SOLVED: Why 2 Battery Disconnects?
- Thread starter Geo
- Start date
Need more info. That does not look like a factory install. Is this a used RV? Can you see where the wires go? What are they attached to?
Geo
Active member
Thank you both for replying.
As far as I know this is a bone stock '24 Paradigm 310RL with a 12v "residential" fridge and no inverter.
Turning off the red one kills everything. Turning off the black one nothing dies that I can tell (fridge stays on).
The 5W is under cover so no solar input but on the solar controller the white light next to the battery icon is on whether the black switch is on or off.
I'm leaning towards Darrell's thought that it could disconnect the voltage from the solar panels.
I have submitted the question directly to Alliance and will update if I get an answer.
BryanValRox
Well-known member
We have a 2024 RL310 as well and it is in fact equipped with 2 disconnects from the factory. One is for the 12 v side and the other is in fact a solar disconnect.
I can't be sure without a wring diagram, but my sense is it acts as a Panel disconnect (ie preventing panel energy from flowing to the solar controller.
Our knobs are removeable as a tamper resistance or safety/anti theft feature. That might be the "Actuator Out Position" you refer to above.
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That seems like a low cost effort to control power from solar panel to the MPPT controller. You would be MUCH better off putting in a solar breaker box. Allows you to still turn off power to MPPT controller, but also has a breaker in case of over voltage.
Why would Alliance add the cost to all of their units for the very few who would ever need to worry about voltage? We often forget that most folks just buy the RV and use it without spending thousands more on it with all of our fancy gadgetry. Plus, it is really easy for you to change yourself after the fact if you prefer a breaker.
Because they offer a "Super Solar Plus" upgrade with 3x 320w panels, which when wired in series can product 99 Vmpp and 120.9 Voc...with maximum of 960watts.
Do they deliver it wired in series? There is still not going to be a lot of current moving through that. The options list doesn't indicate which equipment is specifically included, but I would be surprised if they step down from 48v. No matter how you slice voltage and current, it is still only 960w of power. I am not sure what the breaker will buy you from a disconnection standpoint over a switch. And the controller itself should have over-voltage protection. I could definitely be missing something, but does OP have this upgrade in place? I am sure there are way more units delivered without this option than with this option based on checking inventories.
Geo
Active member
The OP only has the standard 320W panel.
BTW - It is wired to a 20 Amp Renogy charge controller rated for 260W. Alliance says Renogy approved this pairing.
I had an issue with my solar plus package, because I park my RV in a dark warehouse. There was just enough light to constantly wake up my panels, which then drained my batteries eventually. I installed a Breaker and I would recommend doing it. According to the National Electrical Code (NEC), all solar system require one. We speaking to Alliance at the time, they said that the RV industry had not adopted that part of the NEC. I didn't think you could pick and choose, but whatever. I was concerned with the possibility of "Hot skin", since trailers are not truly grounded. Then they had a recall on the roof where they wire nutted the connections and cited the possibility of "hot skin", so it feels like they were avoiding the issue to prevent a recall on solar plus packages.
My inverter did fail prematurely (7 months) and I think it was due to the original issue. Had I not installed the breaker, I would have had to crawl up on the roof and disconnect, or pull the wires on and off from the charger while on the phone to Alliance. It saved me a lot of work, as I diagnosed and proved to Alliance it was a warranty issue. Now I just throw the breaker when storing the unit and have not had a problem since.
My inverter did fail prematurely (7 months) and I think it was due to the original issue. Had I not installed the breaker, I would have had to crawl up on the roof and disconnect, or pull the wires on and off from the charger while on the phone to Alliance. It saved me a lot of work, as I diagnosed and proved to Alliance it was a warranty issue. Now I just throw the breaker when storing the unit and have not had a problem since.
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Mike in North Wales
Well-known member
Where did you mount that? At the controller? In a box on the roof?
At the charge controller on the panel side. I just cut into the lines, put on new ends and tied back into the controller. Now I don't have to climb on the roof or remove the stranded connection at the controller. It totally isolates the solar panel system, so when chasing an electrical issue, it can be eliminated easier. Attached is a drawing I made when talking to Alliance about my issue.
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Mike in North Wales
Well-known member
Thanks for the reply. I'm considering adding a switch or breaker, but I wasn't sure if I should put it there, or on the roof so it protects the cables as well.
There is another connection point on my 370FB that can be accessed via a light can above the sink area. So technically, a person could hang a box "inside" the trailer without mounting another box and cutting the roof. Good luck getting that through the interior decorating dept!
