posts on the major flaws of the ML23! It finally got so cold in the RV that I had to stay in a hotel. The main reason we bought the RV was so we didn't have to stay in a hotel while on the job site. The RV is back in storage for the next few weeks but mid April it warms up and I can look at trying to fix it again! We are in the same boat. Owned for 1 month, used 8 days and now deeply regretting purchase!!!!!!
 

Oregon_Camper

Forum Admin
Staff member
......We have been promised help at the Alliance Rally in Texas in May, but I don't have a good.feeling about this.
The folks at the Texas Rally will FOR SURE solve your problem. There are a bunch of VERY VERY qualified folks at that rally. Steve Jankevicius and Mark Page will most likely be the primary guys helping...they are amazing!!

There is also a dedicated Facebook group for the Texas Rally. I think they have 125 RV's for this rally and there is a growing waitlist to attend.
 
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dwcfish

Well-known member
I assume we are talking about an Avenue All Access 23ML? I can tell you from having an Avenue 32RLS that the heat ducting is inadequate. It looked like the only main living area vent in the 23ML was in the back in the kitchen area? I know for our rig the ducting that was installed did not meet the specs of the Suburban furnace, see their manuals. We added another duct from the furnace with a vent coming out of the coffee bar. This greatly improved the heat distribution in the rig.
 

Millerx5

Member
We live full time, so giving up storage for a DIY fix on a brand new trailer is a hard sell. Also, did you modify the cabinet door?
 

Travel time

Active member
For the 23ml the only place that heat duct could be added is under the stairs. There is a vent there already and it would be easy to convert to a heat duct. I hate to start modifying a one month old RV but under the circumstances I'd rather be warmer than cold.
 

dwcfish

Well-known member
I actually added mine at the end of the coffee bar. Took less than an hour and cost about $35 in material. The air volume that comes out of there is unbelievably.

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dwcfish

Well-known member
Yes, I pulled the electrical box out for the installation of the duct, there is plenty of space back there
 

dwcfish

Well-known member
I would also note that if yours is like mine, pull the drawer out above the electrical panel and you can see down in there
 

Travel time

Active member
My first upcoming fix is to move the thermostat from the bedroom to the control panel near the entry. Alliance won't admit that putting it in the bedroom was a mistake.
 

Millerx5

Member
That looks like the fix! Does.it keep the furnace from overheating and shutting down? I wonder if Alliance will retrofit during our warranty repair in May. Right now they have authorized 2 hours for a tech to investigate. If there is "not a problem" then the tech is on our dime.
 

dwcfish

Well-known member
I have not had an issue with the furnace overheating. I will note again that you should check the manual for your Suburban furnace. I'm my case the rig had 3 ducts originally on the furnace. This did not meet the requirements outlined in the manual. Suburban does not count the duct that runs to the underbelly area since there is no return air related to that duct.
 

ElkCreek

Member
I’ll follow up with where we ended up, as our issue progressed to furnace starting and stopping, over and over, before either settling out and running or going into a hard stop, sorry for your luck.

Turned out to be a loose connector on the power wire to the ignitor, which I’ll blame for start/stop.

The bigger issue that persisted after that was identified and fixed was two fold.

First, loose blade connector junction (don’t know the right name, two wires join on male blades with a third female blade connector) for the blue/white stripe thermostat wire to power wire to circuit board. So, thermostat was not always telling things on the board that it was time to kick on and run. Or, it would try but power didn’t want to play.

Second, the master connector to the board itself had loosened over time. When the furnace fan ran and vibrated, this would intermittently lose connection and the furnace would hard stop, no restart.

I’d go poke around and occasionally that would result in connections being restored and the furnace running properly. Sometimes it would not.

Finally called Redline Mobile RV Repair in west/central KY, and a couple hours later they had found and fixed the loose connections. We’ve been golden ever since.

Moral of my story, the electrical connections in the furnace do not like vibration, they’re not the quality hardware I would have hoped for.
 
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