fridge not working while traveling

[jepalmer]

Avenue 32RLS, Furrion FCR16DCASA refrigerator
on our last trip, on 2 of the 4 legs the fridge stopping working during travel. Based on the food in the fridge and freezer, it probably stopped working early on.
we used our standard shore power to truck hookup sequence, but I didn't check to see if fridge was working before leaving.

suggestions on troubleshooting would be appreciated.

thanks.

 

[BryanValRox]

Avenue 32RLS, Furrion FCR16DCASA refrigerator
on our last trip, on 2 of the 4 legs the fridge stopping working during travel. Based on the food in the fridge and freezer, it probably stopped working early on.
we used our standard shore power to truck hookup sequence, but I didn't check to see if fridge was working before leaving.

suggestions on troubleshooting would be appreciated.

thanks.

Any chance your battery or battery’s in your coach might need service? If it works ok when hooked to shore power, the converter is likely doing the work to keep it running. But during travel, it would be relying on the coach battery and any charge sources, like the truck or Solar if equipped.

 

[Oregon_Camper]

Agree with Bryan. In addition, the power from truck to RV, won't be enough to run the frig. With RV unplugged from all power...at night (if you have solar)...test the battery voltage and let us know.

 

[Socal-Paul]

I believe your refer will shut down if the battery voltage drops too low. Your refer is larger than ours that said just to let you know we have not had a your problem while traveling. We have just the standard solar package. You might also check the seals on the refer if you have any leaks it might be running more.

 

[Midnight Rider]

Get a wireless frig thermometer. I keep the device reader in my cab while traveling and can see what temperatures are doing at all times. When stopped I just stick it on the fridge as it has magnets, and I know how fridge is cooling at all times. If fridge goes out you will know instantly. Even has temp alarms you can set. Link attached below. Made by acurite.works great!!!

https://www.amazon.com/AcuRite-Refrigerator-Thermometer-Temperature-Customizable/dp/B07XD68GX6?pd_rd_w=nR8nP&content-id=amzn1.sym.4af096b2-fb5d-43d2-a23c-ac48118349a2&pf_rd_p=4af096b2-fb5d-43d2-a23c-ac48118349a2&pf_rd_r=G5M18MJCWAXXXDQPXVKT&pd_rd_wg=peGEK&pd_rd_r=b13b86a2-bb8f-4fa5-9b51-5b8bb854b555&pd_rd_i=B07XD68GX6&psc=1&ref_=pd_basp_d_rpt_ba_s_1_t

 

[Long Islander]

What is the condition and size of your battery? I looked up your frig on line and it draws 11 Amps at 12 volts so if your battery isn't in good shape I can see your frig not staying on very long. Keep in mind that if you've got a basic lead acid battery that you can only discharge it half way. Meaning if you have a 100AH lead acid battery that you should only discharge it half way or 50AH. Going further than that damages the battery and each time you do that you lose capacity. We mistakenly killed the lead acid battery on our first trailer so many times that it was essentially worthless. A hard lesson to learn. Lets say that you have a healthy 100AH battery, it will only last 4 of 5 hours before the voltage drops and your frig shuts its self down. Now if your battery is compromised like our original trailer battery was, it might only run your frig for 15-20 minutes. We got rid of our lead acid battery and installed two 100AH lithium batteries. You can draw down Lithium batteries really far and the internal Battery Management System (BMS) will prevent you from harming it.

 

[jepalmer]

Thank you all for your help.
It seems like my steps should be:
1) check battery, and if it's ok
2) check voltage from the truck to battery.

Will do when the rain in NC stops

 

[BryanValRox]

Thank you all for your help.
It seems like my steps should be:
1) check battery, and if it's ok
2) check voltage from the truck to battery.

Will do when the rain in NC stops

Also, if you have solar , don’t forget to ensure the disconnect is on and the system is providing a charge to the battery.

 

[jepalmer]

first attempt:

time	touch pad	Rover	VOM
10:00 AM​	shore power on
	13.5	13.6	13.4
10:00 AM​	shore power off
10:20 AM​	12.8	12.9	12.7
12:50 PM​	12.7	12.8	12.6
next day
8:00 AM​	12.1	12.1	12.0

then I had a senior moment and forgot about it. Reconnected shore power and recharged battery.
Just unhooked shore power today and will monitor more closely.

Two odd items:
Now the lights on the dimmer switches don't work.
And the Rover has only the bottom half of the LCD image showing. Panel shows top three LED indicators as solid white.

Will keep you apprised of this discharge test.

 

[DanNJanice]

first attempt:

time	touch pad	Rover	VOM
10:00 AM​	shore power on
	13.5	13.6	13.4
10:00 AM​	shore power off
10:20 AM​	12.8	12.9	12.7
12:50 PM​	12.7	12.8	12.6
next day
8:00 AM​	12.1	12.1	12.0

then I had a senior moment and forgot about it. Reconnected shore power and recharged battery.
Just unhooked shore power today and will monitor more closely.

Two odd items:
Now the lights on the dimmer switches don't work.
And the Rover has only the bottom half of the LCD image showing. Panel shows top three LED indicators as solid white.

Will keep you apprised of this discharge test.

It looks to me like you are getting no charge from solar. Possible causes:
1) No sun or partially shaded - Solar panels need full sun to work well. Even part of a panel in shade will cause them not to charge.
2) No voltage from panels - Check solar input at rover under full sun. This should be pretty high, depending on the panel. 18-35Volts
3) No voltage from Rover - Check rover output under full sun at the rover and at the batteries. They should match. 13-15 Volts

 

[Coacher]

Old guy comment based on forty years of trailer experience. Moving a power hungry appliance from a source that we have in abundance (propane) to one that is heavily used plus is more difficult to store and refill (electric), seems like a giant step backwards. But they are cheaper

 

[BryanValRox]

first attempt:

time	touch pad	Rover	VOM
10:00 AM​	shore power on
	13.5	13.6	13.4
10:00 AM​	shore power off
10:20 AM​	12.8	12.9	12.7
12:50 PM​	12.7	12.8	12.6
next day
8:00 AM​	12.1	12.1	12.0

then I had a senior moment and forgot about it. Reconnected shore power and recharged battery.
Just unhooked shore power today and will monitor more closely.

Two odd items:
Now the lights on the dimmer switches don't work.
And the Rover has only the bottom half of the LCD image showing. Panel shows top three LED indicators as solid white.

Will keep you apprised of this discharge test.

Have you checked for blown fuses on the lights with the dimmer switches?
Separately,
If you solar controller only has one half of the LCD showing, something is definitely wrong with at least the display.
I would also agree with DanNJanice that your solar input seem to be missing. If you have decent sun on the panels and the system is working properly, you should be seeing voltages between 13 and14+ Output without shorepower hooked up depending on the mode that it is in.
You can check the input and outputs at the controller with a meter given your display isn’t functioning correctly.
Also I would recommend you check your controller settings to ensure that they match your battery type . While likely not the root of your issues, I just wanted to make you aware that they are adjustable to match battery type.
Any chance you could post a picture of your display?