Tug Test and Hydraulic Jacks

[Meanjean73]

Most people say to leave the front jack’s just off the ground and complete the test. The hydraulic jacks seem to raise one at a time. Am I missing something to just slight raise both off the ground?

What’s your method? Jacks stay down? Leave just one close to the ground? No tug test?

 

[2 Allies]

Retrack the jacks, the left front all the way up until the right front starts up about 2" then switch back to extend, extend the left front back to within 2" of the ground and you are ready for your tug test. When you switch back to extend, the left front will start down while the right front stays where it is.
Good luck,

 

[George]

The reason they move one at a time is that one is a teensy bit stickier than the other. They're not synchronized nor pumped separately. If you retract until one of them 1/2" off the ground the other will not be carrying any weight. Prove it to yourself by observing this one at the beginning of retraction. It will retract some until all the weight is off then stop until the other side is up all the way.
When one is ½" off the ground do your pull test.
FWIW - I leave the wheels securely chocked and do my pull test without retracting any landing gear. You bang into them while hitching so they can withstand a bang in the other direction too. Don't get carried away — just cycle between drive and reverse at idle without the brakes applied.

 

[Flyer32RLS]

Don't have that problem with my Anderson Ultimate Hitch 3.0. Its on the ball, its good.

 

[Lantley]

I have a Hensley BD3 hitch with a Holland Binkley head. You can physically see the hitch is latched and secured. No tug test required.
Having to do a tug test each and every time would be a deal breaker for me.

 

[Meanjean73]

Don't have that problem with my Anderson Ultimate Hitch 3.0. Its on the ball, its good.

I have a short bed so I wanted a slider option. To get into my shop I need to make a tight U-turn. If not I would definitely be interested in the Anderson.

 

[Meanjean73]

I have a Hensley BD3 hitch with a Holland Binkley head. You can physically see the hitch is latched and secured. No tug test required.
Having to do a tug test each and every time would be a deal breaker for me.

Not sure what type of hitch that is? I’ll have to look it up. I can see the jaws on the BandW and I probably don’t need to do the tug test. My comfort level with a 5th wheel isn’t there yet, first time owning one. The test just puts me as ease.

 

[2 Allies]

I had a Pullrite #2900 Superglide autoslide on our Chevy 3500 SRW shortbed and it worked flawlessly. Recently moved to a F-450 long bed and using the Gen-Y now. Still have the autoslide hitch if anyone is looking for one you can DM me.

 

[Lantley]

Not sure what type of hitch that is? I’ll have to look it up. I can see the jaws on the BandW and I probably don’t need to do the tug test. My comfort level with a 5th wheel isn’t there yet, first time owning one. The test just puts me as ease.

When I first started I was concerned that I would not hook up properly and used a bedsaver. I used the bedsaver for a season or so before I became experienced and confident enough to understand I did not need it. The bedsaver was sort of like training wheels but it served its purpose. You may want to consider a Bedsaver
Bedsaver