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Battery Tray Question

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exps01

Active member
We just swapped out our AGM batteries from the dealer for a lithium battery from Big Beard Battery. I noticed a crack in the plastic battery tray that recesses into the floor in the front storage area. Not sure when it happened as I haven't messed with the batteries to this point since we only got the trailer a few months ago. I also plan on adding a couple additional batteries in the future. Just seeing what others did. Did you expand/replace the original battery tray? It currently will hold one of the BB batteries with some extra space but won't hold two. I'd also like to switch out to something that's not plastic, especially since it appears to be cracking. I thought about emailing Alliance to look at a replacement, but since I want to expand with additional batteries (probably at least 2) in the future, that doesn't really make sense to me long term. I Was thinking of just removing the plastic tub and placing a sheet of metal over the hole making the floor flush. Just wondering what others have done, especially with expanded battery banks. Thanks!

Edit: The battery is the 12V, dimensions 14.25” L x 7.5” w x 11.5” H
 
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exps01

Active member
Ya, it certainly doesn't inspire confidence. The general consensus on the Alliance FB page is to cover it up with a piece of plywood or metal and forget it. That's what I think I'm gonna do. Shouldn't have the battery drop out of it at least!
 
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7ACMike

Well-known member
Replaced with the correct size box i built that also covered the hole. 4 screws up from the bottom and sprayed some can underecoat over the bottom side to seal it up. Functions and looks good is my thought. Good luck, 7ACMike
 

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Midnight Rider

Midnight Rider

Prominent Member
was there an
exps01 said:
We just swapped out our AGM batteries from the dealer for a lithium battery from Big Beard Battery. I noticed a crack in the plastic battery tray that recesses into the floor in the front storage area. Not sure when it happened as I haven't messed with the batteries to this point since we only got the trailer a few months ago. I also plan on adding a couple additional batteries in the future. Just seeing what others did. Did you expand/replace the original battery tray? It currently will hold one of the BB batteries with some extra space but won't hold two. I'd also like to switch out to something that's not plastic, especially since it appears to be cracking. I thought about emailing Alliance to look at a replacement, but since I want to expand with additional batteries (probably at least 2) in the future, that doesn't really make sense to me long term. I Was thinking of just removing the plastic tub and placing a sheet of metal over the hole making the floor flush. Just wondering what others have done, especially with expanded battery banks. Thanks!

Edit: The battery is the 12V, dimensions 14.25” L x 7.5” w x 11.5” H
Click to expand...
Anything else to know when swopping out batteries? I was unsure if I could just drop in lithium batteries and call it good?
I have two lead acid in my 295MK and when they time out I was wanting to replace with lithium.
thanks
 
Oregon_Camper

Oregon_Camper

Forum Admin
Staff member
Midnight Rider said:
was there an

Anything else to know when swopping out batteries? I was unsure if I could just drop in lithium batteries and call it good?
I have two lead acid in my 295MK and when they time out I was wanting to replace with lithium.
thanks
Click to expand...
You will need to slip the tiny tiny tiny switch on the converter, into the Lithium profile.

Then of note, once you change to lithium, your 4 LED battery gauge is worthless. Lithium will hold a higher voltage down to about 10% of battery remaining. You will see 4 LED showing 100% charge, until it is waaaay too late. You need to install a battery shunt, which will show you the exact battery level and the amount of amps coming in & out of the battery.

The Victron shunt is by far the gold standard. Install will take about 20 mins.

https://amzn.to/3WbUyfw
 
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exps01

Active member
Oregon_Camper said:
You will need to slip the tiny tiny tiny switch on the converter, into the Lithium profile.

Then of note, once you change to lithium, your 4 LED battery gauge is worthless. Lithium will hold a higher voltage down to about 10% of battery remaining. You will see 4 LED showing 100% charge, until it is waaaay too late. You need to install a battery shunt, which will show you the exact battery level and the amount of amps coming in & out of the battery.

The Victron shunt is by far the gold standard. Install will take about 20 mins.

https://amzn.to/3WbUyfw
Click to expand...
To add onto Jim’s comment, if you have solar, you’ll also need to change the solar controller settings to LI as well. That way, it’ll charge to the 14.2 V instead of 13.8v and fully charge the battery since lithium has a higher voltage than lead acid. Same thing for the converter on the distribution panel.
 
Gord&Cindy

Gord&Cindy

Active member
You may also want to look into a DC-DC charge controller for the charge line from your truck. I installed a 20 amp version in our 295MK because I was not sure how the truck would react to the battery. It works fine, but it might have worked fine without it.
 
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exps01

Active member
Gord&Cindy said:
You may also want to look into a DC-DC charge controller for the charge line from your truck. I installed a 20 amp version in our 295MK because I was not sure how the truck would react to the battery. It works fine, but it might have worked fine without it.
Click to expand...
I've seen a fair number of opinions that if you have solar, the dc-to-dc charger is unnecessary as it can charge the batteries as good if not better than a dc-to-dc. That obviously is dependent on the solar setup. I had thought about a dc-to-dc but with the solar I think I should be ok without (Though I did notice my 310RL is pre-wired for a dc-to-dc charger).
 
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exps01

Active member
Oregon_Camper said:
How so? What would make it prewired? 6 guage wires (+/-) from front storage to pin box?
Click to expand...
I noticed a wire marked “dc-to-dc prep” in the front storage bay on the ceiling. I had no idea it was there and didn’t investigate further. I’m assuming it runs up to the junction box on the hitch. Hadn’t really dived in to look further due to time, but was going to look a little more later. I can take a picture when I get the coach from storage for a trip in a couple days.
 
BryanValRox

BryanValRox

Elite Member
exps01 said:
I noticed a wire marked “dc-to-dc prep” in the front storage bay on the ceiling. I had no idea it was there and didn’t investigate further. I’m assuming it runs up to the junction box on the hitch. Hadn’t really dived in to look further due to time, but was going to look a little more later. I can take a picture when I get the coach from storage for a trip in a couple days.
Click to expand...
Hi folks, my guess is that this is a smaller gauge wire and is the trigger wire that would activate the DC-DC if equipped.
We happen to have one installed on our unit. The wire was landed on the marker light post of the 7 pin trailer cord box.
If you don’t have a DC-DC, I would ensure the end is capped off or insulated with electrical tape. Or disconnect it from within the 7 pin box to prevent a short.

I also forget to mention, if it is a larger gauge wire, it could be the positive wire that could connect from the charging post in the 7 pin and would supply the DC-DC input side with power from the truck. Same comment would apply for insulating it.
 
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kmac7800

Active member
Not sure about posting links, however "TyresOnTheRoad" YT channel has a couple of videos on his battery box upgrade. He has an Avenue, and is also lucky to have a friend who works in metal, and they had a metal box created big enough for 2 lithium based batteries that he surrounded with what looked like 2" foam insulation panels. I was very jealous (although I do not run lithium batteries) as it looked very clean and nice.

Good luck and have fun!

//KMac
 
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