LQAlliance
Member
2024 F-250 break setting set to heavy. Gain set to 10. Only a faint feel when I pinch the brake controller. 2024 Paradigm 310RL. Any Ideas?
Trailer brakes faint
- Thread starter LQAlliance
- Start date
Have you pulled an RV with this truck before? I ask, as our prior F-250 did not come with the required fuse to send power to the 7-pin plug....even though it had integrated brake contoller.
If you do have that part working, I'd have someone increase the level from say 2 up to 10 and I would be using a volt meter to test the voltage increase coming off the brake connection on 7-pin
If you do have that part working, I'd have someone increase the level from say 2 up to 10 and I would be using a volt meter to test the voltage increase coming off the brake connection on 7-pin
BryanValRox
Well-known member
In addition to what Jim suggested,
You could get a 7 pin tester and validate your signal or use a VOM like Jim suggested.
Could you share what type of brakes you have on the trailer? Magnetic or Disk?
Do you have various settings within your dash board the can be programmed for different types of brakes?
Is this your first tow on this unit, have the brakes been burnished? Have the adjustments been checked.
My money is on the fuse and or relay for the circuit.
LQAlliance
Member
It is the second time I have pulled it, it seemed OK. The response is there but faint. Does have a setting on the dash, low med high. Seems all the same faint response. Am I right in thinking that if it was the no fuse issue I wouldn’t have any response at all? Magnetic brakes.
LQAlliance
Member
Where would I find this fuse.
BryanValRox
Well-known member
Your owners manual for the truck should have a listing of the fuses and their locations.
The fact that you are not experiencing any difference from low medium or high is telling you something.
With magnetic brakes, your dash set up should be set to electric brakes, not hydraulic or electric over hydraulic ( not sure of the ford choices in your dash).
When troubleshooting, it is always better to break things down into smaller pieces and follow a logical path and test and record your results. Don’t assume something is working, validate it’s function.
For example I would suggest something like this
1. Validate you have or don’t have voltage on your truck 7 pin brake pin
2. If you don’t concentrate on the truck electrical circuits related to the Brake Controller
3. If you do have voltage, validate your dash settings are correct for your trailer
4. If settings are correct and voltage is present at the 7 pin brake pin, start the trailer inspections.
You indicated that your set to heavy and a gain of 10, so you should have @ full battery voltage present on the 7 pin brake pin when the slider is moved to the full brake position.
Obviously, something isn’t right if you can’t feel anything or get the tires to Skid/almost Skid
BryanValRox
Well-known member
I will assume you have gone thru this process on your dash.
And used 15,000 as the GVWR?
Midnight Rider
Well-known member
I found my breaks were coming on and off going down the road due to a bad 7 pin connection? Scary when headed to a red light and you have no breaks? Pucker Factor Level 10!
Make sure prongs are not bent on 7 pin And they seat properly.
also spray both male/female with WD40 before hook up.
May not Be your issue but a good practice just the same.
Make sure prongs are not bent on 7 pin And they seat properly.
also spray both male/female with WD40 before hook up.
May not Be your issue but a good practice just the same.
I just went through the same thing with my f350. Turns out it was the new 340rl. The brake reservoir was behind the batteries. To access it you have to take off the panel that has 3 bolts. My reservoir was low and a lot of air in the system. I bled the brakes and no more delay
Great solution, but note this is only applicable for units with disc brakes.
I am having the same problem. I have a 2022 F250, the trailer stopped well initially after setting to the high brake controller setting. But, on a 4 month trip. The brakes started out well, they actually locked up on a downgrade off-ramp at the beginning of the trip. But a few days later I noticed the brakes were very light. It is not a fuse, they work on tug tests and will provide some braking with the manual brake control lever, but performed weakly on a couple of panic stops. I am taking the rig in for warranty work and will ask them to take a look.
BryanValRox
Well-known member
Do you have drum brakes?
If so, have you checked the adjustments? Sometime’s the auto adjustment feature needs some help.
Yes, they are drums. I have not looked at them yet. I will take a look if the dealer cannot do it under warranty.
Thanks for the info though, I did take a look at the adjustment procedure, and it looks like I may be able to check the adjustment without taking the wheels off.
Thanks for the info though, I did take a look at the adjustment procedure, and it looks like I may be able to check the adjustment without taking the wheels off.
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BryanValRox
Well-known member
Your correct, there is no need to remove the wheel or drum to adjust the brakes. There would however be some benefit of removing the wheel and drum to perform visual inspections , but as you can imagine that turns into a much bigger and more technical project.
5th Wheel Newbie
New member
I suspect this original post has been solved by now, but want to offer one additional suggestion for folks who might read this looking for answers. We have a 30RLS and, after 2 years, encountered fading drum brake issues. We had decent braking up until that point, so I was assuming the brakes just needed servicing. After a "pucker stop" similar to the one mentioned above, we decided to switch to Hydraulic/Disc brakes rather than service the OEM drums. We had them installed at a dealer. When we went to pick up our rig, we had the same braking problem. They bled the lines several times, and were stumped as to why the brakes would not provide adequate pressure. I took to the Internet and found that the problem might be with our tow vehicle (RAM 2500). Apparently, the OEM brake controller does not provide adequate voltage at slower speeds (like when you are rolling up to an intersection). The new brakes required a lot more voltage, so we installed a Prodigy P3 after market controller. The difference is huge. Plenty of stopping capability. Was a plug and play installation (did it myself in 15 minutes...) Might only be an issue with RAM trucks and Hydrastar disc brake combination, but I offer it in case anyone stumbles across the same problem. Inexpensive fix, but you won't hear about it from the RV Dealers or RAM Dealers. Both were consulted and none had ever heard about the controller issues, despite several internet posts that documented their exhaustive discussions with RAM factory technicians (and the NHTSA.) RAM blamed it on the controller device software, that they did not design. Love our RAM, but this was not their finest moment. Stopping a rolling 13,000 pound box is kind of important.
This is a follow up to my previous posts. I pulled the rig out of storage and repacked the bearings for an upcoming trip. I quickly discovered the cause of the brake fade I was experiencing. The shoes, magnets and drums were all covered in grease. I spent more time cleaning this off than working on the bearings. I read the Dexter manual before doing the job. It states to not fill the voids more than 50% full. Their plant needs to read the manual, it was packed full. I was glad I did the job myself. I know the tools and part numbers needed to fix things that may happen on the road.
BryanValRox
Well-known member
I will assume that you replaced the wheel seals during you repacking project.
The fill level really depends on the axle type, if you happen to have the EZ Lube option, your voids will actually be full. This is a result of the grease entering through the spindle, exiting into the back rear void space, thru the inner bearing, thru the spindle void space and then forcing its way through the outer bearing.
Glad, you found a assignable root cause for your weak braking.
Fishfnatic
Well-known member
I had our bearings done at Texas rally this year and 3 of the four drums had grease all over inside drum.