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Broken Bristol Gate Valve

Hotrodjohn

Well-known member
Broken cable operated gate valve on kitchen Gray tank on our 2023 340RL. It’s a Bristol valve. The rod folded up 90 degrees trying to close it. I feel like the cable operated valves would work better if the cable wasn’t 8’ long. I cant just fix the actuator rod because it’s a Bristol. I have to remove the Corplast to access the valves. Do I just replace with Valtera cable operated valves or do I put in electric valves from Valtera of Drainmaster or retrofit the Bristol valves with the electric auto drain system? I really have no interest in doing any of this and the unit was one year old last September. Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks
 

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Jim Beletti

Well-known member
The solution that's the easiest to do and the most cost efficient is to replace the cable with the same. You should be able to order this from Alliance.

Electric gate valves are nice. Installation can be quite involved and of course, involves removing the underbelly to expose the OEM valves at the tanks.
 

Hotrodjohn

Well-known member
Thanks Jim. I have the bristol valves so the underbelly has to be removed. I am going to use the Valtera electric valve that has the same bolt pattern and hope there is room for the electric motor where the stock Bristol is located. Your system looked phenomenal and I am capable just not wanting to go that far lol
 

Jim Beletti

Well-known member
Thanks Jim. I have the bristol valves so the underbelly has to be removed. I am going to use the Valtera electric valve that has the same bolt pattern and hope there is room for the electric motor where the stock Bristol is located. Your system looked phenomenal and I am capable just not wanting to go that far lol
Understood. My project was quite involved as I not only wanted to go with electric valves but wanted to put them where I wanted them and not at the take outlet. This allowed me to clock my valves at 12 o'clock for best operation.

Wishing you all the best on your installation.
 

Bozo

Well-known member
My previous 5 er had the electric valves and let me tell you, they were very unreliable. The valves must be oriented properly for the least problems, which manufacturer of trailer didn’t follow. I got tired of pulling underbelly panels to fix and converted to manually operated valves. I religiously lube cables now, as well.
 

Bozo

Well-known member
If I recall, valves are to be oriented at the 10 & 2 position. In other words, the gate should be in an upward orientation. On my daydreamer, the fixed hubs on tanks had them mounted horizontally.There was no room to orient properly. They tend to stick if not oriented correctly. The install instructions are available to review on the manufacturer website. After may times of pulling underbelly panels to “fix”, I finally gave up and did manual valves. The electrics were great, when they worked…….and then they weren’t. Be educated and make an informed decision. For the long cables, simply tieing them up and supporting them will alleviate the tendency to flex and not close fully. I also use a manual valve on my sewer dump outlet as an added measure of safety against any unwanted black water baths.
 

Bozo

Well-known member
If you follow Jim’s lead and have room to get away from the tank outlet and mount the electrics properly, that would be best if you are sold on electrics.
 

Bozo

Well-known member
Is there a specific procedure for lubricating/maintaining the cables?
Personally, I give mine a good dowsing with any dry lube. I do this when they are pulled to the open position and work a few times. If old cables, I have used regular chain and cable lube. Cable lube gets into the tiniest of spaces. A spot of petroleum jelly right behind the handle will keep any foreign material out. I do this at start and end of season minimum.
 

spike3888

New member
I have a valor 41v16 and the exact thing happened to me. Always was the harder one to open and close of the 3. Closing it about 4 months ago and bent it to a 90 in the open position. Tried to straighten it to close the valve and snapped off. Opened the belly pan yesterday and disconnect the cable so I could close the valve for now. Thankfully for reasons unknown to me there was squares made of the belly pan material stuck up in the area where I thought the valve would be so I peeled off the square and no hole so I made one.The valve was right under where the square was stuck onto the belly pan. Thanks Alliance. Thinking about switching to electric. Anyone had experience with the conversion?
 

Midnight Rider

Well-known member
Y
Thanks Jim. I have the bristol valves so the underbelly has to be removed. I am going to use the Valtera electric valve that has the same bolt pattern and hope there is room for the electric motor where the stock Bristol is located. Your system looked phenomenal and I am capable just not wanting to go that far lol
Your Capable!
You are Hot Rod Jon For crying out loud!
I have seen the stuff you have done, it’s incredible!
I wish you where my neighbor, I could learn all kinds of stuff?
 
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