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SOLVED: Water leak - Maiden voyage - Delta 294RK

At 600 miles away from our home (Placerville,CA) we made it to St.Helens, OR. As an Elk member many, not all Elks Lodges have accommodations for RVers like ourselves.

The first morning I notice water dripping from underneath our new trailer. I then located where the water was coming from...the fresh water line to the toilet.

So, made some calls and apparently a "technician" will be here tomorrow to solve this problem. I hope. Our unit is under warranty. I will update this issue tomorrow and it's an easy fix. Crossing my fingers.

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Bozo

Well-known member
Have you tried tightening fitting yourself? A wise investment is a few per fittings, cinch pliers and rings, length of pex line. Don’t be afraid to tackle the small things yourself.
 
This is a warranty issue.
I will not cut the under lament to access connections to the toilet water intake.
Apparently the leak is between the floor and under lament.
 
Update #1
Got a call back from "RV Complete". A mobile technician will cost me $200+ just for a technician to knock on my door then more per hour plus parts if needed. That's BS to me after dishing the money to buy this trailer. The nearest "Blue Compass" is over 200 miles away....ouch! So, in the meantime we will have to wait a couple of weeks till we can take to where we bought the trailer. I called my dealer and am waiting for a call back. Stay tuned for more more updates. 🙄
 
It was simple. After I drained the the under belly, I could then hear the drip. So follow the dripping patter on the under belly, it lines up in the vicinity of the toilet. Crawling underneath reminded me of when I joined the U.S.M.C. 50 years ago.😆
 

Bozo

Well-known member
It was simple. After I drained the the under belly, I could then hear the drip. So follow the dripping patter on the under belly, it lines up in the vicinity of the toilet. Crawling underneath reminded me of when I joined the U.S.M.C. 50 years ago.😆
warranty issue or not, it is up to you to prevent further damage by shutting off source. Does that unit employ a water distribution manifold? Should be able to isolate there. As far as blue compass, good luck. My dealings with them were so bad that I’ll never buy so much as toilet paper from them. Don’t shoot the messenger here, but I probably would do some exploring and fix myself and document the hell out of it. But I am a master plumber/hvac/r guy. If leak is under floor, sounds like maybe an errant fastener punctured line possibly or possibly froze and split. The lines in my new unit were ran/marked wrong for the rear toilet in my toy hauler. I just relabeled that one. Had leaks at the manifolds, tightened myself, toilet connection, same thing. I know we buy new so as not to have to worry, but with rv’s, no such thing. And thank you for serving.
 
Thanks for the comeback. So far I just fill the fresh water tank and use the pump, only when needed

I will be contacting Alliance on Monday and hear what they have to sat about this.
 

Oregon_Camper

Forum Moderator
Staff member
It was simple. After I drained the the under belly, I could then hear the drip. So follow the dripping patter on the under belly, it lines up in the vicinity of the toilet. Crawling underneath reminded me of when I joined the U.S.M.C. 50 years ago.😆
I would not rule out the fact that where you hear water isn't the actual leak. Water could be leaking from the sink...then run down the water line, until the PEX line turns upward. This could easily be 5-10 feet away from where you hear the water drops. Then again...it could be right there. I would take the time to drop 2 of the underbelly fastners and peek up there to see what is really going on. Could be a simple connector that needs to be hand tightened a bit more.
 
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I would not rule out the fact that where you hear water isn't the actual leak. Water could be leaking from the sink...then run down the water line, until the PEX line turns upward. This could easily be 5-10 feet away from where you hear the water drops. Then again...it could be right there. I would take the time to drop 2 of the underbelly fastners and peak up there to see what is really going on. Could be a simple connector that needs to be hand tightened a bit more.
You are correct on removing the fastners and take a peek. I have rivets on the frame. Guess what...I have rivets at home. I have with all sorts of tools but, rivets are at home.
Come on by tomorrow. I'll buy lunch.
 

Oregon_Camper

Forum Moderator
Staff member
You are correct on removing the fastners and take a peek. I have rivets on the frame. Guess what...I have rivets at home. I have with all sorts of tools but, rivets are at home.
Come on by tomorrow. I'll buy lunch.
I would...but currently down in San Jose del Cabo.

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Jim Beletti

Owner Experience Liaison
Staff member
You are correct on removing the fastners and take a peek. I have rivets on the frame. Guess what...I have rivets at home. I have with all sorts of tools but, rivets are at home.
Come on by tomorrow. I'll buy lunch.
The rivet head you see are actually driven coil nails. If desired, the way to remove them is:
1. Remove the little plastic ring from them (screwdriver)
2 Using a small impact driver with a 1/4” driver / socket, loosen the nail (breaking the friction fit)
3. Using a large flat blade screwdriver, place it between the coroplast (underbelly material) and the frame flange, then run the impact driver to spins the nail backwards while prying down with the screwdriver.

It sounds complicated but it’s not at all. I just wanted to be thorough in my explanation.

When putting the coroplast back up, you will use a TEK screw and a fender washer This is a 1” length screw with a drill point and a hex head. You’ll drive/screw it into the same hole the nail occupied, using the impact driver with a driver / socket matching the hex head TEK screw.

Edit: Impact Driver on the left in this pic of a Drill / Driver combo.

IMG_6381.jpeg
 
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Oregon_Camper

Forum Moderator
Staff member
Thanks Jim. I just don't have readily available impact driver and replacement nails. Leak unfortunately will have to be until I get home to tackle this.
Amazon will deliver you a new Dewalt Impact Driver to St. Helens. Then you'll always have one in the RV for future needs. :D:p:cool:;)
 

CornCrib

Well-known member
May not apply to your situation, but it may.
Helped a friend with a Delta last fall who had a water leak from the coroplast. We focused on the area of the leak, but couldn't find it. Started looking everywhere and found a small leak from below the kitchen sink supply, drip running down the pex to a location quite a bit away where it then dripped into the underbelly. Fixed the leak under the sink (replace cracked plastic pex fitting with brass). Problem solved. Bottom line: Origin of leak was far from where it was first observed. Took about an hour to find and 10 minutes to fix.
 

Jim Beletti

Owner Experience Liaison
Staff member
This is not that relevant to the OPs matter, but I'd like to add something I learned about coroplast after 20 years of dealing with it, or at least the coroplast on my Delta. The Coro part of the word stands for corrugated and the plast stands for plastic. As in corrugated cardboard that we're all used to, the type we use in the RV industry are actually open cells. Same with most coroplast types.

Water can get into the open cell edges of the coroplast. When I was resecuring my underbelly a week ago, I was getting water dripping on me and the floor. I looked and felt all over and found no water coming from above. It was coming out of the outer edges of the long sides of the material. It smelled musty too like it had been there a very long time.

That said, this water won't be able to get to anything or cause any harm. It doesn't bother me to the point that I feel the need to seal the edges.
 

CornCrib

Well-known member
This is not that relevant to the OPs matter, but I'd like to add something I learned about coroplast after 20 years of dealing with it, or at least the coroplast on my Delta. The Coro part of the word stands for corrugated and the plast stands for plastic. As in corrugated cardboard that we're all used to, the type we use in the RV industry are actually open cells. Same with most coroplast types.

Water can get into the open cell edges of the coroplast. When I was resecuring my underbelly a week ago, I was getting water dripping on me and the floor. I looked and felt all over and found no water coming from above. It was coming out of the outer edges of the long sides of the material. It smelled musty too like it had been there a very long time.

That said, this water won't be able to get to anything or cause any harm. It doesn't bother me to the point that I feel the need to seal the edges.
Never even considered that.......
 
Okay folks the leaking is fixed. It turns out to be but a loose water line that is connected to the hot water valve at the shower.

Thanks to Alliance's Carter Cantrell as well as "RV Complete". So, now we can continue on our journey. 👍
 

Oregon_Camper

Forum Moderator
Staff member
Okay folks the leaking is fixed. It turns out to be but a loose water line that is connected to the hot water valve at the shower.

Thanks to Alliance's Carter Cantrell as well as "RV Complete". So, now we can continue on our journey. 👍
glad it is fixed!! Can you tell us how the repair was done? Any pictures taken as the leak was getting fixed?
 
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