Dimmer switches

[MGreene]

For the 262RB, does anyone know if the light switches for the theater seats, the dining table, and the bedroom can be changed out for dimmers similar to the one used for the main overhead lights?

 

[Oregon_Camper]

They all look like the same light fixture that is on the main switch (with dimmer). I see no reason you couldn't add a dimmer.

 

[MGreene]

That's what I thought too. Pulled both switches from the walls, dimmer has 3 wires, the other only has 2, so maybe not. I'll follow up with the dealer. Thanks

 

[JeffS]

For the dimmer, you'll need to find a ground to add to it.

 

[Whitewolf]

On our 340RL I added dimmers to the locations you're talking about. Also the bathroom and hallway. I had to install them sideways in the dining/theater seating area due to the windows and metal slide frame.

 

[BryanValRox]

For the 262RB, does anyone know if the light switches for the theater seats, the dining table, and the bedroom can be changed out for dimmers similar to the one used for the main overhead lights?

Hi folks, I posted this last year sometime.
My wife and I felt that the lighting in our 310 RL Dinning and Recliner Slide area was just way to intense for our liking.
This weekend I added dimmer switches to each of the circuits. This is a very easy modification and only took about 15 minutes for each switch. You just remove the original switch, enlarge the cutout slight and follow the wiring instructions on the new switch.
This make all the difference in the world and softens the intensity at will from very soft to fully original brightness. I highly recommend it to make this area more comfortable.
I have posted the American Technology Link below which is the same manufacturer as the original switches used by the factory.
Yes, you can find them cheaper from a China Based Manufacturer, personally I just like to use original components.
The link is pasted below.

Amazon.com

The watch out is checking the space behind the walls between the studs to ensure you have the depth and width to install the larger switches. We wanted the larger slider like the entry switch, but had to settle for the smaller one due to the width between the studs. They work great and soften the lighting in that area.
In our case a 310 RL, power and ground were present for the very easy modification to take place.
My guess is that it is present in yours as well, Likely two wires on the switch and a ground running parallel to it BUT check it out to be sure before doing any electrical modification so you don’t cause any issue.

 

[Midnight Rider]

Hi folks, I posted this last year sometime.
My wife and I felt that the lighting in our 310 RL Dinning and Recliner Slide area was just way to intense for our liking.
This weekend I added dimmer switches to each of the circuits. This is a very easy modification and only took about 15 minutes for each switch. You just remove the original switch, enlarge the cutout slight and follow the wiring instructions on the new switch.
This make all the difference in the world and softens the intensity at will from very soft to fully original brightness. I highly recommend it to make this area more comfortable.
I have posted the American Technology Link below which is the same manufacturer as the original switches used by the factory.
Yes, you can find them cheaper from a China Based Manufacturer, personally I just like to use original components.
The link is pasted below.

Amazon.com

The watch out is checking the space behind the walls between the studs to ensure you have the depth and width to install the larger switches. We wanted the larger slider like the entry switch, but had to settle for the smaller one due to the width between the studs. They work great and soften the lighting in that area.
In our case a 310 RL, power and ground were present for the very easy modification to take place.
My guess is that it is present in yours as well, Likely two wires on the switch and a ground running parallel to it BUT check it out to be sure before doing any electrical modification so you don’t cause any issue.

Bry,
when you say ground is running parallel, what do you mean by that? -
Thanks
Rider

 

[BryanValRox]

Bry,
when you say ground is running parallel, what do you mean by that? -
Thanks
Rider

Rider, in this case the context of “parallel” was meant to be running along side of the 12v wire going to the dimmer switch.
Someone made mention that they wanted to add dimmers but were dealing with 3 wire switches and 2 wires on the existing switch.
I wanted to make the point that the necessary ground might already be there and because it presently wasn’t attached directly to the switch they were not confident making the modification.
Remember a 12vDC circuit takes a power and ground connection to work properly.
In our case when we installed dimmers the ground wire was not connect to the original switch(as expected).
The wires involved on the switch were just in bound power(supply) and outbound (load)(as expected) the ground wire was running parallel to those wires and connected at the actual light fixture.

So to install the dimmer, all that was needed was to match inbound to inbound and outbound to outbound. Then cut the ground wire running parallel to the switch and use a cap slice to crimp those three wires back together.

Anyone performing electrical modification’s should validate what they have with a meter to ensure that they do no harm.

 

[George]

In one location I needed a switch that was no wider than the original. https://a.co/d/g3ub1SL