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Suburban water heater issues

I have a Suburban 12 gal water heater. When I flip the gas switch on, it lights up and I get the normal 130 deg at the tap. In order to turn on the electric, I have to play with the switch to get it to light up, and then I only get 100 deg at the tap. Any ideas what the problem might be? Thanks
 

Oregon_Camper

Forum Admin
Staff member
guessing you have a failing sail switch. About $15 to get a new one and about 5 mins to swap it out. Just make sure you get the correct one. There is one for propane and one for electric.
 

dwcfish

Well-known member
Did you mean to say thermostat? There are two of those, one for propane and one for electric. And they are inexpensive and easy to replace. I think there is only one sail switch. I ordered my replacements from dyers online.com
 

BryanValRox

Well-known member
I have a Suburban 12 gal water heater. When I flip the gas switch on, it lights up and I get the normal 130 deg at the tap. In order to turn on the electric, I have to play with the switch to get it to light up, and then I only get 100 deg at the tap. Any ideas what the problem might be? Thanks
Hello folks, while the furnace has a sail switch, I do not recall the water heater using a sail switch .(not 100%sure)
Please head to the website below for a manual that may help you get to the bottom of your issue.
In my humble option, it is sounding like a loose connection or thermostat issue.
I tried to attach a manual for you to check out page 23 for a troubleshooting flow chart, got a file to large message.
So try going to this website to locate the manual.

www.myrvworks.com/manuals

Be careful, you will be working with electricity and or propane during your investigation.
 

Oregon_Camper

Forum Admin
Staff member
Hello folks, while the furnace has a sail switch, I do not recall the water heater using a sail switch .(not 100%sure)
The water has two sail switches behind the black rubber piece. The rubber part is there to allow you to push the switch to reset it.
 

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dwcfish

Well-known member
Um......Sorry but I believe the thermostats are behind there. One for the gas and one for the electric. There is no fan on a water heater so I am not sure how a sail switch would be applicable....
 

Oregon_Camper

Forum Admin
Staff member
Yep ...not sure why I was set on calling that a sail switch ...most definitely a thermostat switch. Off to get more coffee....
 
Thanks for all the replies. I went ahead and bought a new 120 volt thermostat to replace the old one. Now I’m glad I did. I think I found the problem when I took the plastic cover off the thermostats. 05054F6B-8821-4A42-9538-A236C7BB6767.jpeg
 

BryanValRox

Well-known member
That certainly needs addressed, I always say, Find Something, Fix Something and Retest!!!!!!
You might also check the actual heater element, to ensure ohms and amp draw are within specifications.
Overheated connection can be the result of loose connections and High amp draws.
 

7426TRISS

Well-known member
Based on that picture, I would say a loose connection. Replace those. Cramp the new one good, connection and pull test after the connection.
 

Likin' Bikin'

Active member
I had the exact same look to my t-stat when the elec side of my suburban 12 gal quit. I think they need to cut that sharp edge back, or have something to protect that wire. I think the road time allows things to bounce around and cut insulation.
 
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